Technical Location of service (maintenance?) items

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Technical Location of service (maintenance?) items

Rototype

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Hi All.

Spent a few hours this afternoon under my Doblo (1.6MJ 2013) and I'm struggling. I think I found the oil drain plug but I'm not sure and I don't want to break it before I use it for a holiday next week. (would've liked to change the oil before I went though).
Can anyone confirm that this IS or ISN'T the engine oil drain plug?

Possible Drain Plug.jpg


I'm pretty sure that I also found the Oill Filter, around the back of the engine

Oil Filter.jpg


My only issue here is access - anyone got any good ideas on how to get to it? (apart from taking it to the garage since I already have the good oil and filter) - I got the jack about as high as I can comfortably without using extra blocks of wood on it.

One final note - I tried the Haynes manual for the Doblo (Online only) - DO NOT BUY - IT'S USELESS! there are NO pictures of anything to do with the Doblo oil change process on it and absolutely noithing other than generic 'try this' and other general cover their arses warnings. There's a 5 minute video of changing oil - ON A RENAULT!!

Many Thanks
Tim
 
Thanks @portland_bill - Not seen a hex head on a sump plug for a long time is why I hesitated. It's going to have to wait until I get back from holiday now but I should be able to borrow some ramps to get the front up a bit higher then - if they work OK then it looks like I'll be investing in a pair.
 
Thanks @portland_bill - Not seen a hex head on a sump plug for a long time is why I hesitated. It's going to have to wait until I get back from holiday now but I should be able to borrow some ramps to get the front up a bit higher then - if they work OK then it looks like I'll be investing in a pair.
Fully endorse portland_bill's advise as recently bought a 2010 1.6 multijet Doblo Cargo with oil in coolant caused by the oil cooler in your photo, in the end I had to change the filter housing and the oil cooler several times due to faulty non genuine parts. Re the plastic nut on oil filter housing use a very good fit spanner, oil the new O ring and don't over tighten it.
Not every ones choice but I use a suction drainer down the dipstick hole, if the oil is hot and thin , as long as the tube goes right to the bottom of the sump it can save a lot of grief from previously abused sump plugs. I also use engine flush prior to changing oil on my diesels, but Note this is a personal thing and on newer Fiat engines this is strongly discouraged for reasons of design, so follow Fiat advice.
 
Not every ones choice but I use a suction drainer down the dipstick hole, if the oil is hot and thin , as long as the tube goes right to the bottom of the sump it can save a lot of grief from previously abused sump plugs. I also use engine flush prior to changing oil on my diesels, but Note this is a personal thing and on newer Fiat engines this is strongly discouraged for reasons of design, so follow Fiat advice.
Never had one of those and I prefer to go from underneath anyways (call me a traditionalist) - I can see the appeal of them though. Personally I prefer to open the drain plug at the bottom and let it out that way - I'm not afraid of replacing sump plugs if they seem damaged and I may swap this one for one with a more conventional head. My previous Doblo (2005 1,9JTD) I switched from using the copper washers to using Dowty washers on the drain plug and replaced them every time - not expensive and pretty much a guaranteed seal every time as long as you don't do anything silly with them.
My only slight concern is the plastic panel/guard next to the drain plug - Does this also need removing or do I need to use something to deflect the oil from washing over it (and subsequently leaking everywhere)?
 
Never had one of those and I prefer to go from underneath anyways (call me a traditionalist) - I can see the appeal of them though. Personally I prefer to open the drain plug at the bottom and let it out that way - I'm not afraid of replacing sump plugs if they seem damaged and I may swap this one for one with a more conventional head. My previous Doblo (2005 1,9JTD) I switched from using the copper washers to using Dowty washers on the drain plug and replaced them every time - not expensive and pretty much a guaranteed seal every time as long as you don't do anything silly with them.
My only slight concern is the plastic panel/guard next to the drain plug - Does this also need removing or do I need to use something to deflect the oil from washing over it (and subsequently leaking everywhere)?
Always prefer traditional method, but over the years have come across so many damaged or over tightened , Dowty are good and modern copper washers tend to be over hardened so make poor seal.
Seem to recall easier if plastic inner arch moved away for good access to the plastic filter cap and also if oil hot and thin it will splash everywhere.
Much preferred my old 55 plate 1.9JTD Doblo, though at 220k miles, smoking and starting to show signs of rust, time to let go.
 
Well, I finally got round to the service - put the ramps on some 25mm skids so I needed a lead-on ramp for them, TBH I wouldn't want to do the service with any less space underneath.

As a slight side issue I didn't need to remove the cover beneath since it fell off while I was in the South of France - 2 self tappers and the 2 rear bolts (as it was supplied to me) weren't enough so it had to be removed (front self tapper came free along with a piece of the panel it was screwed to then the fromt 'fingers' dropped out causing it to drag on the ground). This lead to some repair work once I dropped the oil and swapped the filter.
I also removed the side cover panel (drivers side wheel arch) which lead to significantly better access to the oil filter housing. This cover needed some repair since it was the part that failed causing the bottom cover to drop.

Couldn't get a socket on the filter cover but fortunately I had a couple of 32mm spannerswhich did maange to have access. Had I realised the deluge of oil that comes out when the filter cover is removed, I'd have tried to to divert this but as it was the sub frame and drive shaft all got a good dowsing (at least they'll not rust). Removing the cover involved a certain amount of wiggling but the filter came out fairly easily, albeit with more oil.

Replacing the filter and cover was fairly straightforward, remembering to only use hand pressure to tighten it. I'd previously ordered a spare cover remembering that they can be easily damaged but the existing cover was if fairly good condition so it went back on with a new O ring.

Drain Plug: Interesting one this, I didn't know previously that these are hollow with cross drillings at the top, like a hydraulic oil bolt (no idea if this is standard or not) meaning that you only need to unscrew it a few turns to empty the oil. Unfortunatrely, you do need to remove the plug to replace/revitalise the copper or dowty washer that seals this so a bit of a waste really. I waited until most of the oil had drained then removed the plug and swapped the copper washer for a dowty - my preferred method of sealing a drain plug.

Refilled the engine with the recomended Petronas Oil (it's no more or less expensive than any other decent oil really and since it's what's recomended by the factory I'll use it). Gave it a few minutes to settle down the engine then started her up and allowed her to tickover for a few minutes to distribute the oil where it needed and she was putting lile a kitten.

I also replaced the air filter as well while I had the bonnet up - needed it, old one was filthy. All in all it took me about 2 1/2 hours to complete but some of that was fixing the problems caused by the previous mechanic not fitting the correct bolts/screws back where they were supposed to go, and figuring out what to do when and how to do it.

Generally I think there's a few of takeaways from this service. 1) Use ramps to get better working height under the car. 2) take off the side cover under the drivers side wing for better access to the filter housing. 3) Cover everything under the filter housing so it doesn't end up dripping with oil for the next 500 miles. 4) Have the right sized spanner - 32mm and if you can get a fairly flat ring spanner all the better - there isn't space to get a socket in there. 5) Oil starts coming out of the drain plug after about 1/2 turn - have your drain pan ready and have a replacement washer ready as well.
 
Well, I finally got round to the service - put the ramps on some 25mm skids so I needed a lead-on ramp for them, TBH I wouldn't want to do the service with any less space underneath.

As a slight side issue I didn't need to remove the cover beneath since it fell off while I was in the South of France - 2 self tappers and the 2 rear bolts (as it was supplied to me) weren't enough so it had to be removed (front self tapper came free along with a piece of the panel it was screwed to then the fromt 'fingers' dropped out causing it to drag on the ground). This lead to some repair work once I dropped the oil and swapped the filter.
I also removed the side cover panel (drivers side wheel arch) which lead to significantly better access to the oil filter housing. This cover needed some repair since it was the part that failed causing the bottom cover to drop.

Couldn't get a socket on the filter cover but fortunately I had a couple of 32mm spannerswhich did maange to have access. Had I realised the deluge of oil that comes out when the filter cover is removed, I'd have tried to to divert this but as it was the sub frame and drive shaft all got a good dowsing (at least they'll not rust). Removing the cover involved a certain amount of wiggling but the filter came out fairly easily, albeit with more oil.

Replacing the filter and cover was fairly straightforward, remembering to only use hand pressure to tighten it. I'd previously ordered a spare cover remembering that they can be easily damaged but the existing cover was if fairly good condition so it went back on with a new O ring.

Drain Plug: Interesting one this, I didn't know previously that these are hollow with cross drillings at the top, like a hydraulic oil bolt (no idea if this is standard or not) meaning that you only need to unscrew it a few turns to empty the oil. Unfortunatrely, you do need to remove the plug to replace/revitalise the copper or dowty washer that seals this so a bit of a waste really. I waited until most of the oil had drained then removed the plug and swapped the copper washer for a dowty - my preferred method of sealing a drain plug.

Refilled the engine with the recomended Petronas Oil (it's no more or less expensive than any other decent oil really and since it's what's recomended by the factory I'll use it). Gave it a few minutes to settle down the engine then started her up and allowed her to tickover for a few minutes to distribute the oil where it needed and she was putting lile a kitten.

I also replaced the air filter as well while I had the bonnet up - needed it, old one was filthy. All in all it took me about 2 1/2 hours to complete but some of that was fixing the problems caused by the previous mechanic not fitting the correct bolts/screws back where they were supposed to go, and figuring out what to do when and how to do it.

Generally I think there's a few of takeaways from this service. 1) Use ramps to get better working height under the car. 2) take off the side cover under the drivers side wing for better access to the filter housing. 3) Cover everything under the filter housing so it doesn't end up dripping with oil for the next 500 miles. 4) Have the right sized spanner - 32mm and if you can get a fairly flat ring spanner all the better - there isn't space to get a socket in there. 5) Oil starts coming out of the drain plug after about 1/2 turn - have your drain pan ready and have a replacement washer ready as well.
Sorry, I forgot to mention when undoing the oil filter there is a pipe on the housing that you can fix a tube to and the housing has an arrangement where a valve opens when you first start to release the filter cap that directs the oil down the tube into your drain tray.
It was the reason I had to change several cheap pattern housings, when I started the engine oil dripped out of the pipe I mentioned due to faulty manufacture of the shut off valve. They replaced them FOC twice but in the end I gave up and used the old original one with new seals.
 
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