General Neutral Safety Switch Location? 1981 Spider 2000

Currently reading:
General Neutral Safety Switch Location? 1981 Spider 2000

SpiderGuy

New member
Joined
Jan 22, 2022
Messages
1
Points
1
Location
colorado springs colorado
Does anyone know..Where is the Neutral Safety Switch is located on a 1981 Spider 2000?
I just bought my first Spider and have just started cleaning it up and trying to get it running. I need to find the Neutral Safety Switch and test it to see if it is working but I do not know where it is located.

Trying to figure out why the starter is not working when the key is turned to start position.
Bad Starter? Bad Ignition Switch? Bad Neutral Safety Switch? Fuses?

Also I suspect may have a problem with the Ignition switch because Fuel pump works when key is in the start position, but fuel pump stops when key is in run position.


Thanks for any info
 
Does anyone know..Where is the Neutral Safety Switch is located on a 1981 Spider 2000?
I just bought my first Spider and have just started cleaning it up and trying to get it running. I need to find the Neutral Safety Switch and test it to see if it is working but I do not know where it is located.

Trying to figure out why the starter is not working when the key is turned to start position.
Bad Starter? Bad Ignition Switch? Bad Neutral Safety Switch? Fuses?

Also I suspect may have a problem with the Ignition switch because Fuel pump works when key is in the start position, but fuel pump stops when key is in run position.


Thanks for any info
I'm only familiar with the earlier, pre-fuel-injected 124 Spiders, but seeing as no one else has responded, I'll offer the following, it might help.

There are no fuses in the starter motor circuit, so you can rule out a fuse issue.

To check the starter motor and ignition switch, check if you have a live feed to the red wire on the solenoid on the starter motor when you turn the key to the start position. If you find access to the starter motor too difficult (iirc, it's easier from underneath the car), (this red wire simply plugs into the solenoid so no need for wrenches) you can alternatively test this at the rear of the ignition switch - it's the red wire fitted to terminal #50. Be Careful - there's a rubber boot covering the bunch of cables attached to the rear of the ignition switch, if you just pull back this boot, you may dislodge several cables and then have difficulty in figuring out where each should go (access is difficult, so you might have to use a mirror to see what you're doing and the terminal numbers on the rear of the switch). So, hold the wiring loom (bunch of cables) in place while easing the boot back carefully. This red wire should be live (hot) when the key is turned to the start position. If it's not, then the switch is faulty (assuming correct and good connections of all cables).

Also, if this red wire is not hot and you want to check the starter motor, you could connect a jumper cable between terminal 50 (red wire) and either the heavy brown (terminal#30) or heavy black cables (terminal # 30/1) at the rear of the ignition switch - both of these 2 cables are hot, so the jumper will supply a hot feed to the red cable and onwards to the starter motor solenoid. Alternatively, you could connect a feed direct from the battery +ve to this red wire at the ignition switch. If this red wire is hot or you can make it hot using a jumper cable but the starter motor doesn't engage, then starter motor is probably faulty and will need to be removed for further inspection.

Iirc, for safety reasons, the fuel pump might only be powered when the key is in the start position but not in the run position until the engine has been started - so I wouldn't read too much into this for the moment, as it may be normal.

Iirc, some models had a safety feature whereby the starter motor could not be operated unless the seatbelts had been fastened but afaik this was only on models earlier than your car..

I have no information on 'neutral safety switch' or even if one is fitted on your model, sorry.

In summary, I suspect your issue is most likely a problem with either the ignition switch or the wires connected at it's rear, so I'd advise concentrating your checks on these areas first. Starter motors seem to give very little trouble on these cars (bearing in mind the starter motor could have failed on your car before you bought it). But I have seen mention from other owners on the 'net of having experienced ignition switch failure. If the switch does prove to be faulty, be careful when obtaining a replacement, some have iirc 6 terminals, other have 7 - (some replacement switches may have been manufactured for the Russian Lada cars) this can cause difficulty for owners, but afaik both are interchangeable but may require possibly juggling cables around a little.

Hth,
 
Last edited:
Back
Top