Technical Timing belt and water pump change

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Technical Timing belt and water pump change

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Jan 16, 2020
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Do I need to support the engine to get the timing belt covers off?
Can I do this on the drive?
Should I replace the cam oil seal at the same time?
 

lowaaa

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Jun 17, 2020
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You don't need to support the engine,
You can do it on a drive.
It's not needed, but you can if you want.
 

lowaaa

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Not when I worked on it, is yours a 1.2 v8 or v16? if it's a v16, then I don't know, maybe.. but when I changed it on the v8, all I did was remove the driver side wheel, remove the plastic wheel arch, and then proceeded to remove the plastic which was covering the timing belt. You could I guess take the engine mount to lower it down but honestly I had enough space to work on it.

I believe if you go through my profile you'll find a post of a problem I was having previously with the missing white marks on the timing belt.
You'll have to work from the engine bay and under the drive side wheel.
 
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Not when I worked on it, is yours a 1.2 v8 or v16? if it's a v16, then I don't know, maybe.. but when I changed it on the v8, all I did was remove the driver side wheel, remove the plastic wheel arch, and then proceeded to remove the plastic which was covering the timing belt. You could I guess take the engine mount to lower it down but honestly I had enough space to work on it.

I believe if you go through my profile you'll find a post of a problem I was having previously with the missing white marks on the timing belt.
You'll have to work from the engine bay and under the drive side wheel.
So the plastic cover comes off without undoing the engine mount?
How do you turn the cogs to line up the marks top dead centre?
 

lowaaa

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Messages
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The crank pulley bolt is not an item you use on the engine, it's something that's already there.

Search around on google for an identical copy of the fiat punto you have of a crank pulley. Once you've found an identical of yours, you can go to your car and there should be the same thing with a bolt in the middle of it. BEFORE SPINNING IT, LINE IT UP WITH A MARKER AGAINST THE BACKPLATE, this is so you know where it was originally. You spin that bolt and it turns. This is what you turn to line up.

As you may have the 8v, you can't kill your engine if you improperly position it. Follow the thread on my profile and the people there explain it quite well.

If you didn't mark the position prior, the crank pulley for me was (in terms of a clock) was at 1PM in order for the engine to turn over once you've put everything back together, may differ on yours but i don't know 🤷
 
OP
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M
Joined
Jan 16, 2020
Messages
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The crank pulley bolt is not an item you use on the engine, it's something that's already there.

Search around on google for an identical copy of the fiat punto you have of a crank pulley. Once you've found an identical of yours, you can go to your car and there should be the same thing with a bolt in the middle of it. BEFORE SPINNING IT, LINE IT UP WITH A MARKER AGAINST THE BACKPLATE, this is so you know where it was originally. You spin that bolt and it turns. This is what you turn to line up.

As you may have the 8v, you can't kill your engine if you improperly position it. Follow the thread on my profile and the people there explain it quite well.

If you didn't mark the position prior, the crank pulley for me was (in terms of a clock) was at 1PM in order for the engine to turn over once you've put everything back together, may differ on yours but i don't know 🤷
Thank you. I've found the bolt head and watched wheeler dealers enough to get by.
Is it good practice to replace the tensioning pulley at the same time?
 

lowaaa

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Messages
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Thank you. I've found the bolt head and watched wheeler dealers enough to get by.
Is it good practice to replace the tensioning pulley at the same time?
It really depends on the condition of your tensioning pulley, mine was fine.. however, you can't buy the belt without the tensioning pulley (from what I had found) so I replaced it anyway.

Just know that it's a pain to get back into place, you definitely need the tool. If you don't have the tool, a screwdriver helps push it from the engine, but make sure you put a rag to prevent it scratching anything.

:)
 
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It really depends on the condition of your tensioning pulley, mine was fine.. however, you can't buy the belt without the tensioning pulley (from what I had found) so I replaced it anyway.

Just know that it's a pain to get back into place, you definitely need the tool. If you don't have the tool, a screwdriver helps push it from the engine, but make sure you put a rag to prevent it scratching anything.

:)
second that for it being a total pain without the correct tool. I did it a few times with a fish hook remover. which is like a screwdriver with a v notch at the end. And usually i was losing a bit of flesh each time as well.

I finally got the correct tools
 
OP
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second that for it being a total pain without the correct tool. I did it a few times with a fish hook remover. which is like a screwdriver with a v notch at the end. And usually i was losing a bit of flesh each time as well.

I finally got the correct tools
Let's hope it's bloody alright!
 
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Let's hope it's bloody alright!
One tip if you dont have the correct tools for the tensioner is to lever the engine away from the side of the car so you can get for example large very good quality circlip pliers on the two round holes of the tensioner. and then you can use the side of the car to hold the circlip pliers into the tensioner holes. The tensioner spring is very powerful and it is not obvious how it works to create the tension on the belt. You cannot just mess around with the tensioner and press on the belt. A strong force is needed on those two holes in the tensioner to rotate that center block of metal before tightening the tensioner nut.
 
OP
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One tip if you dont have the correct tools for the tensioner is to lever the engine away from the side of the car so you can get for example large very good quality circlip pliers on the two round holes of the tensioner. and then you can use the side of the car to hold the circlip pliers into the tensioner holes. The tensioner spring is very powerful and it is not obvious how it works to create the tension on the belt. You cannot just mess around with the tensioner and press on the belt. A strong force is needed on those two holes in the tensioner to rotate that center block of metal before tightening the tensioner nut.
Thanks muchly
I hope the old one is in good nick!
Don't fancy lifting engines!
I'll take on most things (like replacing a torque sensor in the steering column) but lifting an engine with just the car jack and a bag of spanners is a bit beyond me 😂
 
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Thanks muchly
I hope the old one is in good nick!
Don't fancy lifting engines!
I'll take on most things (like replacing a torque sensor in the steering column) but lifting an engine with just the car jack and a bag of spanners is a bit beyond me 😂
it is a simple job to support that end of the engine if you do have to take that mount off - even if you are working out on the road. If you raise the car in the usual way for the front wheel the engine comes up and you just put something under the sump and lower the car onto it.
 
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