The tap that wont turn off...

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The tap that wont turn off...

lambontheflag

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My mrs has just gone to run the bath and the hot tap wont turn off...

I went to turn it off and pulled the handle off, so it's still on.

Any ideas how to make it stop now?
 
My mrs has just gone to run the bath and the hot tap wont turn off...

I went to turn it off and pulled the handle off, so it's still on.

Any ideas how to make it stop now?

Depends if its a direct or indirect hot water system.

if its direct, locate your stopcock and turn it off there. water should stop within 5minutes.

if its indirect, locate your stopcock and turn it off. because you will have a storage tank then it will take around 10 - 30minutes to drain, dependent on how full the tank is....

or look under the bath for a stopcock. or get your pliers out.

or Cork it?? :confused:
 
^^^THIS Grainge16 I O U bigtime!¬

I reckon the mrs would have beeen well unimpressed if I had been unable to stop that

Seriously thanks guys thankyou so much:D
 
turn the water off at the stop cock. if its a combi boiler you have, itll stop quickly, then use the mole grips to turn the shaft, itll be easier with no water.

if you have a water tank you'll have to let that empty first after turning off the stop cock.

when tap off, turn the stop cock back on and buy a new tap tomorrow! (or as you live with a woman, new taps for bath, shower, sink.......)
 
Turn water off at the house supply. Don't try to force the broken tap shut as probably the jumper has jammed and force will just make it worse. Fill a kettle and bowl for tomorrow morning.

If you cant DIY, get a plumber because if the tap top blows off it will seriously flood the house/flat and the insurance might refuse to pay if its not been done professionally.
 
Plumber or DiY, every tap in the house should have a corresponding shut-off valve in the pipework leading up to it.
They only cost a couple of quid & can save a lot of time and effort later on.
Aside from shutting off the rising main as it comes into the house, I can isolate every tap. I can also shut off the main to the cold tank in the loft as well as turning off the water as it exits the tank (same with the heating 'jockey' tank). I also put valves on the pipes just before they enter the hot tank and as they leave the tank. It's a bit OTT but it means I can work on any part of the system without having to wander around the house turning water off elsewhere.
Same with the central heating system, I can isolate any radiator whilst the system continues to run so I can replace a rad, trv or lockshield valve without losing too much water.
 
why we don't have them is due to the restriction on pipes.
atmo, we have a busted shower valve thingy so the pressure is high, combined with a boiler that seems to want to pump (it don't have a pump on it)
 
Inline valves are ok if there is adequate pressure but they give another chance for leaks and the brass type often corrode or get scaled so either leak when used or refuse to open and/or shut off properly. The plastic types from Hep20 or Polypipe are the most reliable and are a simple push fit (neater and I believe better than JG fittings).

Modern plastics dont scale up and they dont go brittle like old de-zinced brass can do and have a design life of 50 years. But they are quite long and the pipes have to be pulled apart to fit the valves. Its not always possible without building or joinery work.

Rented properties however need earth bonding for the bathroom radiators. When plastic isolators are used, the (UK) rules demand a separate earth wire to bypass the plastic valves. But if the whole pipe system is plastic the earth can be omitted.

(I used to be a plumber)
 
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