Technical Immobiliser Issue

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Technical Immobiliser Issue

BryanW

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Hi all, newbie to the site
i recently purchased a 2011/2012 Ducato motorhome. Drove from QLD to NSW around 14 hours and no problems at all, then went out 1 weekend again no problems.
we then had around a week of rain and then when I went to start it the immobiliser light is on and stays on. I have changed the earth strap on the gearbox, checked all fuses and fuse connections, no corrosion or dampness, changed the battery in the key fob, charged the battery and still no luck.
I have been onto a couple of known Fiat repairers and have not had any luck there either, also contacted some automotive locksmiths, same result
Has anyone had a similar problem or any ideas on what I can do next, I am thinking of purchasing a Carlabimmo bypass, has anyone used 1 of these.
cheers Bryan
 
Hi Bryan and welcome :)

I think youve covered all of the obvious things.. bit will ask 2 fundamentals

At least 2 chipped keys have been tried ?

Have you got any Error Codes related to this Immobiliser issue ?

Hopefully somebody will have experience of this in a same era Ducato

Charlie
 
Hey Charlie

only have 1 chipped key and haven’t been able to get it anywhere to see if there are any errors, just seem to get fobbed off all the time

Cheers, Bryan
 
Hi Bryan

Do you have a code card for your vehicle ? There is an emergency starting procedure which allows starting without a working key transponder (chip). It is necessary to depress the throttle in a pattern depending on the 5 digit "electronic code" number on the code card. Some sources state that it is only possible for petrol vehicles, but I believe it may actually work for diesel too. I can offer no guarantees, but it might be worth a try. If you don't have the code card the dealer network should be able to tell you the code if you can satisfy them that you are the genuine owner. This doesn't apply to the UK where cards are not issued due to an insurance industry mandate.

To start the engine the emergency start-up can be performed.

Read the whole procedure carefully before trying to carry it out. If you make a mistake, you must turn the ignition key back to STOP and repeat the whole operation from beginning.

Proceed as follows:

❒ Read the 5-figure electronic code given on the CODE card;
❒ Turn the ignition key to MAR;
❒ Press and hold down the accelerator pedal. The warning light
page.h38.gif
turns on for about 8 seconds, and then goes off;
❒ Release the accelerator pedal and get ready to count the flashes of the
page.h39.gif
warning light;
❒ Count the number of flashes that corresponds to the first figure of the code on the CODE card, then press the accelerator pedal and keep it there until the
page.h40.gif
warning light comes on (for 4 seconds) and then goes off; release the accelerator pedal;
❒ The warning light
page.h41.gif
will start flashing again: after it has flashed the number of times that corresponds to the second figure on the CODE card, press the accelerator pedal to the floor and keep it there;
❒ Do the same for the remaining figures on the CODE card;
❒ Once the final figure has been entered, keep the accelerator pedal pressed. The warning light
page.h42.gif
will light up for 4 seconds and then goes out. Release the accelerator pedal;
❒ Rapid flashing of the warning light
page.h43.gif
(for about 4 seconds) confirms the operation has been carried out successfully;
❒ Start the engine by turning the ignition key from MAR to AVV.

If however the warning light U stays on, turn the ignition key to STOP and repeat the procedure from step one

IMPORTANT After an emergency start-up, you should contact a Fiat Dealership otherwise you will have to repeat the procedure described each time you want to start the engine.
 
Yes the CODE card..

Its supposedly an Emergency start procedure..and needs a software teset to recognise the key again

To get a 2nd key build AND programmed to the vehicle USED to require the code from FIAT.. but on my 2007/9 cars it has been stored..and accessible.. from the Body Computer

So a 2nd chipped key was quick and inexpensive.


A failure of your key chip could be a prime candidate.. but there are other options
 
Hey Anthony

thanks for the info, will give it a try and let you know how it goes, I have the code so should be straight forward.

cheers
 
Just a random thought, but have you got other keys attached to the ignition key. If so its worth removing everything else (leaving key on its own) and trying again. We had a problem with another make of car a few years back , once OH removed his house keys everything worked. I assumed that the contacts get a bit worn with age and the extra weight was enough to cause a faulty contact.
 
Just a random thought, but have you got other keys attached to the ignition key. If so its worth removing everything else (leaving key on its own) and trying again. We had a problem with another make of car a few years back , once OH removed his house keys everything worked. I assumed that the contacts get a bit worn with age and the extra weight was enough to cause a faulty contact.
A good suggestion, but may I suggest that additional keys are more likely to be absorbing the weak radio signals to and from the key chip.
 
Just a random thought, but have you got other keys attached to the ignition key. If so its worth removing everything else (leaving key on its own) and trying again. We had a problem with another make of car a few years back , once OH removed his house keys everything worked. I assumed that the contacts get a bit worn with age and the extra weight was enough to cause a faulty contact.
Hi Gran
no, only the fob key, thanks for your help
Bryan
 
Wouldn't be surprised if it turns out to be the ignition lock. the immobiliser aerial is
wired through the switch and if the switch gets a bit iffy you can get problems.
The actual switch is a separate bit fitted to the actual lock
Something like this


But if you do think it's the switch make sure you get the correct one as contact size and number
can differ and they are fiddley to fit.
 
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Hi

Sorry to disagree, but although the immobiliser aerial ring is mounted around the top of the lock barrel, it has no electrical connection to the switch contacts underneath. It has its own two wires going directly to the Body Computer.

That said, if the switch contacts are unreliable it won't be helping.
 
That's interesting as on my Panda I am pretty sure it does, I've had it
in bits twice due to the immobiliser not disarming and a new switch
cured it I did think I traced two of the wires and was sure they
went to the aerial, will have to re check if I ever have it in bits again.
 
Hi

Sorry to disagree, but although the immobiliser aerial ring is mounted around the top of the lock barrel, it has no electrical connection to the switch contacts underneath. It has its own two wires going directly to the Body Computer.

That said, if the switch contacts are unreliable it won't be helping.
Hi Anthony
i have checked the contacts on the immobiliser ring and both seem fine, gave the a spray with contact cleaner also.
stuck at home with stupid Covid at the moment, might get a chance to try some stuff next week
cheers
 
That's interesting as on my Panda I am pretty sure it does, I've had it
in bits twice due to the immobiliser not disarming and a new switch
cured it I did think I traced two of the wires and was sure they
went to the aerial, will have to re check if I ever have it in bits again.
Hi Ralph
thanks for the reply but this is on a Ducato, has an immobile ring that sits around the key barrel, have checked the connections and seem okay
cheers
 
The Diesel Panda like mine uses the same switch with 5 connections,
the contacts that burn are inside the switch you may be able to blast
a bit of switch cleaner into the actual switch the black bit on the opposite
end to the key.
 
Interesting theory, but I also have to disagree. The link in post #11 is to a 7 contact ignition switch. It seems to have identical connections to the ignition switch on my x244, and from the few diagrams for the X250 that I have collected, it appears identical to those on that model.
As has already been confirmed, the aerial ring does not connect via the ignition switch, but connects directly to the BCM.

A possible explanation the effect observed by @RalphM, is that perhaps his BCM was being starved of power by a faulty ignition switch, and hence failing to function correctly.
 
Hi all, newbie to the site
i recently purchased a 2011/2012 Ducato motorhome. Drove from QLD to NSW around 14 hours and no problems at all, then went out 1 weekend again no problems.
we then had around a week of rain and then when I went to start it the immobiliser light is on and stays on. I have changed the earth strap on the gearbox, checked all fuses and fuse connections, no corrosion or dampness, changed the battery in the key fob, charged the battery and still no luck.
I have been onto a couple of known Fiat repairers and have not had any luck there either, also contacted some automotive locksmiths, same result
Has anyone had a similar problem or any ideas on what I can do next, I am thinking of purchasing a Carlabimmo bypass, has anyone used 1 of these.
cheers Bryan
You can start your van on a 5 digit code which will override the imobiliser. If you have not got the code in your paperwork then l got mine from Lipscombe with the chassis number. My problem was solved by RMS Diagnostics in Sanwich kent. Bob, repaired and recoded two ecu's and keys. Now starts with both keys. No yellow light anymore but, a new dedicated 5 digit code.
Regards
Gary
 
You can start your van on a 5 digit code which will override the imobiliser. If you have not got the code in your paperwork then l got mine from Lipscombe with the chassis number. My problem was solved by RMS Diagnostics in Sanwich kent. Bob, repaired and recoded two ecu's and keys. Now starts with both keys. No yellow light anymore but, a new dedicated 5 digit code.
Regards
Gary
See post #4 of this thread.
 
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