Technical Replacing a radio in my 169 with a sat nav unit

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Technical Replacing a radio in my 169 with a sat nav unit

lunchbeers

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First off find a reasonable double din unit, if you’ve a smartphone, something with Android Auto or Apple Carplay, that should pretty much guarantee you future proofing and map updates - lord of people buy the cheap chinese Android units from Aliexpress, but I feel that these are fraught with issues and they are never straightforward to install. Go for a good brand like Pioneer, Alpine.. etc. My last was a JVC which I had no issues with and it was reasonably priced.

Make sure that what you buy comes with ancillaries such as a GPS antenna, microphone and if applicable, a DAB antenna, otherwise factor this in.

Depending on the kit in the car, if you have steering wheel controls, you’ll need an interface, I normally pick up a complete fitting kit from dynamic sounds, who can help you with the right bits for your car, typically this will include a fascia adapter, aerial adapter and if necessary a steering wheel adapter.

Fitting is generally plug and play, the plugs in the car are the same as any other and have been unchanged for years, plug these into your chosen stereo adapter cable (will come with the stereo) and connect up any ancillaries - I normally put the GPS antenna on the black bit of glass behind the rearview mirror and the microphone inside the courtesy light (if space to do so), if you fit a DAB antenna run it separately from anything else, they are very prone to interference from things like dash cams etc.

You may also need to find space for a USB port, on my last car I removed the cigarette lighter socket and replaced with a double USB socket on a flying lead - like so https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/31404661...9T_jidcQUC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

The only things you should need to join is power to the antenna adapter (if this is the case on the 169) simply connect the blue wire to the one labelled ‘remote’, also likely blue - this is the remote switch for a seperate amp, but will work fine, potentially a line to the handbrake switch, or an earth, or leave disconnected, depending on your unit, you could also fit a reversing camera, which would require a reverse light switch feed, but probably unnecessary on a Panda.

This probably makes it sound more difficult than it actually is, but in reality, I could have fitted it in the time it took me to write this post on my phone.

If you’re really unsure, there are firms out there who will fit it for you.
 
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OP
OP
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Joined
Aug 2, 2021
Messages
194
First off find a reasonable double din unit, if you’ve a smartphone, something with Android Auto or Apple Carplay, that should pretty much guarantee you future proofing and map updates - lord of people buy the cheap chinese Android units from Aliexpress, but I feel that these are fraught with issues and they are never straightforward to install. Go for a good brand like Pioneer, Alpine.. etc. My last was a JVC which I had no issues with and it was reasonably priced.

Make sure that what you buy comes with ancillaries such as a GPS antenna, microphone and if applicable, a DAB antenna, otherwise factor this in.

Depending on the kit in the car, if you have steering wheel controls, you’ll need an interface, I normally pick up a complete fitting kit from dynamic sounds, who can help you with the right bits for your car, typically this will include a fascia adapter, aerial adapter and if necessary a steering wheel adapter.

Fitting is generally plug and play, the plugs in the car are the same as any other and have been unchanged for years, plug these into your chosen stereo adapter cable (will come with the stereo) and connect up any ancillaries - I normally put the GPS antenna on the black bit of glass behind the rearview mirror and the microphone inside the courtesy light (if space to do so), if you fit a DAB antenna run it separately from anything else, they are very prone to interference from things like dash cams etc.

You may also need to find space for a USB port, on my last car I removed the cigarette lighter socket and replaced with a double USB socket on a flying lead - like so https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/31404661...9T_jidcQUC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

The only things you should need to join is power to the antenna adapter (if this is the case on the 169) simply connect the blue wire to the one labelled ‘remote’, also likely blue - this is the remote switch for a seperate amp, but will work fine, potentially a line to the handbrake switch, or an earth, or leave disconnected, depending on your unit, you could also fit a reversing camera, which would require a reverse light switch feed, but probably unnecessary on a Panda.

This probably makes it sound more difficult than it actually is, but in reality, I could have fitted it in the time it took me to write this post on my phone.

If you’re really unsure, there are firms out there who will fit it for you.
Thank you for the info.

I found this and am not sure of its quality.


 

lunchbeers

Active member
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Mar 19, 2021
Messages
346
That’s precisely the thing I wouldn’t fit, I’m active on other forums where people get these and its always a nightmare to fit and the functionality isn’t great, often they’re underspecced android systems, too slow to operate smoothly, and there’s not much info available on them - Iknow people will pile on me and state that theirs is faultless, but I’m a firm believer that you get what you pay for in life, and £68 doesn’t inspire confidence.

My original Sony head unit from 2006 is still going strong, likewise the JVC I had in my 159, I’ve never had to replace a headunit owing to failure.

This seems to get decent reviews and the price isn't bad nowadays, was well over £500 when I was considering one - https://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/product_m-pioneer-sph-da120_p-32904.htm

Granted more than you’d want to spend, but you know you’re getting a good product and will likely last to be fitted in your next car.

That frame is overpriced too, here’s the connects2 one which are generally a good match - https://www.dynamicsounds.co.uk/con...2003-2012-double-din-fascia-adaptor-grey.html

The same website lists a load of fitting accessories for that car.
 
OP
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That’s precisely the thing I wouldn’t fit, I’m active on other forums where people get these and its always a nightmare to fit and the functionality isn’t great, often they’re underspecced android systems, too slow to operate smoothly, and there’s not much info available on them - Iknow people will pile on me and state that theirs is faultless, but I’m a firm believer that you get what you pay for in life, and £68 doesn’t inspire confidence.

My original Sony head unit from 2006 is still going strong, likewise the JVC I had in my 159, I’ve never had to replace a headunit owing to failure.

This seems to get decent reviews and the price isn't bad nowadays, was well over £500 when I was considering one - https://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/product_m-pioneer-sph-da120_p-32904.htm

Granted more than you’d want to spend, but you know you’re getting a good product and will likely last to be fitted in your next car.

That frame is overpriced too, here’s the connects2 one which are generally a good match - https://www.dynamicsounds.co.uk/con...2003-2012-double-din-fascia-adaptor-grey.html

The same website lists a load of fitting accessories for that car.
Two more superb links. Thanks.

I am going to get the frame from your link. I assume the frame will work with whichever unit I get?
 

lunchbeers

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Messages
346
The frame will be for the car which shouldn't differ, your chosen stereo will have a trim ring which sits inside the frame.
 
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Work in progress update.
One reason for doing this job is because a previous owner had installed a radio apparently using a kitchen knife. I removed the butchered surround which had a small in-tray at its top. The main reason is to get a sat nav display - the radio is never on and so not needed.

I wish I had put a cloth in there to catch the little bits that insisted on falling behind into oblivion.

I used the existing U clip speed fasteners for the four retaining screws for the new unit but lost two in the process of removing them to place in the new positions.:( They area bit different from my usual type and sprung off flying right into the void

I had to fettle the new plastic surround a lot by trimming it on the edge as well as the mounts in order even to get it to fit. I had specified the year of the Panda but it looks like the wrong type had been sent.

The Android came with "universal" mounts which had to be trimmed by removing ¼" of each edge and realigning one slot hole on each side.

Now that the unit is physically in place I will be able to connect it once a 16 pin Android to ISO lead arrives.

Once at that stage I will continue the update
Pandroid (1).JPG
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.
 

DaveMcT

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18,496
The clips may well have dropped to the floor below the gear lever. You can quite easily remove the wrap-around panel below gear lever to check behind.
 
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The clips may well have dropped to the floor below the gear lever. You can quite easily remove the wrap-around panel below gear lever to check behind.
Yes I did. I pulled the lot to bits. lol It is an auto.:cool:
Panda console (1).JPG


It is hiding in the loom area I reckon. I need a magnet strong enough to lift the whole car to "suck" it out. lol
 
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