Technical Parking brake- is something missing here?

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Technical Parking brake- is something missing here?

F30Msport

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Took one rear wheel off to see if I could adjust the parking brake. Try as I could, it would not adjust enough to make a difference. I realize I need to take the other side off as well, but I pushed the parking brake mechanism by hand and realized it doesn't move the brake shoes much, if at all. Looking at pictures online, I feel something is either missing, or so worn down that it's not working right. Check out the pics.

Does anyone know how I can post a video on here?
 

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Took one rear wheel off to see if I could adjust the parking brake. Try as I could, it would not adjust enough to make a difference. I realize I need to take the other side off as well, but I pushed the parking brake mechanism by hand and realized it doesn't move the brake shoes much, if at all. Looking at pictures online, I feel something is either missing, or so worn down that it's not working right. Check out the pics.

Does anyone know how I can post a video on here?

I can’t see item 16 in your pictures
 

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Also, this area looks worn down...
 

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On the 500, the handbrake is not adjusted at the wheel but at the cable. Follow the cable along from where it connects to the rear brake and you will find that the cable is located on a bracket on the rear suspension arm. That section of the OUTER cable is threaded and held onto the bracket with a nut either side of the bracket (off the top of my head, 1 x 17mm nut either side of the bracket). The handbrake adjustment is made by adjusting those nuts. The handbrake cable is a 1 piece/double-ended cable; it goes from the handbrake lever (on the rear drum) round a roller at the bottom of the handbrake lever and then out to the lever on the other side, by the brake drum. It can (and should) be adjusted evenly on both sides. I normally adjust the handbrake so that there is 3 'clicks' on the handbrake lever when fully on. You will find it easier to adjust the handbrake if you make yourself a pair of 'short' spaners (or, if you are feeling flush, buy a pair)
 
So I did just that, and adjusted the cable here, with little change. Still seems like I am missing that part.
 

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So I did just that, and adjusted the cable here, with little change. Still seems like I am missing that part.

You should be able to buy a new complete linkage kit and not the entire brake setup. Adjusting the cable will not achieve anything with that link missing and it would also account for that gap which should disappear with that link in place.
 
Got this spare set of levers here you can have for £5 +post
 

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If you enlarge the second picture I am sure you can see part 16 but it is behind the brake shoe but not in contact with the slot on the shoe. Therefore the hand bake is only acting on one shoe if at all.
 
I agree with you Fiona---the'cross-link (part 16) seems to be hidden behind the wheel cylinder. Maybe it is a case of 'it's been built up wrong' rather than 'a part missing'
 
I see it now! I'll have to pull the wheels of later and try to sort it out. Thanks!
 
So....I fixed the parking brake. Needs adjusting further, but as you guys pointed out, the "cross-link" was for some reason behind the brake shoe as opposed to on it.

However, I did something in the process of fixing the parking brake, and i now have a soft brake pedal. Completely different feel unless I pump the brakes a bit. What might I have done?
 
Any thoughts?
Chances are that the self adjusters, which make a friction grip on the shoes and keep the brake-linings just shy of touching the drum, are no longer doing that job. Therefore, each time you apply the brakes the slave cylinder has to push them outwards the full distance rather than a fraction. @Toshi 975 will know, but I think the originally fitted adjusters could be tightened. The modern, preset ones seem to be a weakness. People usually suggest driving backwards fairly briskly and then applying the brakes...that may help.

It may just be that before you sorted this out, the brake-linings were being jammed close to the drums and that the action is now normal; my brakes never feel anything like as quick to apply as a modern car, although they work well once they contact.
 
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Took one rear wheel off to see if I could adjust the parking brake. Try as I could, it would not adjust enough to make a difference. I realize I need to take the other side off as well, but I pushed the parking brake mechanism by hand and realized it doesn't move the brake shoes much, if at all. Looking at pictures online, I feel something is either missing, or so worn down that it's not working right. Check out the pics.

Does anyone know how I can post a video on here?
I would suggest that you give the brakes another good bleed, starting with the furthest from your master cylinder and working round to end at the wheel nearest the master cylinder. Check that the hand brake is adjusted to just 3 clicks (handbrake adjustment does make a difference to brake 'feel'). If you still have a funny pedal, make sure that the road is clear and then reverse the car up the road rapidly whilst pumping the brake pedal. No one has been able to explain why, but be assured, this ca, and often does, bring the brake pedal up.
 
I would suggest that you give the brakes another good bleed, starting with the furthest from your master cylinder and working round to end at the wheel nearest the master cylinder. Check that the hand brake is adjusted to just 3 clicks (handbrake adjustment does make a difference to brake 'feel'). If you still have a funny pedal, make sure that the road is clear and then reverse the car up the road rapidly whilst pumping the brake pedal. No one has been able to explain why, but be assured, this ca, and often does, bring the brake pedal up.

The Haynes manual says that it's because the trailing shoe is normally worked less hard than the leading and therefore gets less opportunity to make maximum travel. Braking in reverse causes the roles to be reversed, thus giving the adjuster the opportunity to do some work.
 
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