Technical Noisy pump in tank of 500 pop ???

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Technical Noisy pump in tank of 500 pop ???

Hello.
Sadly, we put the first pump ( Continental) in the bin, because at the time we thought it was just normal pump failure after some years of use.

We couldn't fiddle with the Delphi pump because we were sending it back.

However, we suspect that it seized.
It was noisy for a week, then stopped suddenly.
While waiting for the QH pump, the car was obviously idle for a few days. Then, before removing the Delphi pump, we turned on the ignition and the pump came to life, very graunchy, then stopped.
This is why we suspect that it seized, plus the ever increasing noise suggests wear, more wear, then seizure.
 
Personally I'd attach a meter to measure the current rather than the voltage I doubt the voltage gets any higher than 14v and any spike would be sunk very quickly you could measure both voltage and current?, my gut feeling is failure due to overheating regardless of sitting in the fuel?
 
Personally I'd attach a meter to measure the current rather than the voltage I doubt the voltage gets any higher than 14v and any spike would be sunk very quickly you could measure both voltage and current?, my gut feeling is failure due to overheating regardless of sitting in the fuel?
What current fo you think should pass through it ? Yes, agree on the overheating. Could this be caused by too much current or is it more likely to be caused by the pump pushing against a restriction of some kind ?
 
I have just read on another thread that you should never fill your tank to the top. I have done this many times so have probably damaged my charcoal EVAP canister and purge valve. Would this explain my car's appetite for pumps ?
 
I have just read on another thread that you should never fill your tank to the top. I have done this many times so have probably damaged my charcoal EVAP canister and purge valve. Would this explain my car's appetite for pumps ?
True, you shouldn't fill it to the filler neck, just let the pump click off twice, though that wouldn't cause your current pump failure, I simply don't know, my suspicion is a restriction causing the pump to work "overtime" hence the overheating and failure, a total guess is a standard motor with steel bearings and a plastic impeller to pump the fuel overheating making the impeller loose on the shaft eventually seizing ?
 
Silly idea connect a foot?tyre pump to the fuel line to the engine pump air in and see how much resistance there is and how quickly it falls off(return to tank) if it holds pressure maybe that shows a restriction somewhere in the system ? I think you might need a fuel system expert
 
As the fuel lines pass through the EVAP, what would happen if the EVAP was flooded with fuel ?
 
The current will probably be around 10amp, so make sure your meter doesn't go pop.

It should be a constant load for the pump, it marginal difference in load based on fuel use sonce the pressure regulator will hold it at 3 bar (ish) - and it should hold that pressure for some time if manually charging it.

Tbh, you'll be wasting your time since you dont know the difference between good and bad rsults.
I cant see an impeller type pump being overloaded by a blockage.
 
An update.
We have removed the tank.
The pump pushes fuel through a black solid plastic pipe to the engine.
Unused fuel is pumped back through a solid blue pipe to the top of the EVAP and comes out the bottom of the EVAP through 2 blue pipes which go into the top of the tank.
These 2 entry points have one-way float valves, so when filling your tank you do not pass fuel back up to the EVAP.
However, I have found a compressed part of the blue return pipe, between the engine and the EVAP. Flow would be reduced by about 50%.
It's a puzzle. If this is the problem, why hasn't the car been eating pumps for the 3 years we have owned it ?
We had a heatwave here in June, when the problem began.
The compressed part is just where the cable-ties secures the pipes to the filler-neck.
Did the pipes soften in the heat and reset in a compressed state ?
 
I agree with Ralphs. MM parts I have used have all be a perfect fit and I have never had any issues. They often tend to come with a very useful instruction sheet. I also find febi are top quality and they are also sold as blueprint.com stuff. I have been astonished how the quality seems and the fit has been as perfect gets on a variety of parts / cars over several years. Their stuff is stocked available through motorparts direct. I also have found their customer service at out local branch to be of the best standard too. On parts in general shop4parts.co.uk. based in Bradofrd / Leeds have been exemplary and are recommended very often on here. I have had 1 faulty part that failed after 9 months and it was replaced by return of post with no issues and a proper top notch customer services response thrown in. Great service is a real reason to buy from them in itself. Prices are also vastly less than Fiat for , more often than not, Fiat original boxed parts. Its is probably just bad luck the one you have has failed, but do check the entire fuel line has no cracks or splits that could make it leak and work harder especially anywhere you had to move or bend the pipe on fitting. I hope the next time you change ths is the last!
 
However, I have found a compressed part of the blue return pipe, between the engine and the EVAP. Flow would be reduced by about 50%.
It's a puzzle. If this is the problem, why hasn't the car been eating pumps for the 3 years we have owned it ?
We had a heatwave here in June, when the problem began.
The compressed part is just where the cable-ties secures the pipes to the filler-neck.
Did the pipes soften in the heat and reset in a compressed state ?


The crimped section in the line sounds suspicious. A restriction can raise the fuel pressure in the lines, and the pump would have to work harder to overcome the resistance.

If it's working harder, it will be drawing more amps, which would both kill the pump and also cause a repeat failure.

Measure the current draw at the fuel pump (or at the fuse, or relay if you don't want to dismantle the engine). It'd be interesting how many amps it's using.


Ralf S.
 
Measure the current draw at the fuel pump (or at the fuse, or relay if you don't want to dismantle the engine). It'd be interesting how many amps it's using.
Do you know what a good one draws?
 
Hello to all again.
Fitted a new pump, fitted a new EVAP box, new MAP sensor, repaired broken pipes on air-filter box, flushed the tank, flushed the lines --- set multimeter to A, connected to source and to pump ---- readings stayed at between 0.303 and 0.330 and went to 0.360 under throttle (guess that's a consistent 3amps then ? ).
Back out on the road tomorrow morning. . . ..
 
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