Technical identify the plug anyone??

[adamski1]

this plug maybee the cause of why the sporting will not start,no fuel pump working but turning over,this plug was located round the back of the engine between the throttle body and coil pack and i cant seem to find anything for it to plug into,one theory is that the head/engine could have been changed for a non cam sensor type and this could be the plug,would this cause the problem?

 

[bigbrava]

its deffo a sensor plug but looks too short and on the wrong side to be a cam sensor plug because your cam is at the opposite end of the engine but the plug is by the coil pack , easiest way for sure is to check the engine number you have on the engine block itself and contact fiat, if they cant help any decent motor factors should be able to tell you if that lump didnt belong in there against the chassis number, also i would look in the haynes wiring section and check out the colour codes for that plug and it should tell where or what it connects to and what its for.

 

[bigbrava]

ive had a look into your problem and that plug will not stop the fuel pump from operating, what you need to do is lift up the back seat exposing a cover with 3 screws, remove the screws then lift the cover off. you now can see the fuel pump with a multi wire plug attached and fuel pipe also, take off the plug and using a dc volt meter probe the black lead onto an earth point (on a rear seat belt bolt will do) then probe (red one) into each pin in the plug alternatley while someone is turning the ignition to (mar) or just ignition lights on repeatedly and have them keep doing that while you are probing the plug with the red probe lead (what you are looking for is a sudding change in voltage (12 to 13 volts).... if you see zero volts on your meter after doing all the pin holes in the plug while someone is repeatedly turning the ignition on/off/on/off/on/off blah blah blah then your problem is the pump isnt getting any power, if on the other hand you do see some volts then your problem will be the fuel pump itself. that plug you have hanging around will not stop your fuel pump from working so you need to carry out the check i have told you first.

report back what happens then we can move on from there.

 

[adamski1]

update on this ive been and changed from a running car all the ecu,key,and all thats needed and still no pump,and checked there is no spark,would the crank sensor stop all this from working?

 

[bigbrava]

quite simply no it wouldnt, have you checked the fuel cut off switch located behind passenger front left panel just below glovebox, also check the pump relay located in the engine bay usually a large black box with removable lid and contains several fuses and relays.

 

[adamski1]

yes the fuel reset has been reset,and i checked the fuses/relays just strange that theres no spark or fuel,cant be immobilised as the ecu swap i did worked previously and worked fine after,but not on this car:bang:

 

[Ziggy122]

Does the keycode light come on and then go off pretty quickly from ignition?
If no light - i'd be worried
If light on then off = all okay
Light stays on = Code read

Ziggy

 

[adamski1]

all the lights come on then some go off the code light goes out then all im left with is the overheating red light above the temp guage and the steering wheel light then when turning over the clocks flash on and off

 

[Ziggy122]

all the lights come on then some go off the code light goes out then all im left with is the overheating red light above the temp guage and the steering wheel light then when turning over the clocks flash on and off

Does the clock flash all the time or only on crank?
If its only on crank - then its a battery issue
The clock shouldnt dim or flash, it should turn over nice and healthy

If its flashing all the time - its had a ECU swap probably, as the dash is out of alignment with the rest of the car

Ziggy

 

[adamski1]

just flashing on crank,and i fitted all the stuff off a good running car inc clocks and still flashed,will try adding some earths ie from the ecu,engine,box its got to be some sort of wiring issue.

 

[adamski1]

got it running now with an additional earth from the ecu to battery (must be a break)but still got clocks dimming/going off when heater fan is turned on,so could still be earthing problem somewhere?

 

[fingers99]

got it running now with an additional earth from the ecu to battery (must be a break)but still got clocks dimming/going off when heater fan is turned on,so could still be earthing problem somewhere?

Almost certainly a poor earth. The trick will be finding which one.

 

[adamski1]

well i have my work cut out but this will definately help

K143 AC compressor clutch relay
S369 AC refrigerant quadruple pressure switch
B138 Accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor
31 Battery -
30 Battery +
B132 Camshaft position (CMP) sensor
S258 Clutch pedal position (CPP) switch
CAN Controller area network (data bus)
B54 Crankshaft position (CKP) sensor
X1 Data link connector (DLC)
EP Earth point
K46 Engine control (EC) relay
A35 Engine control module (ECM)
K12-I Engine coolant blower motor relay 1
K12-II Engine coolant blower motor relay 2
B24 Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor
H63 Engine malfunction indicator lamp (MIL)
S389 Engine oil pressure switch
Y104 Evaporative emission (EVAP) canister purge valve
M12 Fuel pump (FP)
K20 Fuel pump (FP) relay
F Fuse
X28-II Fuse box/relay plate, engine bay
X28-I Fuse box/relay plate, fascia
B196 G-force sensor, longitudinal
B72 Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S)
B72-I Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 1 - before cat
B72-II Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 2 - after cat
T1 Ignition coil
15 Ignition switch - ignition ON
S39 Inertia fuel shut-off (IFS) switch
Y3 Injector
A5 Instrument panel
A75 Instrumentation control module
B25 Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor
B69 Knock sensor (KS)
B83 Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor
A11 Multifunction control module
W11 Spare cable
A177 Throttle control unit
M89 Throttle motor
B169 Throttle motor position sensor
A57 Transmission control module (TCM)
B33 Vehicle speed sensor (VSS)