Hello all. Need a more experienced mechanics opinion:
I have just done the cambelt on my '99 marea JTD105
I am a tad confused: how do I know when the tension is right? jtdsteve says line the arrow up with the index hole in the slider bracket. This is nearly where the tensioner was positioned with the old belt on. I took the tensioner off, then the belt, and renewed the belt and put the tensioner back on in the same position. BUT I found when I cranked the motor over 2 revolutions, the tensioner moved (the internal spring) and the belt jumped a tooth. Belt off, timing marks repositioned then took up slack with tensioner, this time putting it much tighter and farther accross than it was with the old belt. Cranked it over and it didn't jump this time. Felt the belt: between the camshaft sprocket and the sprocket driving the fuel pump, the belt can be depressed about 6mm, and the same in the other places where the tension can be felt.
IS THIS TOO TIGHT, or OK?
The car runs fine, and the tensioner bearing seems pretty quiet. But I am baffled as to why the tensioner is now much further left (about 1cm along the slider) and therefore tighter than it was with the old belt, in order to take up enough slack to avoid tooth jumping. CAN ANYONE ADVISE?
ALSO, for future DIY reference I advise a few considerations when following jtdsteve's very useful post https://www.fiatforum.com/marea-technical/74018-jtd-110-cambelt.html I did not use a kit, I see absolutely no use for it. Before old belt off: The marker on the Cam sprocket is perfectly clear and has a corresponding pointy triangle at 1 o'clock on the engine casing. With this aligned, I then made 3 pen marks on the crank pulley with one corresponding to the notch beneath it in the engine casing, and made two more marks at 9 and 3 o'clock with corresponding pen marks on the casing beyond.
In this way, it is quite possible to see if the belt is on right if the marks all line up again after 2 revolutions cranking by hand.
But the bit about: "12) Adjust tensioner so the little pointer points at the index hole above the slot, and lock in place. 25Nm, & new nut or threadlock recommended!" Made no sense to me, as with the tensioner like that, the belt was far too slack. Strange.
Apart from these points, and that the fitment of Ribe bolts throughout by fiat is ****ing ridiculous, jtdsteve's advice is very sound.
Anyway, any thoughts on this matter are very welcome.
Cheers,
Lee.
I have just done the cambelt on my '99 marea JTD105
I am a tad confused: how do I know when the tension is right? jtdsteve says line the arrow up with the index hole in the slider bracket. This is nearly where the tensioner was positioned with the old belt on. I took the tensioner off, then the belt, and renewed the belt and put the tensioner back on in the same position. BUT I found when I cranked the motor over 2 revolutions, the tensioner moved (the internal spring) and the belt jumped a tooth. Belt off, timing marks repositioned then took up slack with tensioner, this time putting it much tighter and farther accross than it was with the old belt. Cranked it over and it didn't jump this time. Felt the belt: between the camshaft sprocket and the sprocket driving the fuel pump, the belt can be depressed about 6mm, and the same in the other places where the tension can be felt.
IS THIS TOO TIGHT, or OK?
The car runs fine, and the tensioner bearing seems pretty quiet. But I am baffled as to why the tensioner is now much further left (about 1cm along the slider) and therefore tighter than it was with the old belt, in order to take up enough slack to avoid tooth jumping. CAN ANYONE ADVISE?
ALSO, for future DIY reference I advise a few considerations when following jtdsteve's very useful post https://www.fiatforum.com/marea-technical/74018-jtd-110-cambelt.html I did not use a kit, I see absolutely no use for it. Before old belt off: The marker on the Cam sprocket is perfectly clear and has a corresponding pointy triangle at 1 o'clock on the engine casing. With this aligned, I then made 3 pen marks on the crank pulley with one corresponding to the notch beneath it in the engine casing, and made two more marks at 9 and 3 o'clock with corresponding pen marks on the casing beyond.
In this way, it is quite possible to see if the belt is on right if the marks all line up again after 2 revolutions cranking by hand.
But the bit about: "12) Adjust tensioner so the little pointer points at the index hole above the slot, and lock in place. 25Nm, & new nut or threadlock recommended!" Made no sense to me, as with the tensioner like that, the belt was far too slack. Strange.
Apart from these points, and that the fitment of Ribe bolts throughout by fiat is ****ing ridiculous, jtdsteve's advice is very sound.
Anyway, any thoughts on this matter are very welcome.
Cheers,
Lee.