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Seicento The New Uno Turbo 1.4 Seicento :D

Introduction

Well thanks for reading so far... haha...


As a few of you may know, I've had and done a good few seicento conversions in the past and was intending to do my mk2 c20xe (Vauxhall 2ltr) but this time around converting it to turbo (low boost).... Anyhow... As with most things in life, circumstances changed and buying a house took over, so this project sadly seen the bin!

The house took up a massive part of the year, as it needed fully renovating to bring it up to scratch, including rewiring, plastering new kitchen and so fourth... Due to me being self employed as an electrician/plumber, I ended up taking 3 months off work and doing the lot myself....

3 months later it went from this....

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To this....

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We got the keys originally in January this year, and now things have changed yet again as we have just accepted an offer on the house, and currently going through the sale process for it lol!!

However it now means the house we have put an offer on is much newer, requires hardly any work and the best bit.... I finally have a GARAGE :D This is a first for me as im usually found outside in the rain and snow working on my cars....

So now you know why I have been soo quiet, and why my last project was thrown to one side!!

Anyhow, onto the car!! Ive been secretly waiting for my old 1.4 seicento turbo to come back online for sale, always joking that if it did then I would buy it to strip into parts as it had a fortune 'apparently' spent on it (think upwards of 18k)....

Very recently, I had a text off todger, with an ebay item number :p Thinking nothing of it i searched the number, and to my surprise the 1.4 seicento was on there for sale haha!! I rang todger and talked through whether or not it would be worthwhile to buy back, and we ended up making an offer to the guy for £650....

As the car had a gearbox problem (solidly stuck in gear), it needed to be trailered upto me from Kent to Warwickshire for the grand sum of £135....

Anyhow, it arrived, and to be fair I had forgot how bad it looked.... what an eyesore..

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As much as it looked bad when I owned it the last time, it has got progressively worse!... Its well known on the forum as a bit of a sl*g car due to the amount of owners it has had in its life....

It was apparently built by Wardy25 and his friend, with wardy paying for most of the work. From what I gather, there was a dispute of some sort between the two, and the car was never fully finished.. As you can see it wasn't mint, but it never used to look quite so bad...

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No idea how its got into the state that its in now lol, but its time for me to change that!!

The original car is way too gone to save, and to be fair as I point out later, the engine conversion itself hasn't originally been carried out too great... Such things as the main engine mount being welded to the thin bay metalwork, and not to anything structural resulting in the mount passing through the bodywork... How was this repaired?... with the aid of exhaust rubbers mashed in-between the body and engine supporting it in place lol.

Ive started stripping the car down.... and NOT to my surprise I've found loads of reasons why this car has never actually ran properly lol..

The engine bay... Upon inspection at this point, things just look messy, but nothing screams out at you...

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Then its time to uncover the electrics... (ignoring that the badly positioned stainless boost pipe work is arching out on the broken HT leads)..

All this lot was hidden in a plastic box in the engine bay....

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There are exposed connections all over the place in the engine loom, for example the coil... Soldiered, practically all pins touching...

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Relays

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Dizzy slam panel mod... (as you can see the boost pipe runs across the HT leads, and with the friction it has worn through two leads creating obvious problems).

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And then onto my favourite... The engine mounts....

With this beauty, it seems to have been welded to a single skin part of the car which has no under support as far as I can tell... The mount looks to have given way (well at least ripped the metal work apart)... and then fixed with perished exhaust rubbers... Im guessing by the look of the half width cambelt, the engine has dropped while running...

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We then have this other 'custom' mount on the gearbox side.... (there is one to the rear, but I haven't got a pic yet... I will however as that's a beauty too)...

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Other than the fact the wirings bad, the mounts are awful, its an eyesore, and the car is stuck in gear.. I think ive got a bargain... *rolls eyes*

The car is currently in this state, and im removing the salvageable parts off, to reclaim some money back and then put towards the rebuild & reshell...

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I'm intending to...

*Fully strip the engine and rebuild
*Buy a replacement gearbox, or recondition the one I have
*Re-shell into a better donor car
*Run the engine on Megasquirt
*Fit Coilovers to the new shell
*Install Full Poly Bush Kit
*UT Brake Upgrade
*Re design the engine mounts!!

I think the above is going to work out a fair bit, however I have openly admitted this car had a lot of problems in the past, so I am hoping to resolve these in the next shell to make it a more drivable car rather than something that's only good In a straight line.

The engine is due a rebuild (and apparently was in 2008), although after seeing how bad its been put together (wondering where the 18k was spent), I sadly don't believe a thing about the car and will be starting again from scratch!!!

The house move is due around November time, so I will be carrying out the bulk of the conversion then, although little bits will be done between now and then :p
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And this is where Mega Squirt gets messy. I've always found the documentation extremely confusing. Even though the system is highly adaptable and good value, making changes has always seemed like a full on electronics project to me. The advantage of the non open source type ECU's is nearly all adaptations can be made through software and changing a few external cables. Then of course you need to tuck this thing up somewhere away from any vibrations and moisture (as stupidly with a lot of big name aftermarkets). The car environment is harsh, a potted unit which you could dip in the sea and not damage would far more suit our expectations. :D

These things are a labour of love, hopefully some one who has loved one before can give you some help, or perhaps the MS forum.

If I had enough time to read that and pull out some hair, I'd be busy using it working on my own machine which is in desperate need of attention.

How much are these kits incidently? I'm assuming you made a good saving?

Anyhow, best of luck I'm sure you'll get your head round it after a bit more research. Success always tastes better when you work for it. (y)

The MS2v3 cost around £260 with a loom and serial cable... Then any extras are just cheap bits like transistors, wire etc... There is a cheaper ms1 and a new ms3 now though... I went with ms2 as there is a lot more info on it (so I thought haha)

For the money I don't think anything else is similar, however its a lot of messing about by the looks of it...


arc jumps to mind as someone who know quite a bit about MS, not on here alot anymore though... and wasn't craigb244 white turbo cinq run off MS too..?

Cheers blu :D


Haha... you cheat!! although them pictures have really helped me on my ICV set up as I wasn't sure if I needed to link out a resistor.... I linked it out the other night, and now after seeing yours it looks like I was right to... so I owe you virtual pixel pint :D
 
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Well im excited.... Another order of megasquirt bits...

1 x JimStim v1.5 MegaSquirt Stimulator w/ Wheel Simulator -Unassembled
1 x Jumper 10-Pack
2 x Bosch BIP373 Coil Driver Mod Kit
1 x GM Open Element IAT Sensor with Connector
1 x GM Closed Element CLT / IAT Sensor with Connector

All coming to a total of £108.16 (+ around £20 customs).... Which is great as the jimstim on its own in the uk Fully Assembled is £145.00 + shipping + VAT or unassembled £115.00 + shipping + VAT

So ££££'s in :D

I thought it would be best to buy something to test out my MS as it will be a while until the uno engine is ready, and to be fair id rather not test the MS on an engine with hard to source parts...

The jumper I was on about... not the woolly kind.... (R39) for the Vauxhall 2 pin bosch ICV

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The paperwork doesn't mention R39 other than to keep to one side when originally installing the resistors... However there is a picture of the resistor fitted, and after a good few hours spent on the net It looked like I could just jumper the r39 out... later confirmed by arc's pic (thank you)

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Testing the voltages 5v/12v.... all correct so far (touch wood)...

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The only other bonus is ive sourced a pair of Apex rear lowering springs from a nice cento sport member.... so the MOT might be a tad easier haha... in the meantime im trying to find a larger bar to re-roll the arches.... Only due to having fat friends.... (no fingers being pointed at you todger.... honest *cough*)
 
Right.... Wont be an update for a few weeks as im off on holiday...

However not without some more much needed money spent...

http://www.strongflex.eu/en/fiat-ci...-suspension-bush-kit-full-complete-sport.html

£129.09 worth of little rubbery bits haha... Cheers todger... Although the revenge is your fitting them (but there's a KFC in it for u lol!!).....

Went on his advice with the yellow harder versions, as I wanted to actually feel like I had spent some money on something...

Now just trying to work out if there is an easy way of installing a rear anti roll bar? (I thought there was a guide on here to fit an MG one, although I could be confusing that with another forum)....

Think im pretty much sorted now, UT front brakes, coilovers, polyflex... Will make top and bottom ARB's at the front, and then for the rear... well im not too sure :p
 
there is a few in build threads, don't think there is a how to anywhere.. The kerr family has done it a few times (j333evo or foxyemx will be thread starters). craigb244's white cinq has a rear arb setup, think the_black_box has one too. I'm yet to have a gander at one in the flesh myself.
 
Went on his advice with the yellow harder versions, as I wanted to actually feel like I had spent some money on something...

Enjoy the piles they give you. :D

I find the red ones just about perfect for road use, anything harder would be seriously annoying for a daily ride. Even the red ones are too hard for engine mounts, but I guess that won't be an issue here...
 
there is a few in build threads, don't think there is a how to anywhere.. The kerr family has done it a few times (j333evo or foxyemx will be thread starters). craigb244's white cinq has a rear arb setup, think the_black_box has one too. I'm yet to have a gander at one in the flesh myself.

Will have a dig around the build threads and see what I can find :D

J333EVO welded an MG ARB together. Some pics in the race car build thread. Or there are the Polish style ones which run through the rear beam (probably easier to do as you can just go out and buy some bar).

The polish ones sound ideal, don't suppose you may have any links?

Enjoy the piles they give you. :D

I find the red ones just about perfect for road use, anything harder would be seriously annoying for a daily ride. Even the red ones are too hard for engine mounts, but I guess that won't be an issue here...

Hmm well at least it gives me a new experience to look forward to as im yet to have piles haha....

To be honest it will be a daily driver in the sense of its my car, but for most of the day il be using my workvan...

As for engine mounts, il be going down the route of custom, and PU modified mounts haha :D
 
I'd not have worried about the Stim personally. I used to have one, but you don't really need it. Also you can get ignition drivers from RS for a few ££ each.

Looks like you're getting your head around the MS now. It's not hard at all, just takes a bit of reading and research :)

I have a yellow engine mount unused if u need one....possibly a gearbox one as well.

Happy hols :)
 
For the rear arb definately suggest one that goes through the beam should be a lot easier to make and setup it does look like it has something that sits inside the beam from the image above. J33evo covered the arb work pretty well in one of his threads. Mine is a lesser spec using what I had around its documented on the first page of my thread there was some talk of making a white line arb for a lupo fit but no one has tried. But it's such a worthwhile mod mine handles pretty flat I might once its back on the road removed the front roll bar to see the effect

Cracking thread btw. That megasquirt bewilders me. Never thought I'd say this about a cento but thank god that yellow sei is being broken up seen it for sale countless times how many owners has it had now?
 
chop chop, less of the holidaying thank-you please.

Haha... I'm Back!!

Well I've arrived back in the UK from Florida... and although I didn't bring back a suntan (no rain, but too busy in all the theme parks)... I did bring back a few gifts for the sei!

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Courtesy of Walmart, I picked up a Meguiar's Paint restoring kit (UK price about £40) and USA price $23 so about £15.33 lol... This should hopefully bring up the cars original colour (not that its that bad) and remove the obvious debadged paintwork on the boot...

I then picked up a brand new amp (I know unbranded) however its 2x75w RMS and cost me $34.99 so £23.33 brand new... I couldn't get a pants second hand amp in the UK for similar money... This is to power some rear 6x9s as the current set up of a pair of 4" Kenwood speakers in the dash is awful...

I bought some Meguiar's plastic cleaner, just because it was cheap as chips and good for the interior plastics, and also some cotton candy magic trees (obviously an American scent... smells soo good though!)

Then the world famous 'once a year car polish'... Ive heard it does last a full year (or 52 mechanical carwashes) beading and protecting the paint, however the shine is not as good/deep as other products.. Ive bought this mainly for wheels, to protect them from the road dirt, as im sure a few coats of this should make alloy cleaning SUPER easy...

Think the NU polish and the plastic cleaner were about $7 each (so about £4.60ish)... Its like asda value car polish prices for good brands! I was tempted in the zymol products they had cheap, but I wanted room in the suitcase to bring back a load of new clothing haha.

While I was away, my parents took receipt of some other much needed supplies for the Sei...

In the way of a new replacement low chassis jack (warranty as the last one broke mid use)

The new poly bush kit for the suspension (front, rear and ARB bushes, in the pile inducing yellow material)

And also my JIM STIM kit, along with megasquirt engine temp sensor & air intake sensor... I opted to buy these rather than use originals as they are quite important engine sensors, and wanted to be sure they are correct as they have a big factor in fuelling (plus I know the resistance values of these haha)..

The customs on the diy-autotune stuff came in at just over £30....GRR!! But its here now, that's all that matters.

I've also now got a pair of 'uncut' rear apex lowering springs haha... these are for the MOT, and will probably stay on if they are a close to the same height... I wont be shopping these ones down :p

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Im looking forward to seeing what the bushes actually do... although for the money I paid, I was a little disappointed when I saw the kit... Not that there is anything wrong with it at all, it just looks like nothing for the money!

Il now be buying a brand new pair of front wishbones to install my bushes to (as there's no point using my current ones as the balljoints will be old)
 
I sold an Mr2 Prothane kit about 6 months ago for peanuts I never got round to fitting. :eek:

But back to road use.... I'd take soft Poly or rubber over the hard stuff. If it was meant to be rock hard, the rubber wouldn't be there. Either remove it it slightly improve it in my book. I''ve split the yellow by hand....
 
I threw away my full set of yellow Strongflex bushes and replaced them with Powerflex. No more annoying squeaks and fitting was far easier. The inserts are stainless steel.
 
All the European polybush stuff seems overpriced when you compare it with American stuff. I got a complete set for the MR2 for about £120 (that's everything but the engine mounts and strut top mounts), and that was from a UK importer, rather than direct.

Wish I thought about a US supplier prior to going as I bet it would have cost pennies in comparison to this polski kit

I sold an Mr2 Prothane kit about 6 months ago for peanuts I never got round to fitting. :eek:

But back to road use.... I'd take soft Poly or rubber over the hard stuff. If it was meant to be rock hard, the rubber wouldn't be there. Either remove it it slightly improve it in my book. I''ve split the yellow by hand....

Depends how strong your hands are I guess lol... I know what you mean, but I might as well have just bought brand new standard bushes all round if I wanted flex.

I threw away my full set of yellow Strongflex bushes and replaced them with Powerflex. No more annoying squeaks and fitting was far easier. The inserts are stainless steel.

Why would you have changed from Strongflex to Powerflex? Its basically the same material just branded differently or am I missing something?


On the up side... you could have all had your stupid little fiat brake down on you today thanks to a crappy satanic clutch cable....

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Todger offered to help... but decided that the car was too low to gain access underneath to make the clutch cable fitting easier.. It was a pattern part for the price of £11... we tried by the roadside to repair it, only to realise after removing the old cable, the pattern part has a different angle on the metal bit which bolts to the metal work.. this became a nightmare to install.... so the method from there was 3 miles driving with no clutch haha...

Ignition off... into 1st, on the starter and accelerate away... few rev matched gear changes and I was off... Realised its much harder to rev-match down the gears tho..

Todgers ass-crack for anyone interested...

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Its currently at home feeling sorry for itself, so I need to get fixing it 1st thing as its my only mode of transport for both work & pleasure... damn thing!

Also come to realise... My anti roll bar is fully sat on my chassis after the drop.... so the suspension needs to go up a little... boo hoo :( (its something I cant really sort out with a hammer).... although I guess I could loose the ARB, but its probably best to keep :(
 
Why would you have changed from Strongflex to Powerflex? Its basically the same material just branded differently or am I missing something?

Think what'll happen to those plated steel crush tubes (which are effectively bearing surfaces) after a UK winter. My inclination is that Powerflex are probably better quality (but you may know someone with a lathe and/or som stainless tubing..........


On the up side... you could have all had your stupid little fiat brake down on you today thanks to a crappy satanic clutch cable....

Twill almost certainly be the clutch. Wonder if they sold you an 899 cable?

Bummer, anyway.
 
Think what'll happen to those plated steel crush tubes (which are effectively bearing surfaces) after a UK winter. My inclination is that Powerflex are probably better quality (but you may know someone with a lathe and/or som stainless tubing..........




Twill almost certainly be the clutch. Wonder if they sold you an 899 cable?

Bummer, anyway.

Yea the clutch could be on its way out, although looking at the cable that came off, it didn't look like it was adjusted tooo much... Although the car only needs to last a month or two, so il slip it everywhere if needs be hehe :D

As for the bushes, I didn't think about that... The metal sleeves don't look any different to some powerflex ones I had on an XE Vauxhall a few years back. They do however come with a 2 year guarantee for all products, so time will tell... I suppose the tubing can easily be replaced down the line as you say :)

As for the squeaks.... isn't that what lithium grease was made for?... haha :p
 
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