Bumping thread, hope OP pablopablo got the above sorted out (please share if you can take the time).
+1 for replacing a failing brake power regulator/brake proportioning valve:
The b failed MOT Swedish version last fall due to uneven rear brakes (40% difference). Went through this forum, ordered the right hand side brake power regulator/brake proportioning valve (non-spring version). Due to a rust seized nut, I ended up replacing the shortest brake pipe attached to the valve as well. The above got the b '95 through the MOT today, albeit not with flying colors by any means (still 25% difference), but sufficient. The difference is clearly felt, with 40% difference, when jamming the brakes, you had to compensate with the steering. Now, this is not needed. The tech was convinced the remaining difference would even out with use...
Brake line gem (try it at your own risk):
One beautifully simple little trick I learnt on a Chevy Silverado forum (got a '97 4X4 5.7L V8), concerning one-man brake line jobs, is using a rod/stick to engage the brake pedal (just enough) using the seat for support. When the brake pedal is engaged, access to the oil reservoir is cut off (normally in order to build pressure in the system). In a functioning brake system (engine off), the engaged pedal enables you to open up your brake line without losing brake fluid and without getting air in the system upstream!!! Upon closing the the brake line, you just have to bleed the brake line downstream. In retrospect, painfully obvious
It's gotten to the point that I kind of enjoy doing service on the brake line without brake fluid ending up everywhere... I used it again now, when performing the above.
Hand brake cable:
The old hand brake cable sheath(?) had rusted through on the right hand side, so following prior experience here on the forum, I replaced it without removing the rear exhaust system and heat deflector(s). I attached a wire to the old hand brake cable, pulled out the old cable, attached the wire to the new hand brake cable and pulled/worked it slowly back in place, not without some difficulties, but not that bad. The new handbrake cable is/was a bit longer than the old one, but comparable enough that the simple hand brake compensatory system can handle it. After a/both cable(s) are replace(d) the handbrake needs to be re-adjusted (simple enough following the Service Manual (can fortunately be downloaded on the site)). The adjusting is a bit fiddly (back and forth) when you don't have the specialty tools, but simple enough.
Parts:
I ordered from Autodoc, the cable was Ridex (don't know how it will age, but seemed like good quality).
When I become less cheap and more wise I'll of course change valves and cables on both sides, but until then it was at least acceptable for Swedish MOT.
Welcome spring, a green b is back on the road and waiting for ya!
