General sticky known faults updates

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General sticky known faults updates

1.1 ECU pins and plugs
poor rear wheel tracking (uneven tyre wear)
front exhaust stay rot (stainless to mild steel)
 
Is it just me or do a lot of the 169's you see in the street look a bit "down" at the front? Our Becky (2010 Panda 1.2 Dynamic Eco) had this stance and I didn't really think anything about it until I rebuilt the front suspension - because she spectacularly blew out her N/S front shocker, oil all over the place! - It was only when looking at her afterwards that I realized she's now sitting level. Because of this I tend to look at other Pandas when I'm out and about and quite a few are distinctly down at the front.

Having had a good look at the parts I took off Becky it's obvious that the new road springs made a difference but also that the top mounts, whilst still serviceable, had "relaxed" considerably. This can be easily seen if you look under the bonnet at the top of the strut rods and observe how far they protrude from the top mounts. On Becky one was protruding visibly further than the other (O/S if I remember) and both were protruding considerably less with the new top mounts.

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So, I suppose what I'm saying is that if your's is sitting a bit down at the front when you look at it on a flat surface then it may well be mostly due to settling of the road springs but the top mounts also seem to play a part so I'd always renew them if replacing springs/shock absorbers/etc. Just because your car is sitting a bit "nose down" doesn't necessarily mean it's unroadworthy though. Becky has always pulled slightly to the left - despite resetting toe and doing numerous other checks and component renewals - It was noticeable that the degree of pull was considerably reduced - almost unnoticeable now - when the front suspension was rebuilt and I wonder if the combination of ride height being lower on one side - and lower overall - was the main contributing factor?

By the way, the pics of the top mounts were taken with the car on it's wheels. ie, not jacked up.
 
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Front strut top mounts and bearings. The bearings seize and spin in the rubber. That wears the rubber bush but I believe it also contributes to the steering pulling and might even cause wide wheels (as on 100HP) to flutter. New top mounts cost about £20 each.

Another issue is the open threads on alloy parts. Rather than drill and tap blind holes, Fiat drilled them right through allowing corrosion into the threads. Broken bolts are not uncommon. The "fix" is to treat all open threads with ACF-50 - use a syringe to quite a dollop into the open end of the holes (alternator, clutch housing, gearbox, brackets, etc). It's a deeply searching water splaying oil that's used on aircraft frames. The places where I used it allowed bolts to come out more easily. Where I did not the aluminium oxide clag at the bottom of the bolts stripped out the threads.

Cam chains on the Multijet diesel. The single row chain is adequate for 100,000 miles but after that you are on borrowed time. Change it along with the oil pump and oil sump pan. Cost is about £200 for parts. Fail to do it and costs will double as you will need a set of valve rockers and you might trash the engine. It's a great shame you can't fit a dual for chain.

Exhaust catalyst outlet pipe bracket. The mild steel P clips are cheap but they "evaporate" very quickly (mild steel against stainless pipe). Leave it flapping and the pipe will fracture at the base of the catalyst.

Clutch master cylinder can mimic a failed clutch. You cannot buy new hydraulic seals and Fiat will try to sell you a pre-filled pipe and cylinder (@£180). A new cylinder is under £60 and one person can easily bleed the fluid. Additionally, the hydraulic pipe QD coupling is often corroded solid forcing you to replace the slave at the same time. Just change the master and then the slave if it needs doing.
 
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burn body computer connector headlights

brake or indicators dim, light cluster connector

starter motor not spinning , ignition switch, I have repaired 3x but only seen one one here ?


poor acceleration, economy, starting, misfire, oil contamination of MAP sensor. Mainly ECO engines
 
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Headlight connectors have a grey ring/sleeve that slides sideways out from the connector body. The connector then simply pulls off the headlight.
Easy when you know how. A nightmare when you don't.
 
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