Technical Still getting stuck in gear 😭😭😭

[jrkitching]

I will try without taking the battery out first, but I only have baby ramps, so idk it will work out.

No ramps needed; you do it from above, by feel. Removing the airbox helps.

I'll see if I can find one of my old posts which might help you.

Found it - here it is. Have a close look at the first two pictures. The battery is still in position.

 

[rmjbn1]

im not sure how to force it in, like force it to where? Australia?

I guess tomorrow I will try and change the master, and leave the pipes alone, and do them another day when im 100% theyre the right bits.

Heehee, yep all I can find suggests it's a force fit...
...but also that perhaps the pipes need to be in position first before connecting?
Which sounds hard to me.

I've seen a lot of references to that hydraulic QD connector being a common failure, but mine's 21 years old and it's fine, and the one on your car looks dry. I understand that if they do fail, they leak.

I think you're right to put the new master on the old pipe for now, that's what I'd do in this situation.

Fingers toes knees and ears crossed for you

 

[sherbsville]

No ramps needed; you do it from above, by feel. Removing the airbox helps.

I'll see if I can find one of my old posts which might help you.

Found it - here it is. Have a close look at the first two pictures. The battery is still in position.

ooooh omg thats amazing! ooooh tysm! im excited now!

just gotta hope theres a break in the rain, if not, itll have to be tomorrow.

i gotta do aldi, lidl, AND big tesco later, so pray for my clutch pls! (nowhere has everything. *cries in gluten free*)

 

[sherbsville]

I've seen a lot of references to that hydraulic QD connector being a common failure, but mine's 21 years old and it's fine, and the one on your car looks dry. I understand that if they do fail, they leak.

ty. yeah, ive seen alot of those too, on youtube. I'm now thinking, as its dry, to just leave it alone. As its gonna be some massive faff getting them together. I wouldve liked it to be all new, but im still suss one is the wrong end.

looks like rain mightve stopped play today anyway.

 

[rmjbn1]

I've never touched the connector, sorry, I can't help much

I'm looking on the yootoob to see what I can find.

@DaveMcT have you connected one of these clutch qd joints, please?

Should this nylon collar not be on the male part?
View attachment 469852

@bugsymike @Pugglt Auld Jock Sorry chaps to call on you again...
...but do you have any tips on assembling the two parts of a new clutch hydraulic QD connector, please?
OP has new slave and new master cylinder, but the two halves of new pipe won't connect.

 

[bugsymike]

@bugsymike @Pugglt Auld Jock Sorry chaps to call on you again...
...but do you have any tips on assembling the two parts of a new clutch hydraulic QD connector, please?
OP has new slave and new master cylinder, but the two halves of new pipe won't connect.

Not one I have ever had to do, but my guess is it works on the lobster pot principle, so possible if nylon/plastic seal is inserted in the female part if there is an integral groove for the outer part of the seal to sit in and then once male is pushed in hydraulic pressure would seal it when in use.
So the smaller end would go in first allowing the wider part to locate in "hopefully" a groove, so when male is pushed in all the way it would be sealed in to place.
Note. this is only my guess.

 

[John202020]

Should this nylon collar not be on the male part?
View attachment 469852

yes, it shouldn't be off, it will help align it, however its mostly there to help in removal/separating as it pushes the fingers in.
I really don't recommend pushing together until on the car as even my brand new set up was quite hard to click together and possibly even harder to get apart, I found out the hard way when I routed the pipe the wrong side of another pipe on the car and had to remove it all in one piece

 

[jrkitching]

I'd be tempted to just cut both off close to the connector and use a suitably sized hydraulic line fitting.

 

[sherbsville]

close to crying. been at this almost 3 hours. my back started to go at the start, but i had to do it today. so that keeps spasming.

couldnt get bolts and stuff off. finally did, now im stuck. i had to take the battery out to bleed, no way could i get my hand past all the pipes (thinking different set up?) good news, that only took 8 mins, so nailed it. back was v unhappy lifting battery tho.

anyway, 2 things im stuck on, no matter what i do.

1. how do i get the clutch pedal back into the ball joint holder thing? is there any easy way?

2. omg i cant get the lid off the new clutch fluid resevoir. like its welded or somat.

pls help, thankyou so much!

ok i got the lid off using those th8ngs that maynor not be called mol grips, with a towel round the lid.

but all im getting is air. its not turning into clutch fluid? ive been using a syringe, as i dont have the ball joint back on. ive pulled the syringe, like 30 times now. 60 ml.

edit: 4 and a half hours, im done. i can only walk bent over, and a few steps at a time. im exhausted ive had to give up.

havent been able to bleed clutch fluid thru,or get the balljoint back on.

 

[sherbsville]

yes, it shouldn't be off, it will help align it, however its mostly there to help in removal/separating as it pushes the fingers in.
I really don't recommend pushing together until on the car as even my brand new set up was quite hard to click together and possibly even harder to get apart, I found out the hard way when I routed the pipe the wrong side of another pipe on the car and had to remove it all in one piece

oh no.that sucks. thankyou.

i defo have the right bits tho? one bits quite alot smaller than the other bit.

 

[sherbsville]

Not one I have ever had to do, but my guess is it works on the lobster pot principle, so possible if nylon/plastic seal is inserted in the female part if there is an integral groove for the outer part of the seal to sit in and then once male is pushed in hydraulic pressure would seal it when in use.
So the smaller end would go in first allowing the wider part to locate in "hopefully" a groove, so when male is pushed in all the way it would be sealed in to place.
Note. this is only my guess.

oooooh, ok tysm! that makes sense.

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

@bugsymike @Pugglt Auld Jock Sorry chaps to call on you again...
...but do you have any tips on assembling the two parts of a new clutch hydraulic QD connector, please?
OP has new slave and new master cylinder, but the two halves of new pipe won't connect.

always just left these alone and fitted new cylinders to the end of existing pipes - luckily never come across a pipe that needed changed.

If I had to do an old one on the vehicle, this appeals greatly:

 

[sherbsville]

always just left these alone and fitted new cylinders to the end of existing pipes - luckily never come across a pipe that needed changed.

If I had to do an old one on the vehicle, this appeals greatly:

oooh thats great,ty. ive left the pipes on for now. but im stuck.

idk how to get the balljoint back together. also, ive been out here trying to bleed it since my last post, and all im getting is air. the fluid doesnt go down atall.

ive checked where i put the new pipe, pulled it apart and put it back together again. am i missing something obvious, on both counts pls? thankyou

 

[bugsymike]

always just left these alone and fitted new cylinders to the end of existing pipes - luckily never come across a pipe that needed changed.

If I had to do an old one on the vehicle, this appeals greatly:

I like that repair joint fitting especially with the inserts. Re the bleeding, try removing the bleeder altogether and just topping up the reservoir as the fluid flows out along with the air hopefully, it works for me on many hard ones.
Apart from needing a sharper Stanley knife a good job.
Totally different original fitting from what I thought, but having looked at it I can see the way it operates when it was new.

 

[rmjbn1]

Thank you all
OK I would leave the old pipes alone for now.
Maybe if you need to in future fit a different connector as suggested by jrk & jock above. Lucky ol Sherbs loves plumbing I seem to recall

I'm not sure I understand what you're doing with the syringe.

I think you need it all reassembled and bleed it through the slave

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

oooh thats great,ty. ive left the pipes on for now. but im stuck.

idk how to get the balljoint back together. also, ive been out here trying to bleed it since my last post, and all im getting is air. the fluid doesnt go down atall.

ive checked where i put the new pipe, pulled it apart and put it back together again. am i missing something obvious, on both counts pls? thankyou

We couldn't get the clutch bled on my boy's Punto after fitting a new slave and master cylinder. Took it in to Kenny's garage and he stuck the power bleeder on it and it was all done in less than 5 minutes. I guess that what's happening is the air pocket in the fluid is "shuttling" back and forward in the pipe as you try to bleed with the pedal, whereas the constant flow the power bleeder supplies just pushes it right through.
I've had some success with ones like this by pumping the pedal two or three times with the bleed nipple closed and then holding the pedal down while the nipple is opened - watch out because the fluid jets out pretty strongly. The, with the pedal still down, close the nipple and let the pedal back up. Repeat several times. Don't delay after closing the nipple and letting the pedal up before pumping a few times - two or three pumps works well - and holding it down again to cut down on the time the air bubble has to rise back up the pipe.

A similar procedure sometimes works well on brakes but remember that the brake pedal doesn't really go more than half way down in normal use do you need a block under the pedal to stop it pushing the piston and seals into a part of the cylinder where it normally doesn't go - to avoid possibly damaging the seals on a part of the cylinder wall where corrosion or debris may be waiting. The clutch pedal goes full stroke in use so doesn't have this potential problem.

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

I like that repair joint fitting especially with the inserts. Re the bleeding, try removing the bleeder altogether and just topping up the reservoir as the fluid flows out along with the air hopefully, it works for me on many hard ones.
Apart from needing a sharper Stanley knife a good job.
Totally different original fitting from what I thought, but having looked at it I can see the way it operates when it was new.

Aye, last thing you want to do it try taking an old one of these apart!

 

[sherbsville]

I like that repair joint fitting especially with the inserts. Re the bleeding, try removing the bleeder altogether and just topping up the reservoir as the fluid flows out along with the air hopefully, it works for me on many hard ones.
Apart from needing a sharper Stanley knife a good job.
Totally different original fitting from what I thought, but having looked at it I can see the way it operates when it was new.

oooh ok, ty. will try tomorrow.

 

[sherbsville]

Thank you all
OK I would leave the old pipes alone for now.
Maybe if you need to in future fit a different connector as suggested by jrk & jock above. Lucky ol Sherbs loves plumbing I seem to recall

I'm not sure I understand what you're doing with the syringe.

I think you need it all reassembled and bleed it through the slave

ty for gathering help.

im bleeding thru the slave,but using a syringe instead of the rubbish bleed kit, that didnt work. it worked fine last time. Ive ordred a new tube off amazon, thatll get here tomorrow. Hoping itll be a better seal, incase thats the issue.

I cant push the pedal, as ive been unable to get the balljoint joint back together. idk what to do tbh. tried allsorts of tools. was hoping thered be an easy way i dont know, but. uuuurgh.

Proper into plumbing now, ure right!

 

[sherbsville]

We couldn't get the clutch bled on my boy's Punto after fitting a new slave and master cylinder. Took it in to Kenny's garage and he stuck the power bleeder on it and it was all done in less than 5 minutes. I guess that what's happening is the air pocket in the fluid is "shuttling" back and forward in the pipe as you try to bleed with the pedal, whereas the constant flow the power bleeder supplies just pushes it right through.
I've had some success with ones like this by pumping the pedal two or three times with the bleed nipple closed and then holding the pedal down while the nipple is opened - watch out because the fluid jets out pretty strongly. The, with the pedal still down, close the nipple and let the pedal back up. Repeat several times. Don't delay after closing the nipple and letting the pedal up before pumping a few times - two or three pumps works well - and holding it down again to cut down on the time the air bubble has to rise back up the pipe.

A similar procedure sometimes works well on brakes but remember that the brake pedal doesn't really go more than half way down in normal use do you need a block under the pedal to stop it pushing the piston and seals into a part of the cylinder where it normally doesn't go - to avoid possibly damaging the seals on a part of the cylinder wall where corrosion or debris may be waiting. The clutch pedal goes full stroke in use so doesn't have this potential problem.

Ooooh, so its not just me. Omg THANKYOU! those are great tips, and I will try tomorrow. Absolutely wore me, and my poor ol back out.

Do you happen to have a tip for getting the pedal onto the new master cylinder. I cant get the balljoint back together. Tried allsorts. Thinking there must be a knack, I clearly dont have. Thankyou!