Technical Inner anti-roll bar bushings

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Technical Inner anti-roll bar bushings

quaffle

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I've just seen that the ball joint rubber where the control arm meets the wheel hub is split. It's new lower control arm time.

Since the anti-roll bar has to be disconnected, I might as well change the rubber bushings. The outer ones (near the wheel that bolt to the control arm) seem simple enough. How do I swap the inner ones though (the ones that are attached to the subframe)? Do I have to remove the anti-roll bar completely and then fight them off?

Cheers for any advice, guys.
 
Outer bushes are easy enough if changing the control arms as you’re putting new arms on, then put new bushes on as well and I’d recommend using new bolts.

As for the inner ones, be very cautious. Firstly the bolts like to shear off in the subframe and then you’ll spend a very long time trying to remove what’s then left stuck in the sub frame. On my old mk2b I ended up drilling them out with colbalt drill bits then had to replace all the bolts again with new ones.

I’d recommend spending plenty of time soaking all the bolts in penetrating fluid for days if not weeks before you intend to do the work
 
If the ball joint is OK you can get some after market rubber boots. Saves you the hassle of alignment.

On the Bravo the ARB bush clamps can be chiseled apart or drilled. Punto is likely to be the same.

https://www.fiatforum.com/bravo/463527-worn-wishbone-control-arm-bushes.html

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Thank you for the advice. I didn't know you could get replacement ball joint boots as the Haynes manual says you cannot. Looking on eBay it seem that they are universal boots that you get in a kit and just kind of size up the best one and slip it on.

Outer bushes are easy enough if changing the control arms as you’re putting new arms on, then put new bushes on as well and I’d recommend using new bolts.

As for the inner ones, be very cautious. Firstly the bolts like to shear off in the subframe and then you’ll spend a very long time trying to remove what’s then left stuck in the sub frame. On my old mk2b I ended up drilling them out with colbalt drill bits then had to replace all the bolts again with new ones.

I’d recommend spending plenty of time soaking all the bolts in penetrating fluid for days if not weeks before you intend to do the work

I hadn't considered the fact that they bolts on the inner bushes might be difficult to get out. Do you think it's worth the hassle or shall I just leave what's all ready in place there?
 
Thank you for the advice. I didn't know you could get replacement ball joint boots as the Haynes manual says you cannot. Looking on eBay it seem that they are universal boots that you get in a kit and just kind of size up the best one and slip it on.

I have boots 1 and 4 (from measuring them today)


I got the boots a few years ago. I cannot recall how I went about specifying my order for those boots. They do look about the right size but I only just opened the packet.
 

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If the inner bushings are ok I’d probably leave them or pay someone else to do it.

With replacement boots be aware that here in the uk the rain water and road salt can very quickly wreck the joint if the boots split. So it may need replacing anyway, and if the boots have perished on one end of the control arm then the bushings on the other end of the control arm may also be badly perished.

If it’s just torn and it’s happened recently you’d probably get away with a replacement boot/gator on the joint
 
If the inner bushings are ok I’d probably leave them or pay someone else to do it.

With replacement boots be aware that here in the uk the rain water and road salt can very quickly wreck the joint if the boots split. So it may need replacing anyway, and if the boots have perished on one end of the control arm then the bushings on the other end of the control arm may also be badly perished.

If it’s just torn and it’s happened recently you’d probably get away with a replacement boot/gator on the joint

Thanks, Andy. I just picked up a set of new arms. They were only about £30 each for some ones from FAG (brand). Figured it would just be easier to swap them as I've still got to disconnect the arm from the hub knuckle to swap the boot and that looked just as fiddly.
 
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