Technical Headlights on a 3 door
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Technical Headlights on a 3 door
You need to remove the bumper. 
When I've replaced the headlamps/bulbs I also end up removing the front crash bar but I can't remember if that's a necessity or just so I can clean things up. That's just 4 (I think ) M8 or M10 bolts.. so no bother.
The front bumper is supported by a couple of black plastic "ears" under the headlamps and those obscure one of the headlamp bolts or prevent the headlamp lugs from clearing, so those have to come off too... but they're held on with self-tapper bolts.. so all just simple unbolting.
Before fitting new headlamps, since you've gone to a bit of bother and The Darkness is coming.. fit all new bulbs so they'll last all winter and saves you faffing about for a blown bulb a few weeks from now.
And if your "new" headlamps are Used items and/or don't come with the level adjuster motors, I would fit new ones of those too, when you have everything apart. They're an MOT item now and since nobody ever uses them, the reflectors can seize and knacker the motors, or they just die one day and nobody notices. They're not too dear on Fleabay.
Lastly, the headlamps are positioned against the body with two rod "pins" (bolts). This "pin" has a nut/flange half way along it. The idea is this it screws into the car, then the headlamp lug is located against the flange with a nut on the other end of the pin, to hold it in place. It allows minor adjustment, so the headlamp tightens up against something solid.
If your nuts/pins are a bit rusty, so the retaining nut breaks off the end of the pin, then you'll be unable to tighten the headlamp lug up. One of mine died this way, so I had to rig up a regular bolt with nuts/washers on, to replicate the same result.. but it might be easier to buy new ones to have handy before you start.
No. 6 in the diagram .. part number 46800136
Four in total on the car.. Fiat sells them in packs of 5.
Ralf S.
When I've replaced the headlamps/bulbs I also end up removing the front crash bar but I can't remember if that's a necessity or just so I can clean things up. That's just 4 (I think ) M8 or M10 bolts.. so no bother.
The front bumper is supported by a couple of black plastic "ears" under the headlamps and those obscure one of the headlamp bolts or prevent the headlamp lugs from clearing, so those have to come off too... but they're held on with self-tapper bolts.. so all just simple unbolting.
Before fitting new headlamps, since you've gone to a bit of bother and The Darkness is coming.. fit all new bulbs so they'll last all winter and saves you faffing about for a blown bulb a few weeks from now.
And if your "new" headlamps are Used items and/or don't come with the level adjuster motors, I would fit new ones of those too, when you have everything apart. They're an MOT item now and since nobody ever uses them, the reflectors can seize and knacker the motors, or they just die one day and nobody notices. They're not too dear on Fleabay.
Lastly, the headlamps are positioned against the body with two rod "pins" (bolts). This "pin" has a nut/flange half way along it. The idea is this it screws into the car, then the headlamp lug is located against the flange with a nut on the other end of the pin, to hold it in place. It allows minor adjustment, so the headlamp tightens up against something solid.
If your nuts/pins are a bit rusty, so the retaining nut breaks off the end of the pin, then you'll be unable to tighten the headlamp lug up. One of mine died this way, so I had to rig up a regular bolt with nuts/washers on, to replicate the same result.. but it might be easier to buy new ones to have handy before you start.
No. 6 in the diagram .. part number 46800136
Four in total on the car.. Fiat sells them in packs of 5.
Ralf S.
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Many thanks for that Ralf, yes a 5 minute job to take the bumper off which somehow took me about 2 hours, but it's off . Only need to drill and retap most of the threads and it'll fit on again fine .
So here's the next question, how does the multi pin wiring connector come off ?. Do I prise it, twist it, or what ?. Not too fussed about damaging the old headlights, but don't want to damage the connector as it has to fit on to the new ones
Cheers
would post some pictures but forgot how to do it
. Only need to drill and retap most of the threads and it'll fit on again fine .So here's the next question, how does the multi pin wiring connector come off ?. Do I prise it, twist it, or what ?. Not too fussed about damaging the old headlights, but don't want to damage the connector as it has to fit on to the new ones
Cheers
would post some pictures but forgot how to do it
Okay, worked that one out once I had my close up specs on, just a big 'C' clip.
Are the level adjusters essential ?. The new ones don't have them and I'm not certain the old ones were working anyway.
If I set the aim adjusters up right surely that's good enough ?
In any case, how does the little connector come apart ?, tried wiggling, levering etc, and its stuck fast.
Are the level adjusters essential ?. The new ones don't have them and I'm not certain the old ones were working anyway
.If I set the aim adjusters up right surely that's good enough ?
In any case, how does the little connector come apart ?, tried wiggling, levering etc, and its stuck fast.
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The headlamp aim adjusters have to work, in order for the car to pass its MOT these days. It was one of the May 2018 changes, which also included checks that the ABS light came on and then went out, rather than just wasn't lit.
My car passed its 2018/9 MOT with inoperative adjusters (the aim was set to he correct position obviously) so I think I got lucky that year... but then it failed in 2019/20 once the MOT testers started getting used to checking it.
Fitting the adjusters is fiddly rather than difficult. There's rod with a ball end that has to clip into a socket or cup on the back of the reflector but you have to do it with your fingers halfway inside the headlamp. Support the reflector so the force doesn't pop it out of it's "hinges".
From memory, it was easier if you wind the adjuster in to its "furthest in" position (I think you only have to push the rod in). If you have an old adjuster you can dismantle it, to see how it works first.
Have a look at your old Bosch ones. They'll have a yellow sticker with a number like: 0307853303 on them.. then search for that number to find compatible ones. The same motor appears to feature in Mazdas and also Seat/Audi/VW etc. listings, so it's fairly common. I think mine were from an advert for "Seat Alhambra".
Anyway.. I've seen them from about £20 a pair (not Bosch ones) up to stupid money (£300 etc.) on eBay.. but the Bosch ones seem to be about £20 each now, and would probably out-last the rest of the car.
Ralf S.
My car passed its 2018/9 MOT with inoperative adjusters (the aim was set to he correct position obviously) so I think I got lucky that year... but then it failed in 2019/20 once the MOT testers started getting used to checking it.
Fitting the adjusters is fiddly rather than difficult. There's rod with a ball end that has to clip into a socket or cup on the back of the reflector but you have to do it with your fingers halfway inside the headlamp. Support the reflector so the force doesn't pop it out of it's "hinges".
From memory, it was easier if you wind the adjuster in to its "furthest in" position (I think you only have to push the rod in). If you have an old adjuster you can dismantle it, to see how it works first.
Have a look at your old Bosch ones. They'll have a yellow sticker with a number like: 0307853303 on them.. then search for that number to find compatible ones. The same motor appears to feature in Mazdas and also Seat/Audi/VW etc. listings, so it's fairly common. I think mine were from an advert for "Seat Alhambra".
Anyway.. I've seen them from about £20 a pair (not Bosch ones) up to stupid money (£300 etc.) on eBay.. but the Bosch ones seem to be about £20 each now, and would probably out-last the rest of the car.
Ralf S.
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Spot on with the MoT, it's there under 4.1.5 (it's not that I didn't believe you but I like to see these things for myself). That said, it can only be a subjective test as otherwise you'd need 3 fat peolple sat in the back to see if it actually made much difference , and one of mine has the 0307853303 number on it.
Anyway, I am fairly certain mine don't work, and have never worked on this car in the 2 years I've had it. If that's a critiscm of my local MoT tester than yes that's right, but as he seems to gayly fail cars on suspension, brake and steering issues, I am certain he tests the other criteria more carefully. As the car is currently in France I'm optimistic that the French CT (MoT) won't spot it as I'm putting opposite dipping headlights in, as hopefully they'll be impressed that someones bought some nice shiny new Headlights rather than stick some black tape on RHD ones.
Only need to be able to get the small connector off of the back of the adjusters to finish the job. If it doesn't come off in one piece, the new headlights have new connectors in them.
Cheers
, and one of mine has the 0307853303 number on it.Anyway, I am fairly certain mine don't work, and have never worked on this car in the 2 years I've had it. If that's a critiscm of my local MoT tester than yes that's right, but as he seems to gayly fail cars on suspension, brake and steering issues, I am certain he tests the other criteria more carefully
. As the car is currently in France I'm optimistic that the French CT (MoT) won't spot it as I'm putting opposite dipping headlights in, as hopefully they'll be impressed that someones bought some nice shiny new Headlights rather than stick some black tape on RHD ones.Only need to be able to get the small connector off of the back of the adjusters to finish the job. If it doesn't come off in one piece, the new headlights have new connectors in them.
Cheers
So, new headlights in without the adjusters, just held from pivoting by cable ties so they didn't shake about, and manually set against the garage door. Everything back together with new stainless bolts in most places, and some drilling and retapping in others .
Discovered underneath that 2 of the exhaust mounts were virtually rotted off so they're now supported with extra weld, and gave most of the underneath some underseal spray and paint.
Presented it for the CT this afternoon (French MoT) and amazingly it passed. Have to say amazingly as the air bag light now keeps coming on if you move the passenger seat, and needs it slid to and fro to make it go out. Anyway, pass it did, so it's good for another 2 years (CT lasts 2 years).
Bit of a weird test whereby they put it onto a vibrating table which gave 'computerised' results presumably of testing the shocks/springs ?. They also checked the oil level before doing the emissions, and the tyre pressures before braking. Not seen that done in the UK.
So I'm a happy bunny, and onto getting French plates now
.Discovered underneath that 2 of the exhaust mounts were virtually rotted off so they're now supported with extra weld, and gave most of the underneath some underseal spray and paint.
Presented it for the CT this afternoon (French MoT) and amazingly it passed. Have to say amazingly as the air bag light now keeps coming on if you move the passenger seat, and needs it slid to and fro to make it go out. Anyway, pass it did, so it's good for another 2 years (CT lasts 2 years).
Bit of a weird test whereby they put it onto a vibrating table which gave 'computerised' results presumably of testing the shocks/springs ?. They also checked the oil level before doing the emissions, and the tyre pressures before braking. Not seen that done in the UK.
So I'm a happy bunny
, and onto getting French plates now 
