Technical Need help fitting brake pads

[puntonew]

my 1.2 8v mk2 does not have a spring clip on the caliper housing. there was nothing to hold the pads in the caliper either, they just sort of came out.....

fairly easy job in the end, once can clip the new pads into the rail/slot.

broke the rule of new pads across the axle, and just replaced both pads on one wheel, reason being, only 1 of 4 pads was worn out, 3 others were still good, but at least replaced both on the one wheel.
looks like previous owner may have replaced pads one at a time.

 

[Ziggy122]

fairly easy job in the end, once can clip the new pads into the rail/slot.

broke the rule of new pads across the axle, and just replaced both pads on one wheel, reason being, only 1 of 4 pads was worn out, 3 others were still good, but at least replaced both on the one wheel.
looks like previous owner may have replaced pads one at a time.

Why it takes only 15mins did you just do the other side?

So your now asking 1 wheel to bed in quickly to match the otherside - its asking for trouble!

Ziggy

 

[portland_bill]

...broke the rule of new pads across the axle, and just replaced both pads on one wheel, reason being, only 1 of 4 pads was worn out, 3 others were still good, but at least replaced both on the one wheel.
looks like previous owner may have replaced pads one at a time.

Only one pad worn suggests seized caliper. It will probably be the one next to the piston, showing that the caliper is not moving to pull the second pad onto the disc. Needs to be fixed, a) to prevent recurrence, b) to ensure even braking, especially in an emergency.

 

[dave]

fairly easy job in the end, once can clip the new pads into the rail/slot.

broke the rule of new pads across the axle, and just replaced both pads on one wheel, reason being, only 1 of 4 pads was worn out, 3 others were still good, but at least replaced both on the one wheel.
looks like previous owner may have replaced pads one at a time.

:shakehead:
do as above, and never replace just 1 even if the rest look new its just not the right thing to do

 

[puntonew]

Why it takes only 15mins did you just do the other side?

So your now asking 1 wheel to bed in quickly to match the otherside - its asking for trouble!

Ziggy

because they still had 3/4 of the braking surface left on them. it was my dads decision. i agree with you, its a false economy. its difficult to tell that man anything.

would it lead to the new set of pads, being heavily used and worn down until they match the pad depth on the wheel on the opposite side of the axle?


thanks

 

[puntonew]

Only one pad worn suggests seized caliper. It will probably be the one next to the piston, showing that the caliper is not moving to pull the second pad onto the disc. Needs to be fixed, a) to prevent recurrence, b) to ensure even braking, especially in an emergency.

interesting thanks.

after braking would it also result in the caliper not moving to pull the second pad off of the disc?

because bringing the car back from the sellers house, when the worn pad was scraping on braking, the scraping noise persisted for a while after the brakes had been released.

on the test drive or on part of the way home, the brake wasnt scraping at all, it was only when we got nearer home that the brake started scraping.

 

[dave]

kick your dad up the arse and say thats from dave. then buy a haynes and your own tools and do the job properly

 

[puntonew]

kick your dad up the arse and say thats from dave. then buy a haynes and your own tools and do the job properly

thats the key issue mate......he has stacks of them! bless him, he is a great DIY mechanic though, not much patience but gets the job done by getting stuck in :slayer:, whereas i have lots of patience but dont get my hands stuck into all the awkaward places as readily

 

[puntonew]

Only one pad worn suggests seized caliper. It will probably be the one next to the piston, showing that the caliper is not moving to pull the second pad onto the disc. Needs to be fixed, a) to prevent recurrence, b) to ensure even braking, especially in an emergency.

The pad that was down to the metal was the offside front outside disc pad.

I have just been out for a 10 mile drive and the brakes are catching all the time on the right hand side, it feels like the brake is on 30% the whole time. Therefore i cannot drive it properly as lots of power is being lost, and on the trip computer it is showing 35.1mpg.....

It sounds to be from the front offside wheel. (Although strangely when i got home, i could smell a slight burning smell, and if anything, it smelled to be coming from the back right wheel, as opposed to the front right wheel.)

Anyway, what is the cure for a seized caliper?

Many thanks

 

[portland_bill]

If the caliper is not moving as it should, it may well hold one pad in contact with the disc.

Another reason to replace all the pads together is that the friction material will be all the same. Manufacturers use different friction materials and may even change them, so today's is different than last week. Replacing one pad will give a mismatch and possibly dangerous braking.

Your Dad may be willing to get stuck in, but with decisions like that we'd all be happier if he wasn't sharing the same road as us.

If after driving you think any wheel is giving a burning smell, that needs investigation.

It sounds like you need to have all four brakes examined and freed-off or diagnosed as necessary. There may be more than one issue here.

Brakes seizing could be due to dust, rust, over adjusting (rear drums), or a hydraulic fault. It has been known for the internal walls of brake hoses to delaminate and act like one-way valves, holding brakes on.

One wheel at a time, check the brake applies and releases, then fix as required.

 

[puntonew]

If the caliper is not moving as it should, it may well hold one pad in contact with the disc.

Another reason to replace all the pads together is that the friction material will be all the same. Manufacturers use different friction materials and may even change them, so today's is different than last week. Replacing one pad will give a mismatch and possibly dangerous braking.

Your Dad may be willing to get stuck in, but with decisions like that we'd all be happier if he wasn't sharing the same road as us.

If after driving you think any wheel is giving a burning smell, that needs investigation.

It sounds like you need to have all four brakes examined and freed-off or diagnosed as necessary. There may be more than one issue here.

Brakes seizing could be due to dust, rust, over adjusting (rear drums), or a hydraulic fault. It has been known for the internal walls of brake hoses to delaminate and act like one-way valves, holding brakes on.

One wheel at a time, check the brake applies and releases, then fix as required.

Thanks

we didnt replace one pad at a time, we replaced both pads on the one wheel. the other wheels pads were 3/4 as thick as the new ones so he thought we should leave them on.

 

[Ziggy122]

Nope
You should always do them in pairs regardless what the other side is

Thats the rules for safety and practicality

I would never do partial repairs


Do it once do it properly

Ziggy

 

[puntonew]

Yes thanks ziggy.

i have jacked each wheel up individually, and its the offside front that spins a lot less freely than the other 3, so pretty sure its this that is still the problem.
Just need to examine it to find out why it is sticking.

If an inspection doesnt reveal anything, maybe a trip to the scrapyard for a complete new caliper, will be a good idea. And if the problem still persists, perhaps it is in the brake piping system, as portland bill mentioned.

 

[Ziggy122]

Yes thanks ziggy.

i have jacked each wheel up individually, and its the offside front that spins a lot less freely than the other 3, so pretty sure its this that is still the problem.
Just need to examine it to find out why it is sticking.

If an inspection doesnt reveal anything, maybe a trip to the scrapyard for a complete new caliper, will be a good idea. And if the problem still persists, perhaps it is in the brake piping system, as portland bill mentioned.

There should be an element of Free Spin but also an element of drag still there
often you'll hear a disc making a sort of catching sound

Also dont forget - front wheels have the diff to contend with
one side might be more resistant vs the other side

If you do try a 2nd hand caliper
Give it a darn good clean way before you fit it
While its off its your best chance

Also make sure the top slider is completly free and allows full movement
Any krustyness - i'd find another personally

Ziggy

 

[puntonew]

yes will try servicing the existing caliper, copper greasing parts etc. removing any rust first, b4 getting another from the scrappers.

its a false economy not replacing all pads/shoes on an axle together, as they come in a box of 4 from the shop, so you will always need to buy a box of 4 when the time comes, even if replaced them in pairs one wheel at a time.

will say this for the punto - its a great first car to learn how to do DIY repairs on, and see how things work.

on the astra mk4 and vectra B's (utter piles of crap :yuck, although we did some servicing DIY, it was always rather intimidating due to the complexity of the cars, which is the case with most modern cars, as technology and added features take over. which means for most, many DIY repairs are just not possible, beyond the simple stuff.

but just for a basic car, that you want to learn how to work on, and build a skill set, i think the punto 1.2 8v non ABS is great. Loads of engine bay hand space etc.

And it drove fine today, just a shame the brakes were on 30% all the way!

 

[puntonew]

Well finally got 1.2 8V punto on the road and its doing great, touch wood.

brake pads no longer sticking, as it free wheels well in neutral, as well as my previous cars did, so hard to imagine any of the discs or pads are sticking.

pumped tyres up and getting a good ride, and trip meter showing around 56 MPG.

1 or 2 minor things still left to do, but i am liking my punto

there is however, a constant whooshing / whirring sound, coming from underneath car when its moving forward, whether engine is switched on or off, so its not the engine itself. does this sound like a wheel bearing going? i thought this noise was the brake pads on disc, but not any longer for reasons outlined above......

 

[puntonew]

there is however, a constant whooshing / whirring sound, coming from underneath car when its moving forward, whether engine is switched on or off, so its not the engine itself. does this sound like a wheel bearing going? i thought this noise was the brake pads on disc, but not any longer for reasons outlined above......

think that noise is actually just the tyres. they are very audible compared to mk4 astra. one more punto detail to familiarise myself with.