Styling Painting the rear bumper

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Styling Painting the rear bumper

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Hey folks,

So today I went ahead and started the process of fixing an eyesaw of the rear bumper of my GP. I went ahead and sanded away the lacquer and got to the layers of paint. I sanded with 400 grit and then used 800 grit to smoothen the surface. Then I cleaned the surface and proceeded to apply layers of Fiat 599/a Blue Magentico spray paint. It's that this point where I have gotten stuck and need to ask you folksfor help. Is this paint metallic? Have I gone down the correct route?

I've so far got a Matt finish and have been told that I need to sand it with 1200 grit sandpaper before applying 2 layers of lacquer if the paint is metallic. Is this also correct?

Many thanks,
 
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Alright so with the lack of replies I went ahead and asked at Halfords, turns out they are not trained with paints and are useless for that sort of stuff. They just sell what I need. Highly recommend Motorbits, the guy spotted what I had done and recommended rubbing compound and 1600 grit sandpaper which had been working a treat. My arms are knackered now haha but I'll post some before and after shots of the work so far. Still got more rubbing compound to apply and still need to apply lacquer.

Before the whole process: https://imgur.com/a/oxYezaH

Currently: https://imgur.com/a/ezwKwZa

I think it's going well, any tips or something I've missed?
 
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hey folks,



so today i went ahead and started the process of fixing an eyesaw of the rear bumper of my gp. I went ahead and sanded away the lacquer and got to the layers of paint. I sanded with 400 grit and then used 800 grit to smoothen the surface. Then i cleaned the surface and proceeded to apply layers of fiat 599/a blue magentico spray paint. It's that this point where i have gotten stuck and need to ask you folksfor help. Is this paint metallic? Have i gone down the correct route?



I've so far got a matt finish and have been told that i need to sand it with 1200 grit sandpaper before applying 2 layers of lacquer if the paint is metallic. Is cthis also correct?



Many thanks,



f
 
Alright so with the lack of replies I went ahead and asked at Halfords, turns out they are not trained with paints and are useless for that sort of stuff. They just sell what I need. Highly recommend Motorbits, the guy spotted what I had done and recommended rubbing compound and 1600 grit sandpaper which had been working a treat. My arms are knackered now haha but I'll post some before and after shots of the work so far. Still got more rubbing compound to apply and still need to apply lacquer.



Before the whole process: https://imgur.com/a/oxYezaH



Currently: https://imgur.com/a/ezwKwZa



I think it's going well, any tips or something I've missed?



I wish I could suggest something, always happy to even misguide people. Lol painting is totally outta my league, I only painted my 13 year old Honda's fuel tanks, turned out to be a horrible job. I don't clean the fuel tank much these days haha

Perhaps, there aren't any talented painters in this forum, just Electricans and Mechanics.

However, I personally feel paint job is never a DIY thingy, it looks easy in videos but those folks know what they are doing, at what temp and weather and how to maintain that matte and glossy thing.

Just let some professional do it.
 
My Fiat doesn't deserve any professional bodywork :( The price of getting it done professionally is not appealing, considering I paid less than £1k for it. I'm doing some more work on it tomorrow and I'll post the final result here.

Also going to post a thread about my engine management light...again haha.
 
Three ways of doing when it comes to car paint…

Professional: quite expensive but tip-top results !
"Pro"DIY: tailor made sprays to match the exact car's color and final application of bi-component lacquer, available nowadays in sprays (one single usage tho). Results might vary depensing upon painter skill and surface preparation (most important).
Poorman's DIY: do not even try any intermediate method, you'll end-up anyway with mitigated results: no need to buy your cans in a specialized shop, better throw your money for some other stuff. Supermarket standard color sprays and single component lacquer (varnish) WILL give a fresher look to your car's bumper although the color will probably not really match…

Once again the key word here is PREPARATION ! And as much as possible, the paint works should be done in a clean warm space. If done outside try to do it on a non windy day after a shower when most of the dust as been rain washed down…

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)
 
Three ways of doing when it comes to car paint…

Professional: quite expensive but tip-top results !
"Pro"DIY: tailor made sprays to match the exact car's color and final application of bi-component lacquer, available nowadays in sprays (one single usage tho). Results might vary depensing upon painter skill and surface preparation (most important).
Poorman's DIY: do not even try any intermediate method, you'll end-up anyway with mitigated results: no need to buy your cans in a specialized shop, better throw your money for some other stuff. Supermarket standard color sprays and single component lacquer (varnish) WILL give a fresher look to your car's bumper although the color will probably not really match…

Once again the key word here is PREPARATION ! And as much as possible, the paint works should be done in a clean warm space. If done outside try to do it on a non windy day after a shower when most of the dust as been rain washed down…

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)

Thanks for the reply, so I've got the colour coded paint 599a blue Magnetic. The surface preparation was somewhat ok, sanded off the old lacquer and at least a layer of paint until the bumper was smooth, at that point I switched to a slightly finer grit and did a once over with it. It was very smooth to the touch. Then I applied the paint left to right, right to left in a continuous pattern making sure to let go after every swipe. Left around 15 minutes for each coat, did around 2/3 coats. Let that cure for 24 hours. At this point I had some really fine sand paper, 1600 grit and did a once over. Now I'm in the process of using rubbing compound which is making the Matt finish disappear and bringing out a shiny finish whilst also blending in the new paint to the existing paint. I believe the next step is to apply 2 coats of lacquer with a 15 minute interval between application. If it turns out ok then I might have a go at some rust removal along the sills and around the wheel arches.
 
You don't need/want to polish the base coat before lacquer/clear..that will cause the lacquer to chip off.
The clear will be what fills the ridges in the base coat, and it is the clear that will need to be polished.

The major problem with spot repair is actually blending the old and the new.
Usually, score/sand/key the old paint on a much larger area, then after the small repair is done and painted in base coat, the new clear will cover some of the older keyed/sanded area (but not all)..... after a few days/weeks when the paint and clear are fully dried; only then polish the entire area...this gets decent results with lots of practice. Time can be shorter with the use of drying lights.
paint.png
Professionals also use a "blender"... it's some sort of a paint thinner that can make the new clear flow into the old... gets much better results.

It's always better to paint an entire panel... even if the paint isn't 100% exact match; at least you don't have 2 colors on the same panel.
 
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I typed up a similar reply earlier but it vanished when I tried to post it! Yes the base coat should not be touched or contaminated with anything let alone greasy rubbing compound. Normally clear coat is sprayed directly after the base using a wet on wet method to ensure a proper bond. Surprising results can be had using spray cans but there are many tricks involved to achieve that "processional" finish. But best to practice on some scrap first and make sure to use the same product type for both clear and base coats else that sanding arm is sure to get a serious workout...
 
So I've started again after realising that I don't use rubbing compound on the paint itself haha. I've redone the paint, let that dry. It went Matt by itself so I added a few layers of lacquer. It looks totally unmatched to the rest of the car but I suppose that is what the rubbing compound is for in a few weeks.
 
So I've started again after realising that I don't use rubbing compound on the paint itself haha. I've redone the paint, let that dry. It went Matt by itself so I added a few layers of lacquer. It looks totally unmatched to the rest of the car but I suppose that is what the rubbing compound is for in a few weeks.

Yay ! you have so much help now.
:) Slow and steady.
Do share your work.

Best of luck.
 
I typed up a similar reply earlier but it vanished when I tried to post it! Yes the base coat should not be touched or contaminated with anything let alone greasy rubbing compound. Normally clear coat is sprayed directly after the base using a wet on wet method to ensure a proper bond. Surprising results can be had using spray cans but there are many tricks involved to achieve that "processional" finish. But best to practice on some scrap first and make sure to use the same product type for both clear and base coats else that sanding arm is sure to get a serious workout...

It happens, i have learnt to copy your text prior clicking anywhere else, it often logs you out. I believe it has something to do with the remember me, button besides login button.

Or just because there is no activity on the page, your logged out i.e while we are typing for a little longer and sipping some Tea. :D
 
Rubbing compund won't in ANY way blend the new layers to the existing ones, that's pure myth !

Professional painters do spray samples (let them dry etc) before applying the paint and adjust their mixture according the results. You ordered the correct reference but that just mean you've received the original whatever paint it was, not the one that has been exposed for many years to atmospheric poluants and UV rays.
Red and blue colors are particularly sensitive, while other seems more stable…

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)
 
So quick update, I've applied another coat of lacquer and it's come out amazing. Is it 24 hours or 2 weeks before I go ahead with rubbing compound to blend it in with the existing paintwork?

It needs to dry completely.
My opinion...if you don't have a heated paint booth or the infrared lights to cure the paint... i'd leave it at least 3 days in a hot summer or 1-2 weeks in this time of year.

Compound won't blend the paint... but it will give new life to the old clear coat.. The older paint will get visibly darker/deeper.
 
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