Styling KC3 Project Silver

[KC3]

Here was the first run at 118 at the wheels so 147.5bhp.. Engine output..

so the last run at 125 equates to 156.2bhp.. NOT BAD!!

Looking forward to the remap now..

http://www.youtube.com/my_videos_annotate?v=X9mPdKVoWDs

 

[KC3]

Had a look at some of my old RR graphs and noticed that the measured wheel torque has changed and risen from the original start.
97.8 ft-lb at 136.7 bhp
105.7 ft-lb at 150.5bhp
107.4 ft-lb at 151.1bhp
148 ft-lb at 156.2bhp

and with the turbo was.
149.9 ft-lb at 185.6bhp
154.9 ft-lb at 188.8bhp..

Anyone know exactly what this means.. Seems my non turbo B shares simmilar torque values..

 

[afroking]

What did you do to the n/a engine to get from 151.1 to 156.2 hp?

 

[HP]

Is the last NA figure right? Going from 107.4 ft-lb & 151.1bhp to 148 ft-lb & 156.2bhp suggests something might be amiss. I'd expect a 35% increase in torque to give a lot more than 5.1 extra bhp.

 

[KC3]

Pete, Thanks
Ok, looking at the graph again its reads ( Eng Torque T WC(N-M) 148

is this mesurement for something else..

I,ll try and upload the copy when I can..

 

[HP]

Ah, 148 NM converts to approx. 110 lb/ft - makes sense

 

[KC3]

Afroking,

Mods Ive done since the 151.1bhp to the 156-

Removed the 200cel catt,
4kg titanium flywheel
Black Diamond Clutch
New belts, pulleys and variator

I think they have all helped but I can say I noticed a considerable difference with removing the catt

Ive just ordered a 85-150 BMC closed Filter and proposing to make an induction like the Doc's but not sure if it will make any difference power wise but should help add cool air to the engine.

The B's map was off too since these changes, so hope to see some extra gain after the remap.
I,m also going to port and polish my throttle body so will let you know how it all goes.

 

[KC3]

Ah, 148 NM converts to approx. 110 lb/ft - makes sense

UHm, Ok. Thanks.
Good to know you know all these facts.

 

[HP]

Yes, you're right. I need to get out more

 

[KC3]

Anyone have experience with these small slimline race batterys,
Changing my induction over to a enclosed CDA Filter but the battery is in the way.

I either have to get it sited into the boot or alternately been looking at these small slimline batterys, Will be alot easier than having to run heavy cables through to the back..

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/batteries

 

[Dave-M]

My mate has a vw buggy 1600 cc he has a slim battery got it off the auction site didn't pay as much as Demon tweeks are quoting, I will ask him for the details, I was thinking of getting one for the same reason as yourself, but my battery is only a year old, so I will keep it for a while.
I think if you had one of these batteries you could get rid of the battery tray also.

 

[KC3]

Yep! Thats the idea, Removal of the tray and weight,

Some research into the batterys has led me to discover that although some may even be more powerfull than a battery twice its size, they dont like a small discharge to be left on them when the vehicle is parked. ie, car alarm, radio, This can reduce the lifespan of the battery and the agent reccomended the battery is left on a trickle charge or disconnected when the vehicle is not in use.

Hence why they are used for race car applications.
Although i have found that the slightly more exspensive batterys from Braille
seem to have overcome this.

http://www.braillebattery.co.uk/index.php/batteries/b2317/

 

[KC3]

Ok! Ordered my new battery, The Braille 2317R, 16.6lb and 6.8x4inches so will have lots of space for my new BMC CDA filter and have reduced some weight at the same time..

 

[KC3]

Hiya all

The B has been on the lift today and recieved lots of new parts.

TRW Front control Arms
QH Rear Wheel Bearings
Rear Swing Arm Bushes and Bearings
New Rear Caliper Bolts
Front ABS Sensor

 

[bollie69]

Hehe sounds like you had a day work.

Nice job btw too bad you don't have pics during the process

 

[KC3]

Yer, sorry about the how to pics,
Changed the oil today and discovered that my sump plug has nackered its thread and wont tighten up.

Will now need to drain the oil again, send my sump to a lathe turner to have the plug re thread. .

 

[bollie69]

Yer, sorry about the how to pics,
Changed the oil today and discovered that my sump plug has nackered its thread and wont tighten up.

Will now need to drain the oil again, send my sump to a lathe turner to have the plug re thread. .

You tightened it to much. The sump plug don't needs too much tightening. Always use a rachet with nanometer (name? in english)

helicoil will be mutch stronger if done correctly
The original most likely fails one time as the alloy of the sump is too weak.

Btw, I'v got a sump plug on the same engine the head is comming off.
Still filled with oil

 

[paganeli panda]

the guy i got the car from, who is a Fiat mechanic actually gave me an extra plug just in case

 

[bollie69]

the guy i got the car from, who is a Fiat mechanic actually gave me an extra plug just in case

The srew is ss ( I think), it's the treath on the sump that fails

 

[KC3]

Thanks Guys,
Yes! Its the sump that has worn, The actual plug is Ok.
The turner will mill the threads, put something he calls a spring in the existing hole and remill I think, I should be able to use the same plug with no problems.