General Thermostat Replacement

[Adam1984]

So I need to get a new Thermostat for my Panda 1.2 (2015 Petrol)

What brand would you recommend to go for, and what's the differences am seeing between certain ones, some are just the thermostat but then others provide a band and a sensor too, what's the difference? And better to get the sensor ones?

Thanks.

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

What brand washing up liquid, or petrol, or lettuce varieties do you buy? Car parts are, generally all pretty similar (and several ‘brands’ actually made in the same factory before being put in a branded box). It really shouldn’t matter. And normally doesn’t matter. Whatever you can get - especially if you buy from a motor parts supplier (eg Halfords or EuroCarParts, or - as we’ve said a few times now, Shop4Parts.co.uk who are a dedicated Fiat and Alfa parts specialist. Just avoid anything via Amazon and you’ll be just fine.
As to which one… let the shop look it up for you by cross referencing your number plate. That will identify the specific model (and even show the VIN number) to be sure to get the right one. (Shop4Parts are especially good at this)

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

what does the engine temperature gauge show while driving? It should sit at the halfway point after a few minutes of driving. If you sit stationary in traffic it will rise a little, but then you should hear the radiator fan turn on. Do you get that happening?

 

[Adam1984]

what does the engine temperature gauge show while driving? It should sit at the halfway point after a few minutes of driving. If you sit stationary in traffic it will rise a little, but then you should hear the radiator fan turn on. Do you get that happening?

Whilst driving the temp gauge is 4 bars.. I don't hear the fan come on.

But with heater on too, the air is not even hot, just warm.

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

This is the unit you need…

Thermostat & Housing 55202371

www.shop4parts.co.uk

 

[Adam1984]

This is the unit you need…

Thermostat & Housing 55202371

www.shop4parts.co.uk

Thank you.

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

Whilst driving the temp gauge is 4 bars.. I don't hear the fan come on.

But with heater on too, the air is not even hot, just warm.

Is the coolant level ok? Is there an air bubble in the heater pipes (If you open the bleed screw does air or water come out? )
If the gauge reaches 4 bars that suggests it’s about right - basically the middle of the gauge.

 

[Adam1984]

Is the coolant level ok? Is there an air bubble in the heater pipes (If you open the bleed screw does air or water come out? )
If the gauge reaches 4 bars that suggests it’s about right - basically the middle of the gauge.

I could ask my mechanic to check this before he fits the parts, and then I could send back if not needed

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

I could ask my mechanic to check this before he fits the parts, and then I could send back if not needed

i would ask them to check before buying anything. Also, I’d let the mechanic buy the parts - you wouldn’t take your own fish into a chippy, or your own beer into a bar (would you?). Professional mechanics get trade discounts on buying the parts, and are more likely to order the right part first time round.

 

[Adam1984]

I could ask my mechanic to check this before he fits the parts, and then I could send back if not needed

When took the car for a good run down the motorway for half hour, constant speed of 70mph, engine temp never got any higher than 79 degrees when using MES. But gauge was stuck at 4 bars.

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

On the motorway, the air blowing across the radiator is coming in at 70mph too, so will really cool things down (especially if the weather’s cool). Sitting in a traffic jam, where no air blows past (until the fan comes on) the car will get much hotter…. The thermostat opens at 88C. With the car parked with the engine running you (or your mechanic) should feel the point where the stat opens and the flow is diverted into the radiator (it’s a simple, basic test that needs no computers - just a thermometer and your hand on the right hose). Then, left a bit longer, you should hear the fan start. This is basic car fixing… and if the mechanic doesn’t know this trick…

 

[rmjbn1]

There's a simple test you can do if you suspect your thermostat has failed:
Start car from cold
Hold the top hose between radiator and stat

If the underside of this hose starts getting warm within 2 minutes, this confirms stat has failed

The reason for this is our stats fail when a rubber seal disintegrates, allowing warm water to flow past it

When this happens the coolant never reaches operating temperature, and the temp gauge will sit below half

 

[rmjbn1]

I’d let the mechanic buy the parts

+1
If you're getting a mechanic to replace routine maintenance parts, there's nothing to be gained by sourcing the parts yourself

I've only ever done this in the past with fancy upgraded parts like a stainless exhaust system

 

[Mike1alike]

His thermostat is definitely broken. Driving the car ~5 km and ~ 20 mins. should get the engine on working temperature. 30 mins. driving should have got it to working temperature. It doesn't matter the cold air blowing across radiator while running 70 mph, that's the thermostat's job, to close in that situation. The needle gauge should be bang in the middle and move down no more than first line below for a couple of seconds if you drive faster. Because good thermostat closes and temperature stays within working range.

 

[jrkitching]

what's the differences am seeing between certain ones, some are just the thermostat but then others provide a band and a sensor too, what's the difference? And better to get the sensor ones

The ones without the sensor are for an earlier version of the 1.2 engine.

They're completely different parts, you need to buy the one that's the correct part for your car.

The ones with a sensor are the correct ones for a 2015 model. There are basically two versions of this type; ones with a plastic hose stub, and ones with a metal stub. The material used in the plastic degrades with heat and time, and often fails; the metal ones don't fail this way. So get one with a metal stub if you can.

 

[Adam1984]

The ones without the sensor are for an earlier version of the 1.2 engine.

They're completely different parts, you need to buy the one that's the correct part for your car.

The ones with a sensor are the correct ones for a 2015 model. There are basically two versions of this type; ones with a plastic hose stub, and ones with a metal stub. The material used in the plastic degrades with heat and time, and often fails; the metal ones don't fail this way. So get one with a metal stub if you can.

I ended up getting this one ...

 

[jrkitching]

I ended up getting this one ...

That looks like a good one, with the metal stub.

If you're feeling adventurous, you could fit this yourself. It's one of the easier jobs on the car, and we'll help you every step of the way if you want to have a go.

If you work carefully, in addition to not having to pay a labour charge, you could also potentially save yourself the cost of new coolant.

 

[Adam1984]

That looks like a good one, with the metal stub.

If you're feeling adventurous, you could fit this yourself. It's one of the easier jobs on the car, and we'll help you every step of the way if you want to have a go.

Well my friend mechanic said he will do, along with the coolant, and also change the front brake pads and discs for me, all for £50

 

[jrkitching]

Well my friend mechanic said he will do, along with the coolant, and also change the front brake pads and discs for me, all for £50

They're all straightforward jobs, but that's still a cracking good deal!

 

[Adam1984]

That's a good deal!

Regarding coolant, I ordered the Comma one, see below, but then seen this better one G12+, but it's pink!! Would the Holts one still be good and compatible with my car?