Hi just an update on the motor....I clean up the cam shaft and cam bearings....clean all channels that the oil must go thru the the pypline oil feed too.....struggle to get it started till my battery died...that was yesterday.....this morning putting a strong battery in it then it starts.....I had to keep my revs low that it can idle so when it was warm up it revs fine and it dont seems to do that where the car just die when it comes down from high rev...so it looks good so far just didn't have a chance to drive it yet ....that's the worry part for me because previously it does that in my driving aswell but I dont know yet if still gonna do the same just praying that it's not gonna....I work alot so only have time for my car at late afternoon side..so ya gonna drive it later afternoon and hope for the best.....and the idle is little low when adjust by carburetor the revs just get high as car warming up...so ya I'm still learning about my car ...and thanks for the guidance so far...Mr P. Jock and Bill...appreciate
Uno Slipping timing belt
- Thread starter Carlit
- Start date
Currently reading:
Uno Slipping timing belt
Sounds like a result so far. If all is now clean and oil is getting through, let's hope it works. These engines seem to tolerate a lot of wear, just becoming noisy, so that's a good omen.
Hopefully it now has fresh oil. As suggested earlier, change it again soon, and don't miss oil changes in the future. Fresh oil will gently take away some of the 'goo', in a safe way, so don't flush it.
Hopefully it now has fresh oil. As suggested earlier, change it again soon, and don't miss oil changes in the future. Fresh oil will gently take away some of the 'goo', in a safe way, so don't flush it.
Still can't drive it because it switches off under my feet... but it drives ok....
Hi good day peeps .... I have just one more problem with my uno fiat carburetor....my car dont wanna idle.....but I noticed if I close the top part of the carburetor it idle.....when taking my hand away it stalls...seems like air...can any one perhaps tell what I must look for on the carburetor or check ....tia
I replaced the idling jet because I thought it was that but it was not...
Check for a small round item with wires attached screwed into the carb. This is an overrun fuel cut off solenoid. This could be stuck in operation. It is not designed to stop fuel via the main jets but to stop/reduce fuel via the idle and throttle plate progression holes.
Do you mean the idling jet...because that is the only thing that have a plugin wire ....when you attached the plug to the idling jet....it the point in front goes in but that's only when ignition is on....that's all wire I know of....This how to carburetor looks like the back part
Attachments
That round object in your picture looks like a vacuum operated RPM lifting/fast idle device. It should have a hollow tube going from it to a tube mounted on the cylinder head somewhere. This tube will be fed with engine water through it's body body. On the body will be temperature sensitive vacuum valves.
If I recall my Uno SX 1300 setup correctly there are two of those temp. sensitive valves. One goes to the fast idle diaphram actuator and the other goes to somewhere else on the carb. In addition there will be another tube off the carb for the vacuum source.
In your picture you show two brass tubes on the base of the carb.
The Panda Nut
Nutty about Pandas Infected by Panda virus and OPD
Suggestions. Wrong belt / tensioners supplied / fitted. Ugh!! Tensioner not released or working. Belt should be tight.
Belt worngly routed round pullies.
Make sure its correctly aligned. I once had a car where the marks were incorrectly shown in the workshop book. I would checkTDC abd valvs open are right from first principles ebfore restarting. Sadly the wrong belt seems the most likjely. Good luck
Belt worngly routed round pullies.
Make sure its correctly aligned. I once had a car where the marks were incorrectly shown in the workshop book. I would checkTDC abd valvs open are right from first principles ebfore restarting. Sadly the wrong belt seems the most likjely. Good luck
There is actually 3 brass tubes....two thick ones and the middle one is thinner....if you look on the picture you see the one on the left have a vacuum pipe leading to distributor...the one on the right leading to air filter cover...the middle one the thin one have small pipe that goes into that round object that looks like a vacuum operated rpm...if that's what you call it....and but that one is blocked the thin brass pipe try to stick anee needle threw there but don't go threw I not sure if it supposed to be so...another pic of similar carburetor I have
Attachments
I changed new timing belt and tensioner and water pump it was idling fine then it just started cutting out...but car drive ok just the idling problem....so I'm also in a puzzle...the mechanics around me can't exactly what is wrong with it but they say my motor sounds fine when revving up
And it's my second new timing belt...but I will look into that again just to make sure
So it was that that thing the idling jet ....the new one I bought was faulty because I noticed that when I touch the plugin was movie like it's loose what means sounds like a bad connection.but the funny part is that I was giving up on this struggle of getting this motor to idle..what I did is I clean up my old one and put it back in....so I took a chance to just give it one more swing ...and booom...there it idling like nothing wrong ...I was like wth.....how?...but any way it idle and don't switch off thanks you all. ..... Now my new problem....I then bought a new water pump '..it then suddenly make a really bad noise....what can be the cause of that what did I do wrong
That picture shows the fuel cut-off solenoid I was referring to.
So the fault was there you right ....bought new so end up faulty...clean old one put it in and car idle normal....very confusing for me but it idle at least
So must I still buy a new one for just in case?
Well if all is working OK now then it is your decision for a spare.
Technically I think you can run the car without this shut-off solenoid. Can't recall all operational details but if the solenoid is not there it can't interrupt the idle/overun fuel flow. So all you would need to do is remove and block off the solenoid chamber, or possibly cut off the pin, or disconnect the electrical cable. What you do would depend on is the solenoid activated and pin out during overrun or is the solenoid activated and pin out during normal running.
I'm only foggily remembering this, but back many years ago I've come across carbs with shut off valves whose main function was to cut fuel to the jets as soon as the ignition was killed. I think this came along when manufacturers started experimenting with weaker fuel mixtures for better economy and less emissions but because designs were more basic than today engines were prone to running on with self detonating combustion taking place - not requiring a spark. Some engines would splutter and even run backwards for a few revs, I can hear it in my mind!
