General New 4x4 Cross Underseal - Dinitrol v Lanoguard v Waxoyl

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General New 4x4 Cross Underseal - Dinitrol v Lanoguard v Waxoyl

Corrolan from Rust.co.uk is the lanolin stuff I use. Comparable price to Waxoyl but easier to use ( less masking) and goes a long way. 5lts will do a Panda about 4 times - 8 years of protection!!
One thing to mention about Waxoyl - in 1982 I replaced the sills on my MG Midget then filled them with Waxoyl. In 2018 I opened the sill end plates and had a look down the inside of the sills, looked like 1982. I think they changed the forumla since.
 
Corrolan from Rust.co.uk is the lanolin stuff I use. Comparable price to Waxoyl but easier to use ( less masking) and goes a long way. 5lts will do a Panda about 4 times - 8 years of protection!!
One thing to mention about Waxoyl - in 1982 I replaced the sills on my MG Midget then filled them with Waxoyl. In 2018 I opened the sill end plates and had a look down the inside of the sills, looked like 1982. I think they changed the forumla since.
They've changed staff in their help centre too since 1982 ;

Me; " hi, please confirm waxoyl still kills existing rust as well as preventing new rust as I've heard you have changed the recipe, it does still say so on my new tin?"

Help centre " no, it only prevents new rust by covering the surface and not allowing oxygen in so rust can't form"

Me " are you sure? on my can it says kills old rust and prevents new rust"

Help centre ; " oh OK, well then yes it does"

I was hoping the actual company may have known..
 
Comma wax seal works very well. It sprays a thin penetrative liquid that dries and hardens to leave a tough wax coating.
 
Anchor Wax from Morris Lubricants does the same as Comma Wax, Goes on as wet film to dry as a wax, dry to the touch. Stinks and I'd only use it for temporary protection.
 
Corrolan from Rust.co.uk is the lanolin stuff I use. Comparable price to Waxoyl but easier to use ( less masking) and goes a long way. 5lts will do a Panda about 4 times - 8 years of protection!!
One thing to mention about Waxoyl - in 1982 I replaced the sills on my MG Midget then filled them with Waxoyl. In 2018 I opened the sill end plates and had a look down the inside of the sills, looked like 1982. I think they changed the forumla since.
Hi
Corrolan is better than Lanoguard as Lanoguard has to be applied more often, Corrolan is also more cost effective as well. The Lanoguard grease though is a fist class product which also can be warmed and melted and put on by brush.
As has been said when a sheep rubs itself on ferrous metal no rust forms or stops existing rust in its tracks.
To my mind Waxoyl and Dinitrol are well past their use by dates.
 
I'd read some people recommended ACF50 on parts. I used it every year on my Megane on the rear beam and suspension and it didn't stop corrosion so not worth your time
 
I have used Dinitrol ML for cavities and areas where a light coating required, 4941 for all areas where road dirt is going to be attacking.
Used on approx 15 classic VW transporters some that are daily drives and off roaded, my own vehicles such as Subaru outback that sees a lot of country roads and winter weather.. I use the "Shultz" cans and gun with a compressor.
Important points are. Do it in the summer when it's nice and warm, for a used vehicle clean as much crud off as poss (good pressure wash and scrub with brushes after) make sure it's dry, remove flaky paint etc and treat any rust with a quality converter (Dinitrol RC900 is expensive but does work very well in my opinion) feel free to prime and paint also. But you are only going to slow it's return in any case.
I often apply a very thin coat of ML to prime surfaces (can rarely remove all dirt etc, so this soaks in and creaps behind loose paint and coatings) and allow to dry off for a week or longer. Then apply coats of 4941, leave at least a couple of hours if not over night between coats, build up layers in the high impact areas. Give it a week outside in warm weather if poss before subjecting it to weather and dirt..
This has proven to be a very durable methodology.. but it does take time and patience..
Seen some vehicles by an "specialist" that were washed and coated the same day and the coating was lashed on so thick it obliterated fixtures and fittings and was still dripping off a week later..

Oh.. it stays sticky and very mobile for a number of weeks so any work needed on the vehicle in that time, expect to get the coating on yourself..
 
I have a new Sport and plan to do the same. I like the look of Lanoguard since it looks like a clear wax on the surface rather than the black mastic products that only remind me of 1970's Ford Cortinas, epoxybfiller and newspaper..

I have no idea whether its any good or not but anything waxy will flow and not peel off. so even if it needs re-applying every few yesrs it wont do amy harm and its better than nothing.

Ralf S.
 
Having given Heighway a spray with the Lanoguard, I can confirm that it looks like it does what it says on the tin... 🤓

It has a reputation that it requires heating prior to spraying, in order to not clog the applicator gun but I didn't heat my goo - although it was in the house for a few days prior, rather than in the garage, and the weather was fine (ambient c. 8 ~ 10C).

The applicator bottle itself looks like a slightly tricker version of a regular spray bottle... but I noticed it atomises a lot more than, say, a recycled window cleaner bottle etc. I didn't have problems with it clogging, even overnight.. although I cleaned the tube and nozzle/head with Fairy liquid before I put it away.

The goo is quite thin and creeps everywhere, so no worries about spraying it onto seams etc.. it works its way along crevices and into voids, which seems like a good thing. It drips a bit when it collects at drip points.. so I put a sheet/my body underneath to keep the driveway clean.

It "dries"... although this is my least favourite aspect of the product, although getting under the car without ramps to apply it, runs it close. Lanoguard says leave the car in the fresh air for 2-3 days.. so I left mine on the driveway for a whole week. However it was still "greasy" even after 2 weeks. Anything you'll need to handle (suspension, or even if you're crawling under the car) feels greasy (or waxy, I suppose) as if it was covered in regular grease, and dirt does stick to it. Lano' will make working on the car a lot messier, I suspect.

After a month, the wax feels more like candle wax, in that it is "soft" but not wet. I wouldn't fancy that it will stay unmoved if you grab something coated in it but it doesn't attract grit and dirt any more, which is handy since Lanoguard say you can spray "everything" (apart from the brakes), and having "sticky" on CV gaitors etc. that then catches grit, does not seem to qualify as a "result ".

I also put some down my inner wings, since 2ltrs is loads (I used approx. 1ltr for the whole car) but I noticed that since the wings get warm, from engine heat, the wax becomes soft again even after it's nominally dried. I'd probably try to keep it off any warm surfaces next time, just to prevent them getting soft > sticky > gritty.

To my mind the goo is better suited to box sections and cavities, and the underside of the car as long as you don't crawl around under it. Certainly nooks and crannies and brackets and jacking points etc. can all benefit. Anything "visible" or that you have to handle is more a matter of opinion. In a lot of respects the sheep dip is not much different from regular grease.. and people don't routinely coat their cars in grease for a reason.

I'll keep an eye on it, to see how we get on. I would recommend it for its water repellence (although it's early days, obviously) and it seems as though it will last well, particularly in the under-body nooks.

I've posted some photos of the X so you can see what it looks like, The colour is slightly yellow (like sheep pee) but it doesn't adversely affect the appearance of painted surfaces... they just take on a matt waxy appearance. You can see on the trailing arm that there's a fingerprint in the surface, so you can get an idea of how it handles. In the suspension photo you can see that on the lower wheel arch, the goo is still wet (this photo was +7 days).



Ralf S.
 

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Having given Heighway a spray with the Lanoguard, I can confirm that it looks like it does what it says on the tin... 🤓

It has a reputation that it requires heating prior to spraying, in order to not clog the applicator gun but I didn't heat my goo - although it was in the house for a few days prior, rather than in the garage, and the weather was fine (ambient c. 8 ~ 10C).

The applicator bottle itself looks like a slightly tricker version of a regular spray bottle... but I noticed it atomises a lot more than, say, a recycled window cleaner bottle etc. I didn't have problems with it clogging, even overnight.. although I cleaned the tube and nozzle/head with Fairy liquid before I put it away.

The goo is quite thin and creeps everywhere, so no worries about spraying it onto seams etc.. it works its way along crevices and into voids, which seems like a good thing. It drips a bit when it collects at drip points.. so I put a sheet/my body underneath to keep the driveway clean.

It "dries"... although this is my least favourite aspect of the product, although getting under the car without ramps to apply it, runs it close. Lanoguard says leave the car in the fresh air for 2-3 days.. so I left mine on the driveway for a whole week. However it was still "greasy" even after 2 weeks. Anything you'll need to handle (suspension, or even if you're crawling under the car) feels greasy (or waxy, I suppose) as if it was covered in regular grease, and dirt does stick to it. Lano' will make working on the car a lot messier, I suspect.

After a month, the wax feels more like candle wax, in that it is "soft" but not wet. I wouldn't fancy that it will stay unmoved if you grab something coated in it but it doesn't attract grit and dirt any more, which is handy since Lanoguard say you can spray "everything" (apart from the brakes), and having "sticky" on CV gaitors etc. that then catches grit, does not seem to qualify as a "result ".

I also put some down my inner wings, since 2ltrs is loads (I used approx. 1ltr for the whole car) but I noticed that since the wings get warm, from engine heat, the wax becomes soft again even after it's nominally dried. I'd probably try to keep it off any warm surfaces next time, just to prevent them getting soft > sticky > gritty.

To my mind the goo is better suited to box sections and cavities, and the underside of the car as long as you don't crawl around under it. Certainly nooks and crannies and brackets and jacking points etc. can all benefit. Anything "visible" or that you have to handle is more a matter of opinion. In a lot of respects the sheep dip is not much different from regular grease.. and people don't routinely coat their cars in grease for a reason.

I'll keep an eye on it, to see how we get on. I would recommend it for its water repellence (although it's early days, obviously) and it seems as though it will last well, particularly in the under-body nooks.

I've posted some photos of the X so you can see what it looks like, The colour is slightly yellow (like sheep pee) but it doesn't adversely affect the appearance of painted surfaces... they just take on a matt waxy appearance. You can see on the trailing arm that there's a fingerprint in the surface, so you can get an idea of how it handles. In the suspension photo you can see that on the lower wheel arch, the goo is still wet (this photo was +7 days).



Ralf S.
Thanks Ralf, that's a fantastic post. Over the last week I have used Corrolan on my Bravo 2.Corrolan is a Lanolin product like Lanoguard. The penetrator sprays on great and takes no time at all. But I also decided to top it off with Corrolan pure, blimey that is heaps thicker and became a very messy job.

I can still taste wool wax five days later.

Really glad I did it though and hopefully it will keep my Bravo free from rust.
 
Looks like a great job. I've decided as soon as the car arrives it will go to my local bodyshop to have the sump / diff protectors and the rear beam painted, before going to get Lanoguarded
 
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