Technical hi guys i have a 2017 ducato 130 that is showing strange readings on a multimeter on the battery terminals with the engine running see attached video

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Technical hi guys i have a 2017 ducato 130 that is showing strange readings on a multimeter on the battery terminals with the engine running see attached video

ken page

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https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrOumcWrENuwyCNy5HwBs2w thanks guys in advance... i should have explained this better the ign light comes on as it should when the ignition is turned on when its started the ign light goes out as it should but according to the multimeter the battery is not charging what do you think . I dont let it run long as i am paranoid about the seat belt ecu blowing as you will see the voltage drops very quickly but returns to 12.5v volts a few mins after turning the engine off all fuses checked and are ok
 
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https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrOumcWrENuwyCNy5HwBs2w thanks guys in advance... i should have explained this better the ign light comes on as it should when the ignition is turned on when its started the ign light goes out as it should but according to the multimeter the battery is not charging what do you think . I dont let it run long as i am paranoid about the seat belt ecu blowing as you will see the voltage drops very quickly but returns to 12.5v volts a few mins after turning the engine off all fuses checked and are ok
Hi,
Indeed that looks strange.
Replace the battery in your multi meter with a new battery and recheck vehicle.
Please let us know.
Best wishes
Jack
 
Hi

I am going to assume that you DON'T have a smart alternator system fitted, as normal rules go out of the window if you do have one.

The warning light going out suggests that the Alternator itself is working, but the connection to the battery has a problem.

Sometimes digital meters are affected by electrical noise on car systems, but that tends to give readings which dart all over the place. Yours are steady which suggests they are genuine. As Jack suggests, to be completely sure it would be a good idea to try with a fresh battery in your meter.

You are seeing about the right voltage for a good battery with the engine off (12.5 volts), and it's dropping a little when being asked to supply the load from the engine management etc when the engine is running, i.e. it would appear to be discharging rather than charging. One would expect to see something more like 14.0 to 14.5 volts across the battery terminals when the engine is running (even at idling) and the battery is charging.

Assuming the re-test shows the same result, I guess you need to find out why there is no charge from the Alternator. I suggest the first quick check is to look at the large fuses and connections clustered around the battery positive pole, and the battery connections themselves. Any signs of corrosion or looseness is a no-no. I attach a schematic for a 2008 charging setup, which will give you the general idea.

The second check is the battery negative to body/chassis connection and the link strap from body/chassis to engine/gearbox (under the air filter on the passenger side (RHD).

The third basic check would be to measure the voltage right at the Alternator main D+ output (Largest Terminal/Cable) with the other meter probe on a scraped clean part the engine/gearbox block. You may find it's easier to use some probes or probe extenders with crocodile clips or something similar, to keep your hands safely out of the way. You should see 14.0 to 14.5 volts here once the engine is running. Any appreciable difference between the Alternator and Battery readings would point to a bad fuse or connection between them. Note that the main Alternator output (D+) is wired via a short link within the starter motor. Assuming your starter works OK, it would be best to concentrate on the Alternator to Starter cable. And yes, I do appreciate that the Alternator is buried under the back of the engine and that it's January !
 

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thanks for the replies guys there is a new battery in the tester i use 2 different testers , i have checked all fuses and run a temp earth strap using a jump cable but its still the same ,i did try to have a look at the alternator but its parked on my drive which is like brighton beach so bit dangerous to jack it up at home i will move it to somewhere else and post what i find again many thanks
 
ok guys an update started it up this morning and watched the meter going down to 11.8 and then gave it a bootfull in temper and the meter went up to 14.4 volts and stays there in idle i have no idea why its a shame it dont change its own cam belt ..thank for the replies and advice (y)
 
Perhaps the alternator is slow to get going? I had a 2015 2.3 130 that would not start to charge at first start up unless the revs were raised to 1200rpm. It would then be ok for the rest of the day. The ignition lamp did stay on though until it started to charge, unlike yours which I think you said goes out whilst still not charging? Anyway I never did get to the bottom of it but all technicians etc suspected the alternator.
 
With one correction I fully endorse the contribution from @Anthony489. There is a small but important error in his statement quoted below.
The third basic check would be to measure the voltage right at the Alternator main D+ output (Largest Terminal/Cable)
The main output terminal is of course B+, while the smaller D+ is the alternator field terminal.

I only mention this for accuracy, and because what follows concerns the D+ point, and I want to avoid any confusion.

Ken, the OP, has not mentioned whether or not his vehicle is a motorhome, or did I overlook such a statement? I ask because many motorhome 12V electrics take a supply from the D+ point to operate split charge and fridge relays. A satellite dish could also place a load on the D+ supply.

Motor vehicle alternators do not have significant permanent magnetism in the rotor (field). They need some help to get started (technically build up), which is provided from the battery, via the ignition switch and the warning light, which completes its circuit through the regulator, and field winding. Abscence, or diversion of this small current through split charge and other relays will make the alternator fail to build up at tickover speeds. This is the lazy alternator symptom, described above by @rayc.

So if the vehicle is a motor caravan, I suggest checking what is actually connected to the D+, as too many items connected, will produce the symptoms described.

Further possible causes could be internal bad connections within the alternator, or a possible faulty diode pack.

As a footnote, may I mention reading an article in the motorhome magazine MMM many years ago. The contributor had the D+ extended to a too convenient terminal, to which he added other inappropriate loads. His altenator eventually refused to start generating below about 3000 rpm.
 
hi yes indeed it is a motorhome but it has no add on,s it is as factory but i will add that the 12 v element in the fridge is new
 
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