Technical Tailgates of panda active and panda dynamic

[parky71]

Hi i'm actually new to the site, i normally join a car forum to do with what ever car i have at that moment in time
as i am an ex mechanic and tend to do most stuff myself on my own cars.
Basically i'm wondering if anybody can help us. i'm trying to eye up a tailgate for a 2010 panda active. i found a chap online with one in the same colour as mine.
his is a 2004 panda dynamic. now we have swapped photos and we both agree , it does seem the same car body wise. does any body know if the tailgates are the same for these cars.
The guy is a few hours drive away and i just wanted to make 100% its correct.

 

[porta]

Hi i'm actually new to the site, i normally join a car forum to do with what ever car i have at that moment in time
as i am an ex mechanic and tend to do most stuff myself on my own cars.
Basically i'm wondering if anybody can help us. i'm trying to eye up a tailgate for a 2010 panda active. i found a chap online with one in the same colour as mine.
his is a 2004 panda dynamic. now we have swapped photos and we both agree , it does seem the same car body wise. does any body know if the tailgates are the same for these cars.
The guy is a few hours drive away and i just wanted to make 100% its correct.

Post the photos on here…important bit is to make sure all the wiring is the same, I put a dynamic tailgate on my old cross and had to swap all the internals…unfortunately I also had to run the wiring as the scrappers cut it off with no slack and it’s a major PITA job

 

[parky71]

Post the photos on here…important bit is to make sure all the wiring is the same, I put a dynamic tailgate on my old cross and had to swap all the internals…unfortunately I also had to run the wiring as the scrappers cut it off with no slack and it’s a major PITA job

thanks for getting back porta. i had to transfer my photos to my pc as i didn't have them on this device before.

first 2 are the the 2010 active and the 3rd is the 2004 dynamic.
i know the dynamic has the roof bars but thats the only major difference i see.
we exchanged dash pictures too and they was 100 % the same.
i'm sure the dynamic is the same as the active apart from a few different extras and bits & pieces elsewhere.
but body wise the same. from 2004-2010 models? then from 2011 the mk4 came?

 

[porta]

thanks for getting back porta. i had to transfer my photos to my pc as i didn't have them on this device before.

first 2 are the the 2010 active and the 3rd is the 2004 dynamic.
i know the dynamic has the roof bars but thats the only major difference i see.
we exchanged dash pictures too and they was 100 % the same.
i'm sure the dynamic is the same as the active apart from a few different extras and bits & pieces elsewhere.
but body wise the same. from 2004-2010 models? then from 2011 the mk4 came?

Yup, they’re the same hatch, just beware the wiring, if it’s cut too close to hatch, it’s a nightmare that means using your current’in hatch’ wiring, which means a nightmare getting it out and a bigger nightmare getting it back in. If you’re lucky, it will be all the wiring that goes down the roof and c/d post…if I’m in the barn tomorrow I’ll photo spaghetti junction, it ain’t pretty

 

[The Panda Nut]

Yes the main possible difference is the central locking is one doesnt have this. Fiddling wires through the tailgate is not much fun...

 

[parky71]

Yup, they’re the same hatch, just beware the wiring, if it’s cut too close to hatch, it’s a nightmare that means using your current’in hatch’ wiring, which means a nightmare getting it out and a bigger nightmare getting it back in. If you’re lucky, it will be all the wiring that goes down the roof and c/d post…if I’m in the barn tomorrow I’ll photo spaghetti junction, it ain’t pretty

hey thanks for that. i'm not too bad with wires to be fair but good tip about the length, i see what you mean thinking about it. i know a good local auto electrician. a mate of a mate sort of thing. so if the **** its hits the fan, i will see him. haha

 

[parky71]

Yes the main possible difference is the central locking is one doesnt have this. Fiddling wires through the tailgate is not much fun...

thanks for the input. i know my boot is just a key open one. so that should eliminate any problems with that.

 

[porta]

It’s not the electrics that’s the PITA it’s the routing them through the tailgate…good luck

 

[koalar]

The metal and glass are the same

All the hardware is different between cars with remote locking and those that don't , even though they look the same

I fitted a none remote hatch to a car that did. Had to swap all the hardware over to be able to lock the car. You might be able to get away without swapping anything the other way round


The colour of the hatch is on barcode stuck to the outer edge. If its anything like the blue there's several slightly different versions. I didn't match mine so had two different blues, didn't look too bad,


I took all the wires out of my old hatch tied them to the wires left in the new hatch and pulled them into place.


I spent 5 years putting in network cabling so planning and feeding cables isn't a problem. It does take some planning and thinking about. There some 90 degree bend and some areas there's not much space. You need to do these first. You can pull string through first with the wire gone it give a little extra room

It wasn't a quick job

There's no break in the wiring loom to the rear hatch

You can cut and join, as far as I remember the wire colours were identical,, it would be much quicker

 

[porta]

The metal and glass are the same

All the hardware is different between cars with remote locking and those that don't , even though they look the same

I fitted a none remote hatch to a car that did. Had to swap all the hardware over to be able to lock the car. You might be able to get away without swapping anything the other way round


The colour of the hatch is on barcode stuck to the outer edge. If its anything like the blue there's several slightly different versions. I didn't match mine so had two different blues, didn't look too bad,


I took all the wires out of my old hatch tied them to the wires left in the new hatch and pulled them into place.


I spent 5 years putting in network cabling so planning and feeding cables isn't a problem. It does take some planning and thinking about. There some 90 degree bend and some areas there's not much space. You need to do these first. You can pull string through first with the wire gone it give a little extra room

It wasn't a quick job

There's no break in the wiring loom to the rear hatch

You can cut and join, as far as I remember the wire colours were identical,, it would be much quicker

Just one note of caution, if you’re going to wrap the loom, before pulling through hatch, ensure you use VERY flexible insulation tape…anything stiff will not make it round the bends
Also, I soldered the wires together before pulling through, as the taped/tied ends kept slipping out

 

[parky71]

The metal and glass are the same

All the hardware is different between cars with remote locking and those that don't , even though they look the same

I fitted a none remote hatch to a car that did. Had to swap all the hardware over to be able to lock the car. You might be able to get away without swapping anything the other way round


The colour of the hatch is on barcode stuck to the outer edge. If its anything like the blue there's several slightly different versions. I didn't match mine so had two different blues, didn't look too bad,


I took all the wires out of my old hatch tied them to the wires left in the new hatch and pulled them into place.


I spent 5 years putting in network cabling so planning and feeding cables isn't a problem. It does take some planning and thinking about. There some 90 degree bend and some areas there's not much space. You need to do these first. You can pull string through first with the wire gone it give a little extra room

It wasn't a quick job

There's no break in the wiring loom to the rear hatch

You can cut and join, as far as I remember the wire colours were identical,, it would be much quicker

thanks for the few tips. it all helps. appreciated

 

[parky71]

Just one note of caution, if you’re going to wrap the loom, before pulling through hatch, ensure you use VERY flexible insulation tape…anything stiff will not make it round the bends
Also, I soldered the wires together before pulling through, as the taped/tied ends kept slipping out

thanks for that. sounds another good tip from someone who has had the nightmare.

 

[DaveMcT]

Make sure the wires in the "new" hatch have not got pulled inside. Tie and tape the loom end from your old hatch onto the new hatch wires and CAREFULLY pull them through. That should get them in with minimal effort. If you can fish out a cut off wire or if its just too short tie a nylon cord to the wire and pull it out of the door taking the cord with it. You can the use the cord to pull you original loom into the door. If you are really smart pull in 2 cords so one can be left in place just in case its ever needed.

Connector ends can get snagged, but the terminals should pop out with the correct tool. Obviously take pictures first.

 

[parky71]

thanks for that. i will be coming back to all these notes when the time comes to do it.