Technical Indicator Light & Toggle Switch hole diameter

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Technical Indicator Light & Toggle Switch hole diameter

JumpJet

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Jan 11, 2015
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364
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Maryland
Gents,
I'm wondering if anyone knows (or can easily measure) the diameter of the holes in the dash for the indicator lights and toggle switches? Mine are a little messed up, and seem to be irregular in places. It appears they may be 15mm, but I was wondering if anyone has a cleaner example they could check.

I'm looking to clean up the dash with new switches and indicators and just need some sizes to order. I might wind up filling and re-drilling the holes first though.

Thanks!
 

the hobbler

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Jul 25, 2012
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3,332
I am not able to give you an accurate 'orifice diameter' (posh for 'hole diameter') as all my switches in fitted, and all my warning lights are in the instrument cluster (500L), but measuring the switches I have in my 'spares' box, I would say that 12mm will just give you clearance. If you are re-fitting/re-locating your toggle switches and warning lights, may I suggest that you measure one of them and make the holes to suit.
 
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JumpJet

JumpJet

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Jan 11, 2015
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364
Location
Maryland
Hi Jumpjet,

I have mine stripped out so will measure the holes up tomorrow if that is alright.

Chris

Chris,
Thank you! That'd be excellent.
Matt

I'm still debating whether to try to patch them all up and redrill like new, or just step them up to the next common size to fit nicer switches/lights. I'm very close to making my winter project ripping out all the wiring and replacing the harness with a Painless Wiring harness. Only $50 more than a repro, but much higher quality and much more modern engineering. I'm debating the rewire now or wait until an undetermined date in the future where I strip the body down for a resto and just wait till then. Decisions, decisions.
 

Fiona500f

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Oct 24, 2019
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Location
County Durham
Hi Matt,

The switches and tell tales for the indicators/headlights are measuring out at 14mm and the ignition is measuring out at 22mm. Allowing for painting over the years this may equate to original sizes of 15mm and possibly 25mm. Hope that helps.
 

F123C

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Jan 18, 2014
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I'm still debating whether to try to patch them all up and redrill like new, or just step them up to the next common size to fit nicer switches/lights. I'm very close to making my winter project ripping out all the wiring and replacing the harness with a Painless Wiring harness. Only $50 more than a repro, but much higher quality and much more modern engineering. I'm debating the rewire now or wait until an undetermined date in the future where I strip the body down for a resto and just wait till then. Decisions, decisions.

I'd caution against patching these holes and then re-drilling - if you weld them up, you risk distortion of the metal. And for what gain? - the original switches should fit just fine, if you fit aftermarket switches that require larger holes, you'll be drilling out all the metal you just welded in? Unless you want to reposition the switches, I think you'll just be bringing unnecessary work on yourself. (Just my $0.02).

Re- fitting a new wiring loom. If you intend restoring the body, I'd wait until after to fit a new loom - no point in fitting it now, then removing it for body restoration and re-fitting it again or alternatively risking messing it up by leaving it in place while doing body repairs/welding/painting.
You need to be careful about buying a wiring loom and storing it until you eventually get around to fitting it - if it's wrong in any way, you won't find this out until you go to use it and at that point the supplier might not be able/willing to supply the correct loom.

Is there much wrong with your existing loom? In my experience, Fiat wiring looms last quite well, often just renewing a few terminals that have corroded sorts out any issues. (plus saves a lot of work and expense).

Al.
 

the hobbler

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Jul 25, 2012
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3,332
Completely agree with Al---the wiring loom on my 500, a 1972 500L, is the original and so far I have only had to replace 2 terminals. So far, no other problems with it. Don't change things just for the sake of changing them. In the wise words of Ferry Porsche "if it ain't broke, don't repair it".
 
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JumpJet

JumpJet

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Joined
Jan 11, 2015
Messages
364
Location
Maryland
I hear you on the "if it ain't broke..." mantra and I generally agree completely. The problem is, I've found my loom to a bodge of L and F parts and wire colors that don't necessarily agree with any particular model's diagrams. That, combined with some desire to change some switchology, incorporate hazards, usb charging, a 3rd brake light, an alternator, and swap over to H4 lights has been pushing me to just get something to start fresh with. I've been on the fence about getting a repro harness, but a modern, design from a highly-reputable firm is very tempting, especially when the costs are damn similar.

I doubt I'll pull the trigger just yet. I've got a little time until I'm in a location to strip down the body, so I'm trying to carefully integrate what I can in a clean fashion. The crappy press-fit design of the lights (vice nuts), and my ignition that tends to slop around are going to get addressed sooner rather than later.
 
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