sub and amp
- Thread starter emily_sei
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sub and amp
emily_sei said:
ok so money isnt the issue, but what do you want, do you want nice and simple to improve the overall sound quality, or do you want lound n dirty bass that shakes as much as possible within a 10 mile radius?
do you want some boot space left available of dont you care? what other speakers are you runing, standard or uprated? what kind of plans do you have for the rest of the system? what kind of music do you listen to?
sorry, alot of questions i know, but all valid and will help narrow the choices as money being no object could get very silly expencive (granted id have it all if i could afford it)
right front speakers are standard and broken! but uprating them to pioneer crossovers had rear speakers put in parcel shelf which are mutant x 6"x9" 3 way speakers want lots of bass dont need boot so not bothered about space listen to loads of music RnB, Dance, 80's
firstly, whatever it says about watts is meaningless unless it is watts RMS. you cant compare other figures. my sub is 400w RMS but 1600 watts "max". i could find another sub that is 1600w max, but only 250w RMS. there's a big difference but both would say "1600 watts" in big writing on the front. that means nothing.
to decide what to get you need to know what your long term plans are.
if (like most people) you intend to stick some 2 or 3 way 6x9s in the back and some 2 or 3 way speakers in the front, and power them all from the stereo, then you dont need much bass. a simple 100w RMS 10" sub in a small enclosed box would be best, and an amp giving less than 100w RMS. then you'll have plenty of bass and still be able to use your boot. as always, good quality gear is better than cheap stuff that claims to be twice as good.
if you intend to leave the original speakers in (stongly advise you dont on most cars) then you wont need much bass. any old sub and amp will probably be more than enough to drown out the original speakers. a cheapy sub in a box with any old amp will do well enough in this type of situation, lots of epolpe do it, but i cant see the point.
if you have plans to fit decent components front and rear and power them from an amp, you'll need a good bit of bass to balance the system out. in that case you want a 'mono' amp and a sub with at least 400w RMS, a twin voice coil sub if possible, and a large ported box. this will give stong wide bass, but it isnt as tight or as accurate as having a smaller enclosed box. it depends on your preferences. i'd go with a 1ohm stable setup like this if i had long term plans to create a great system.
to decide what to get you need to know what your long term plans are.
if (like most people) you intend to stick some 2 or 3 way 6x9s in the back and some 2 or 3 way speakers in the front, and power them all from the stereo, then you dont need much bass. a simple 100w RMS 10" sub in a small enclosed box would be best, and an amp giving less than 100w RMS. then you'll have plenty of bass and still be able to use your boot. as always, good quality gear is better than cheap stuff that claims to be twice as good.
if you intend to leave the original speakers in (stongly advise you dont on most cars) then you wont need much bass. any old sub and amp will probably be more than enough to drown out the original speakers. a cheapy sub in a box with any old amp will do well enough in this type of situation, lots of epolpe do it, but i cant see the point.
if you have plans to fit decent components front and rear and power them from an amp, you'll need a good bit of bass to balance the system out. in that case you want a 'mono' amp and a sub with at least 400w RMS, a twin voice coil sub if possible, and a large ported box. this will give stong wide bass, but it isnt as tight or as accurate as having a smaller enclosed box. it depends on your preferences. i'd go with a 1ohm stable setup like this if i had long term plans to create a great system.
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jug said:
The VC config does not affect how a sub sounds.
Saying a large ported box doesn't mean much, there's a good number of subs which don't perform at all well in anything but sealed. It all depends on the TS parameters.
And while running at 1ohm does mean a good chunk of power is available, it isnt the be all and end all of SQ.
well it doesnt really matter about budget nothing too expensive (not into the thousands anyway) but decent like i heard jl audio is good i already have a 10" sub box because ex boyfriend blew up sub and amp i had before!so like you said just a 10" sub would be a good idea
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emily_sei said:
What sub box is it? If its one bought from a shop, IMO just use it as a door stop - you can do so much better. If it's custom built, then tell us the internal volume of the box.
So how much would you be willing to spend? I can't do anything constructive until I got a figure to work to. £500? £750?
yer i heard genesis is good! so you think i should get rid of the sub box and have it custom built my friend can do it for me and only got to get materials! any pictures of boot builds because i would have no idea where to start
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emily_sei said:
Well, you need a sub first before you know how big the enclosure has to be
Physically building a solid straightforward MDF box is well, straightforward - it's when you want to custom fit it into a spare whell well or over the wheelarch where you start getting more complicated 
