Technical LHD 1995 Fiat Ducato 2.5 tdi

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Technical LHD 1995 Fiat Ducato 2.5 tdi

Knaus 545

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On a Knaus Traveller 545 Fiat Ducato 2.5 tdi LHD
My speedometer has stopped working.
Can anyone please tell me how easy is it to change my speedometer cable
Is it something that I can do myself
Many Thanks
John
 
John,

The fact that you have posed the question, "Is it something that I can do myself", suggests that your knowledge of the task is minimal.

I have not had to replace/ repair the speedo cable on a Ducato, but in general the task is fiddly rather than difficult.

Can you get access to and work under the vehicle? The task will almost certainly require disconnection of the speedometer drive cable at the gearbox.

Do you know how to remove the instrument panel, so as to access the back of the speedometer? The cable will either clip into, or be secured to the rear of the speedometer with a knurled nut.

Can you source a replacement drive cable? In the past, if the outer casing was sound, many local garages would be able to make a replica inner drive cable, when presented with the two broken parts of the original to use as a pattern. There are still some firms providing a mail order service.

If you wish to investigate further, I suggest starting with the safe access to the underneath of the vehicle, and identifying the cable at the gearbox end. If you get as far as disconnecting the outer cable, I think (I could be wrong) that you should be able to remove that end of the broken inner. Retain as a possible template.

If you decide to proceed with a DIY repair, keep bends in the cable to as large a radius as possible. That will help to maximise the life of the replacement, as will lubricating it before insertion.
 
John,

The fact that you have posed the question, "Is it something that I can do myself", suggests that your knowledge of the task is minimal.

I have not had to replace/ repair the speedo cable on a Ducato, but in general the task is fiddly rather than difficult.

Can you get access to and work under the vehicle? The task will almost certainly require disconnection of the speedometer drive cable at the gearbox.

Do you know how to remove the instrument panel, so as to access the back of the speedometer? The cable will either clip into, or be secured to the rear of the speedometer with a knurled nut.

Can you source a replacement drive cable? In the past, if the outer casing was sound, many local garages would be able to make a replica inner drive cable, when presented with the two broken parts of the original to use as a pattern. There are still some firms providing a mail order service.

If you wish to investigate further, I suggest starting with the safe access to the underneath of the vehicle, and identifying the cable at the gearbox end. If you get as far as disconnecting the outer cable, I think (I could be wrong) that you should be able to remove that end of the broken inner. Retain as a possible template.

If you decide to proceed with a DIY repair, keep bends in the cable to as large a radius as possible. That will help to maximise the life of the replacement, as will lubricating it before insertion.
Thanks for the info and yes I'm not that familiar with the gearbox entrance but will secure the motor with axle stands and decent strong hydraulic jacks from a safety point of view
I have been able to remove the instrument panel and see the location of the cable end however there's little or no room to be able to ensure that the end is fitted in correctly
I will have a closer look at the inner of the cable to see if it's OK.
The speedometer needle was jumping a little then just stopped working and not recording the mileage.
I would prefer to do the job myself if possible
Thanks for your reply its much appreciated
Cheers
 
I would prefer to do the job myself if possible
Yes you should be able to do this , with care !
I have been able to remove the instrument panel and see the location of the cable end however there's little or no room to be able to ensure that the end is fitted in correctly
As i understand it , you need to remove the cable from the gearbox end , and this allows you to gently pull enough slack back , to lift the instrument cluster up to disconnect the cable from the cluster .
I've never had to do mine , but the cable should unclip without tools behind the dash . Usually there is some kind of tab you need to squeeze to release it , but sometimes there may be a ribbed nut . In contrast , i would expect some kind of fixing on the gearbox end . Usually this is a crosshead screw , but could be a bolt , of around 10 mm on a commercial vehicle .
I would strongly advise attaching a string , wire whatever to the cable before pulling clear . This will aid pulling a new cable through .
Axle stands are always a good idea , however i've found with my Hymer , i don't even need to jack it up . NEVER EVER RELY ON JUST A JACK , no matter how new , or good it is . Personally i prefer to chock the wheels , and slide underneath . Oh and by the way , take an inspection light with you

TIP !!!! , remove the cable carefully . Sometimes it's possible to replace the inner cable (often the cause of a failure) , without removing the outer . Some manufacturers cottoned on to this , and began to make cables where this was impossible , but not all . You will still need to remove both ends , and carefully tuck the cluster out of harm's way . However i would advise you not to touch ANY electrical connectors on the cluster , and just handle the cluster with extreme care .
 
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Yes you should be able to do this , with care !

As i understand it , you need to remove the cable from the gearbox end , and this allows you to gently pull enough slack back , to lift the instrument cluster up to disconnect the cable from the cluster .
I've never had to do mine , but the cable should unclip without tools behind the dash . Usually there is some kind of tab you need to squeeze to release it , but sometimes there may be a ribbed nut . In contrast , i would expect some kind of fixing on the gearbox end . Usually this is a crosshead screw , but could be a bolt , of around 10 mm on a commercial vehicle .
I would strongly advise attaching a string , wire whatever to the cable before pulling clear . This will aid pulling a new cable through .
Axle stands are always a good idea , however i've found with my Hymer , i don't even need to jack it up . NEVER EVER RELY ON JUST A JACK , no matter how new , or good it is . Personally i prefer to chock the wheels , and slide underneath . Oh and by the way , take an inspection light with you

TIP !!!! , remove the cable carefully . Sometimes it's possible to replace the inner cable (often the cause of a failure) , without removing the outer . Some manufacturers cottoned on to this , and began to make cables where this was impossible , but not all . You will still need to remove both ends , and carefully tuck the cluster out of harm's way . However i would advise you not to touch ANY electrical connectors on the cluster , and just handle the cluster with extreme care .
Many Thanks for your reply I'm going to have a look at it tomorrow
I really appreciate your help
Thanks..
 
Many Thanks for your reply I'm going to have a look at it tomorrow
I really appreciate your help
Thanks..
Yeah good man , as @Communicator , has already said , it's not a difficult job , but it is fiddly . Just take your time , and examine the parts carefully before jumping in .

Got another tip for ya , when your dealing with the unknown . Take a photograph , to remind yourself how it all goes back together . I'm used to taking things apart , but i still use this system myself .
 
Yeah good man , as @Communicator , has already said , it's not a difficult job , but it is fiddly . Just take your time , and examine the parts carefully before jumping in .

Got another tip for ya , when your dealing with the unknown . Take a photograph , to remind yourself how it all goes back together . I'm used to taking things apart , but i still use this system myself .
Great piece of advice.
Cheers.
 
Great piece of advice.
Cheers.
Final bit of advice , if you do need to remove the cable as a whole , i would bet , your be better pulling it up from the inside the cab . The gearbox end is usually smaller than the cluster end , so it will have less of snagging anything , plus there will be less resistance by refitting in a reverse way . Also the cable will pass through the engine bulkhead/floor at some point , this will usually be through a grommet . Again it will be easier to route a new cable back down from the cab , than try and push it up from the gearbox , because of the end fitting . If the cable become stuck , then stop and examine the cause , Chances are it will be the aforementioned grommet , but it could be snagged on a cable , this is the care bit i mentioned .

Finally , good luck my friend .
 
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