Tuning GT Noob question and Potholes.

[dageneral]

Hit a pothole on monday there and caused a bit of damage so just bought the following:

O/S/F Engine mount
O/S/F Driveshaft
Front mounted intercooler and pipes
Stainless steel downpipe with flexi

......................

Anyway i was wondering how i coould get a rough estimate of what bhp i should be expecting, i will be going to rolling road in the next month or 2 but was wondering what i could expect, i have the following (and will assume FMIC is fitted)

Seb0 GT Chip
Stainless Steel straight through from turbo back
Baileys dump valve
Ram Air Induction kit
Manual boost controller usually sitting on 1.2bar
Coupe Turbo Injectors
Front mounted intercooler
Uprated plugs and magnecor leads

Im not sure what other work has been done but will find out when i order my kent cam kit a we will have a look

 

[bredsticz]

You can apparently claim some costs of damage caused by potholes

 

[DaveMcT]

You wont get anything with all that damage

By the way, a ram-air intake does 100% of nothing on a rolling road. And as you have a turbo, it does 100% of nothing at any time, because the turbo waste gate regulates the manifold pressure.

They are all about style (which is fine) see below**

Potholes are a modern day hazard for tyres/wheels but something deep enough to rip the engine mount is serious s**t and needs to be fixed before it kills someone.

Claim for the costs from the council ASAP or they wont accept responsibility.

** Top end sports bikes (which don't have a turbo) do have a ram air intake at the front of the fairing. On a 600 that makes 120bhp (yes really) these intakes only add a couple of bhp when the bike is flat out (150mph+). But even then, they are more about showing the numbers than any usable performance gain.
Sports bikes compete and sell on the performance specs even though most will never ever get used into the top 50% of their power curve.

 

[dageneral]

You wont get anything with all that damage

By the way, a ram-air intake does 100% of nothing on a rolling road. And as you have a turbo, it does 100% of nothing at any time, because the turbo waste gate regulates the manifold pressure.

They are all about style (which is fine) see below**

Potholes are a modern day hazard for tyres/wheels but something deep enough to rip the engine mount is serious s**t and needs to be fixed before it kills someone.

Claim for the costs from the council ASAP or they wont accept responsibility.

** Top end sports bikes (which don't have a turbo) do have a ram air intake at the front of the fairing. On a 600 that makes 120bhp (yes really) these intakes only add a couple of bhp when the bike is flat out (150mph+). But even then, they are more about showing the numbers than any usable performance gain.
Sports bikes compete and sell on the performance specs even though most will never ever get used into the top 50% of their power curve.

I didnt want a damaged guess, the shaft and mount is on its way and the old ones arent completely damaged im still drivin the car no prob, but they have been ordered, the front mounted intercooler and pipes have arrived, also managed to pick up a ss downpipe and flexi as the flexi was the most damaged thing and got a turbo smart dual boost controller with rocket switch so cant wait to get that on too, was just looking for a rough idea of what bhp i should be puttin out while im deciding what to buy next, thinkin kent cam and upgradin springs and valve stem seals while am there and gettin some head work done while i start saving for changin over to everything forge

 

[DaveMcT]

Presumably you already have forged pistons steel crank and high spec conrods. Because if you don't the engine will last about 2 seconds at full power/revs.

An intercooler will add a 5% more power (maybe 10% at a squeeze) as the air charge is more dense. More importantly it improves engine reliability.
Cams can add more but most top end turbos need a turbo cam and they run soft comression to avoid the engine exploding with full boost. They also have an oil spray under the piston to remove heat. The soft compression makes them rubbish off boost but they can tolerate a higher boost when it does kick in. Generally a turbo petrol is more hassle than a help & there are easier ways to get the power. If its was easy Subarau Imprezzas wouldn't cost so much.

Google "David Vizard"
His book about the BL A Series (Mini engines) will tell you more about tuning internal combustion engines than anywhere else. The general stuff applies anywhere.

 

[dageneral]

Presumably you already have forged pistons steel crank and high spec conrods. Because if you don't the engine will last about 2 seconds at full power/revs.

An intercooler will add a 5% more power (maybe 10% at a squeeze) as the air charge is more dense. More importantly it improves engine reliability.
Cams can add more but most top end turbos need a turbo cam and they run soft comression to avoid the engine exploding with full boost. They also have an oil spray under the piston to remove heat. The soft compression makes them rubbish off boost but they can tolerate a higher boost when it does kick in. Generally a turbo petrol is more hassle than a help & there are easier ways to get the power. If its was easy Subarau Imprezzas wouldn't cost so much.

Google "David Vizard"
His book about the BL A Series (Mini engines) will tell you more about tuning internal combustion engines than anywhere else. The general stuff applies anywhere.

Where do you get the idea I am gonna blow my engine, and even want to hit full revs??
Yes to answer your question I am going forged with pistons conrods, and getting a race spec head gasket, while im there im getting port n polish, gas flowed, ultimate road cams. All looked after by an AFR wideband gauge and oil temp gauges.

 

[MikeSalt]

Hi dageneral,

The FiatForum is perhaps not the best place to ask for a BHP estimate for your Seb0 specified GT, since very few of us drive them. PuntoSportsClub:mk1:Turbocharged Models Engine and Exhaust is probably your best bet since that is full of SEB equipped GTs. In fact, PSC member 'Mr Hans' is the UK importer for the PowerOnTheRoad chips. They should be able to give you a much better estimate than we can.

Sorry to hear about your damage. Don't forget to check out all the legal information at Potholes UK. Get yourself a camera and a measuring device and start compiling your evidence now before they fill it. Part of the Potholes UK system also provides contact information for your council, so you can then contact them to get it filled before it ends up killing a motorcyclist.

 

[DaveMcT]

Where do you get the idea I am gonna blow my engine, and even want to hit full revs??
Yes to answer your question I am going forged with pistons conrods, and getting a race spec head gasket, while im there im getting port n polish, gas flowed, ultimate road cams. All looked after by an AFR wideband gauge and oil temp gauges.

I had no idea what equipemnt you already had but made the point that bigger power needs stronger engine parts. Many folks (obviously no the OP) think thy can bolt lots of go-faster gear onto a normal engine and all will be fine.

One point to bear in mind - at high revs the pistons put tremendous stress on the conrods and crank. This loading is at its worst when the throttles shuts. Under boost and power the load on top of the piston counteracts much of the inertia force.

This something Rolls Royce discovered with their top spec Merlins. At speed and full boost the rods survived but pistons could burn very easily. Drop the boost and rods snapped. The experimental Crecy 2-stroke was actually better mechanically because it was more like a diesel with open intakes and direct injection. Sadly it never flew.

F1 cars are programmed to not allow full revs unless they also have full throttle.