Camyskates
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these nasty bastards appeared tonight. Could both have honestly went at the same time? Or am i looking for a short here.
Technical Little help please
- Thread starter Camyskates
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Technical Little help please
these nasty bastards appeared tonight. Could both have honestly went at the same time? Or am i looking for a short here.
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They both appear related.
P0*** DTCs are generic codes every manufacturer uses.
P1*** (2, 3, 4 etc) are manufacturer specific codes and can have different meanings depending on which manufacturer.
These codes usually need a manufacturers scan tool to read, normal generic scan tools don't usually understand them and tend to throw a wobbler and report rubbish.
P0141 and P1141 both point the the downstream O2 sensor. (also known as Lambda or Hego sensors)
This is the one after/behind/below the catalytic converter.
O2's have a small heater element in them so they can self heat on start up and start working sooner.
The upstream/pre cat sensor/sensor 1 will control the fueling once the engine (and sensor) is warm enough, so when it fails it tend to cause the fuel system into a safe (and very fuel rich) setting.
The downstream/post cat/sensor 2 monitors the cat's performance, it's more of an emission warning sensor.
High and low sensor reading usually point to a fueling or cat issues, but these too have heater circuits in them that can fail
(they are actually the same part number as the upstream one).
It's fairly common for the heater circuits to fail in these sensors, they don't last forever and it's not too difficult or expensive to swap them out.
Replacements come in different guises, generic sensors usually need the wiring chopped and the connections soldering in, but are usually cheap.
One from Fiat will plug straight in but work out the most expensive.
NGK (known as NTK for sensors) is probably the best bet.
They are good quality and can be had quite cheaply, they'll also plug straight on to the loom.
You'll find one here. https://www.sparkplugs.co.uk/
The sensor on these can be accessed quite easily up under the front.
The lower, post cat one more so.
You usually need a special socket to get the old out and tighten the new one up.
They can also be a bit stubborn to undo, cheap O2 sensor sockets can flex, so something like this is worth the trouble.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/hilka-pr...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CIeI7dWE8NgCFaQi0wodRRwBag
I bought one of these and it flexed and slipped, mullering the nut part.
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/hand-tools/laser-oxygen-sensor-socket-22mm-3-8-drive
You'll find vids and help on Youtube that'll give you a taste of what's required to change one.
P0*** DTCs are generic codes every manufacturer uses.
P1*** (2, 3, 4 etc) are manufacturer specific codes and can have different meanings depending on which manufacturer.
These codes usually need a manufacturers scan tool to read, normal generic scan tools don't usually understand them and tend to throw a wobbler and report rubbish.
P0141 and P1141 both point the the downstream O2 sensor. (also known as Lambda or Hego sensors)
This is the one after/behind/below the catalytic converter.
O2's have a small heater element in them so they can self heat on start up and start working sooner.
The upstream/pre cat sensor/sensor 1 will control the fueling once the engine (and sensor) is warm enough, so when it fails it tend to cause the fuel system into a safe (and very fuel rich) setting.
The downstream/post cat/sensor 2 monitors the cat's performance, it's more of an emission warning sensor.
High and low sensor reading usually point to a fueling or cat issues, but these too have heater circuits in them that can fail
(they are actually the same part number as the upstream one).
It's fairly common for the heater circuits to fail in these sensors, they don't last forever and it's not too difficult or expensive to swap them out.
Replacements come in different guises, generic sensors usually need the wiring chopped and the connections soldering in, but are usually cheap.
One from Fiat will plug straight in but work out the most expensive.
NGK (known as NTK for sensors) is probably the best bet.
They are good quality and can be had quite cheaply, they'll also plug straight on to the loom.
You'll find one here. https://www.sparkplugs.co.uk/
The sensor on these can be accessed quite easily up under the front.
The lower, post cat one more so.
You usually need a special socket to get the old out and tighten the new one up.
They can also be a bit stubborn to undo, cheap O2 sensor sockets can flex, so something like this is worth the trouble.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/hilka-pr...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CIeI7dWE8NgCFaQi0wodRRwBag
I bought one of these and it flexed and slipped, mullering the nut part.
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/hand-tools/laser-oxygen-sensor-socket-22mm-3-8-drive
You'll find vids and help on Youtube that'll give you a taste of what's required to change one.
Last edited:
Not got a wiring diagram for the Panda at the moment.
But will the heater circuit not be protected by a fuse to protect it from a short due to water ingress. If so i would check the fuse first.
Changing he lambdas are much easier if the exhaust it hot after a run.
But will the heater circuit not be protected by a fuse to protect it from a short due to water ingress. If so i would check the fuse first.
Changing he lambdas are much easier if the exhaust it hot after a run.
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No, the heater circuits are powered through the PCM, that's why it can detect an open circuit within the sensor. It continuously monitors the circuits checking for shorts and breaks.
Wiring from Sensor to ECU possible. Does it pass near exhaust pipework anywhere..
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