Technical Overheating problem

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Technical Overheating problem

Jamieoneillbmx

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My car use to overheat in the winter and today me and my dad checked the car out and i found out that the thermostat in the radiator that turns the fan on is broke so im going to get a new one tomorrow. All youre guys help was much appriciated and my head gasket is all ok. And as for my car its running sweet i put degreaser over engine today and jet washed it off and it looks better. I want my engine to look better tho can anyone tell me or show me how to make it look better and more stylish. And i was thinking about putting a new air filter system in my car anyone recomend any and what will it do for my car if i do ?
 
Hi sorry about keep posting.
And yes the switch is ok i did what you said i bridged over a wire to get the fan spinning. I allso took the thermostat bolt out the radiator put it in boiling water and tested it to see if the connection was there and theres no connection at all. It should work when the tempriture of the water is high thats why i put it in boiling water to see if it worked and it didnt allso the other one that goes into the engine doesent work ether so im going to replace them both tomorrow there only £8 each. Had my car like 7 months and only just sorting this problem out im ashamed that i left it so long tbh. Just glad it hasnt blew my head gasket
 
Don't change anything until it all works ok, risky otherwise.
Id not do more than gunk an engine, unless you have ot out of the auto.
While you have the system drained you should try a proprietary coolant flush compound.
I frequently have to drain mine and it is always full of crud, sometimes remove the radiator and run water from garden hose through it.
When you get your new switch fitted and the system topped up and air bleed done, you should run the auto at a tickover until the fan has cycled on and off twice.
The fan is normally detectable when you stop at traffic lights or get stuck in a jam, If it does not come on you need to run the heater fan with the heater selected to on, and open the windows...
You need to inspect the inner drive shaft gaiters weekly if they have oil on them it will destroy your gear box, as the gear box wont have any oil in it. Check the gear box oil level regular, dont worry about a different air filter

Noel
 
I think the coolant sensor in the engine you removed is a temperature dependent resistor, and you need to use a multi meter on it, the proper values are on the FAQ, if it was broken it would make the engine run like a dog...
 
Well there the only 2 things there that power the fan up. And ill check my gear box oil asap. And ive just had to buy 2 new CV joint gaiters for my front end as they were excessively worn.
 
Well there the only 2 things there that power the fan up. And ill check my gear box oil asap. And ive just had to buy 2 new CV joint gaiters for my front end as they were excessively worn.

Well on my Sei the only thing that switches the fan is the sensor in the radiator, you may have an additional sender on the engine or intake manifold for a water temperature gauge, but the other temperature sender in similar engine area is for the ECU to control the auto choke... you measure its resistance with a multi meter.

The outer CV shaft gaiters just keep grease in and sand out, the inner gaitors keep the gear box oil in, if they leak the gear box gets to be dry pretty quick, a lotta people destroy their gear box so ones in breakers yards attract premium prices.

If you still have a gear box and a head gasket you are ahead of a lotta people.
 
Yes i still have a gear bix abd head gasked i just need to get the dan sorted asap tbh. Allso the rails on my seats are rusty im gunna spray them up to make them look better
 
Yes i still have a gear bix abd head gasked i just need to get the dan sorted asap tbh. Allso the rails on my seats are rusty im gunna spray them up to make them look better

Well id look under the boot floor and the rear wheel arches for rust holes a rust hole may be a one way ticket to breakers yard in sky
 
you need to look under the boot floor and garden hose the inner arches and floor forward of the boot.

don't worry over much about the cross cylinder that can be replaced rust damage anywhere else is immediate treatment or weld if to far gone latter expensive unless you can weld.

best to look before you buy but not all of them are bad
 
No rust anywhere else on my car just in the boot its had mot and they would of said. Anyway the rust in boot does need welding i think only a small patch tho so not really bad.
 
No rust anywhere else on my car just in the boot its had mot and they would of said. Anyway the rust in boot does need welding i think only a small patch tho so not really bad.

They frequently won't mention rust and unless you remove all the mud they won't see any rust it is down to you to hose, brush and look.

If you need a weld on boot floor other bits may be worse.
 
Yh ive allready checked the car for rust. And i ha an advisory on rust on my mot and the rust is right at the back of my car just behind the back left wheel arch doesent look like a easy job tbh but ill get a pivture upladed and you can tell me what you think
 
Yh ive allready checked the car for rust. And i ha an advisory on rust on my mot and the rust is right at the back of my car just behind the back left wheel arch doesent look like a easy job tbh but ill get a pivture upladed and you can tell me what you think
 
what you need to do or have done already is to remove the mud.

to reduce the rate of rust
to inspect and coat with primer and wax to stop the rust where it is possible

holes are not rust they are air
 
ImageUploadedByFIAT Forum1376330362.508802.jpgImageUploadedByFIAT Forum1376330376.025387.jpg
Thats the rust in my car atm im going to get it sorted asap tho.
 
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