Technical Panda (169) 1.2i MR2006 - error P1220 issue (vs. oil level)

Currently reading:
Technical Panda (169) 1.2i MR2006 - error P1220 issue (vs. oil level)

I am NOT overfilling oil, never. Always recommended 2,8l = then P1220 appears regularly (per few hundred km), if lowering oil to 2,5l, it appears very rarely, if ever.
 
40% of engine cooling is by oil not coolant

Reducing the oil means the engine gets to temperature quicker

Which is why I asked if it failed more often hot or cold, which has been answer of random gave no clues

Power side of Track A of the gas pedal goes off to the coolant circuit, ground side goes off to the compress circuit, exactly how it's all wired up depends on whether the car has Aircon or not, which is why I asked

Its quite likely the power and grounds will be used elsewhere as well

Was a throttle relearn done after the throttle body was changed

Was a throttle relearn done after the gas pedal. Was changed
 
Negative from the accelerator pedal goes to the compressor

Positive to the cooling system

Personally I would think the problem was on the positive side, any voltage drop will cause a mismatch

The easiest option would be to put a flight recorder on and record track a and b and see if a mismatch occurs

Assuming it does you could put an oscilloscope on the positive and negative and view the graph

Without oscilloscope you'll have to go through some elimination, most of the Aircon can just be disconnected for example

Have you taken the earth strap off the gearbox and chassis rail and cleans up the ends and where they bolt to

K055 = gas pedal

Screenshot_20251119-193259.png
 
Earthing checked numerous times.
I am NEITHER an electrician NOR I undestand electricity NOR I have measuring equipment = nogo DIY. But thanks for trying.
 
Before you give up at least try disconnecting the linear sensor

169002678_2.jpg


Pin 3 of the ECU is shared between the gas pedal and this A/C sensor

Screenshot_20251120-103120.png


Being at the front it's in the elements
 
I wont do that . But I will keep your suggestions for the future, once time comes to involve an electrician. Not yet.
 
But, thanks for advice ref Air-con off. This I have not tried yet, Will do so.
 
After some time, there I go with an update (btw, @koalar: you found it right - its me on that CZ forum you posted - I have all your electrics-related issues stored for further use - once it happens there is a qualified electrician available to me - at the moment there is none, and I am a mechanical engineer only):
First: I thought it might be somehow related to oil levels, but it is NOT. Unfortunatelly. Despite low oil P1220 happened twice in short succesion = so I refilled to (almost) full oil content (2,7l) again.
Second: After extensively communicating with local (CZ) ECU-unit-focused entities I came to realisation it might be (an accumulated) SW and/or HW error and eventualy came to following conclusion: I may get an OEM new! (unsused) and identical unit (Fiat code 51758235) incl. sw config (= immo pairing) locally. So I will sooner or later go this way, thought it will be rather costly.
Will update then.
 
Btw, we have tried driving with A/C off, but... as I wrote, P1220 happened recently twice, while driving with compressor off = so this is not an issue, too.
 
After some time, there I go with an update (btw, @koalar: you found it right - its me on that CZ forum you posted - I have all your electrics-related issues stored for further use - once it happens there is a qualified electrician available to me - at the moment there is none, and I am a mechanical engineer only):
First: I thought it might be somehow related to oil levels, but it is NOT. Unfortunatelly. Despite low oil P1220 happened twice in short succesion = so I refilled to (almost) full oil content (2,7l) again.
Second: After extensively communicating with local (CZ) ECU-unit-focused entities I came to realisation it might be (an accumulated) SW and/or HW error and eventualy came to following conclusion: I may get an OEM new! (unsused) and identical unit (Fiat code 51758235) incl. sw config (= immo pairing) locally. So I will sooner or later go this way, thought it will be rather costly.
Will update then.
If you could replicate repeatedly it would be easier to sort out

Total intermittent, where the failures are far apart are more troublesome

You have to do something, then wait, put it back to original and see if the fault comes back

Personally I disconnect the linear sensor (less than 2 minutes to do) same power wire as the accelerator pedal and see how it goes

Unfortunately fiat share the wiring, the earth goes somewhere on the cooling side

If it's not the pedal which has already been changed, these are the areas I would be looking at first



acc.png


Corrosion on the pins or connector is very common, and lead to inconsistent operation,this is a panda or ka MK2 gas pedal can't remember now, it needs cleaning with switch cleaner as well as the connector on the harness


Blocked drain scuttle causes water to run inside the heat duck and drip out near the pedal

I know of very few ECU failures, oil pressure switch, physical pin broken, injector error, physical broken pin due to constant wiggling the wires, couple ignition coil drives fryed mainly running the car with a misfire, in 10 years only one intermittent fault on crank sensor, and the car was on a steep hill in a hot country, for this sort of fault it's clutching at straws, possible but it would be literally millions to one chance,
 
Last edited:
Thanks for further leads/hints.
As I wrote, all related components (pedal throttle, sensors) have already been replaced with new ones + consecutively all their connectors checked for corrosion, bent pins etc = no problems found.
 
Back
Top