General Green

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General Green

Steve said:
Sisley's have a large guard that protects the sump and underside of the engine, but the two I've had both has a bar like this as well.
seems a little overkill having both... the 4x4 sump guard is surely more than an match for any flexing in the front of the car.
 
Ok!
Today, flushing radiator, new dizy cap, plugs, rotor arm, injector clean and jetwash off the last of the mud!!!!!
I've decided - as I've seen everything now! - That the sump guard is a simple bar - only put on the CLXs with the early CAT system -itis not the same as the 4x4 sump guard and it doesn't help with the handling of the car - it's imply there to protect the CAT from kerbs when parking as the CAT is low and to the front of the car. Amen!(y)
 
But I shall have a cup of tea first! Nice sunny day for pandering here in Cornwall!!!!!
 
If your head gasket was going you would have a lovely creamy brown gunk inside the oil cap!

The lead arcing can in deed put the temp up as the unburnt fuel puts the temp up. If you have a cat it is possible for the un burnt fuel to destroy it but as long as your car is pre 93 you don't need one on the car so cut it out and you'll get a couple more HP. Oh as long as it's after the lamda sensor. ;)
 
Right!
First time working on a CAT car.
All the old spark plugs looked fine and normal - even No. 2 which wasn't burning the fuel and had the arcing lead.

Had to remove and put to one side the injector carb (seems a waste of time having one over a normal carb to me!) so I could actually get no.2 spark plug out!!!!!!!!!!

No creamy gunk in the radiator so hoping it's not Head gasket now - loing good! but the rad fluid is a very horrible rusty brown colour so just going to flush it now.
The CAT thing (if you can call it that) is after the lambda sensor - which is on the downpipe leaving the manifold. Are yousure I can discard the CAT?
or is that a Norhtern Ireland thing?

I don't think it's been a long term problem with the arcing ........
 
Mate, Northern Ireland is in the UK. We just have a different and much MUCH tougher mot than the mainland. Any car built before 1993 does not require a catalitic convertor even if it was fitted a standard. My integrale Evo had one and I took it off, my 308 had 2 and I took them off. As long as it's behind the lamda and you get your emmisions checked before going in for an mot there's no problem.
You'll find to that a lot of the tuning guys with later model cars take the cat off to release power and then just bolt it on for the mot. ;)

I would put the rusty coloured water down to someone filling the rad with just water and no inhibitor. What i would reccommend in this case is to replace the thermostat as you usually find due to no inhibitor it can seize. And it could be why you temp is going up a little, although the general ule of thumb is that if the thermo isn't working the car will show low on the guage. Turn the heater on full heat and see how warm the air is that comes out. If it's not to warm it's a good pointer that the thermo is done.

Make sure you use a good rust/anti freeze inhibitor.
 
Lol!:D I've been told!
Heater was good!
specially as car was overheating!!!!! phew! sweltering run from launceston to Bodmin!

Yep flushing out rad is taking over an hour with heavy duty stuff
Thermostat is good ( been watching water levels ) as is Fan switch.
New plugs leads, oil etc should be fab!

Thinks I can take off the injector carb and put on a good old 1000s carb..... get rid of those nasty electrickery things lke lambda sensors
oh ****! no Choke lever..... oh well maybe I can fit one
 
Sprox said:
Thinks I can take off the injector carb and put on a good old 1000s carb..... get rid of those nasty electrickery things lke lambda sensors
oh ****! no Choke lever..... oh well maybe I can fit one
I shouldn't think drilling a hole for a choke mechanism on the plastic facia would require a degree in rocket propulsion...

however finding a '100%-not-gonna-make-it-so-i-can justafiably-nick-the-choke-mechanism' 1000s/Sisley may be a little trickier...
 
I know Tony! I'd want to help it back onto the road!
Anyway, just test drove 'Green' and he's driving fine!
Blue smoke has cleared up and no mis-fires.
Coolant levels, clean and good with fresh anti-freeze.
His temp guage is running a tad over 90 so possibly it is the thermostat causing that.......

He drives great though!!!!!(y)
 
Sprox said:
The colour is
Malta Green Metallic! is that the same as the Sisleys?

It most definitely is Malta Green, tis identical to this in fact......:)

Waiting.jpg
 
Vin! is that your car?
If that green door is not rusty - I have a not rusty white door spare to swapsies!!!!!!!:D
 
Sprox said:
Right!
First time working on a CAT car.
All the old spark plugs looked fine and normal - even No. 2 which wasn't burning the fuel and had the arcing lead.

Had to remove and put to one side the injector carb (seems a waste of time having one over a normal carb to me!) so I could actually get no.2 spark plug out!!!!!!!!!!

No creamy gunk in the radiator so hoping it's not Head gasket now - loing good! but the rad fluid is a very horrible rusty brown colour so just going to flush it now.
The CAT thing (if you can call it that) is after the lambda sensor - which is on the downpipe leaving the manifold. Are yousure I can discard the CAT?
or is that a Norhtern Ireland thing?

I don't think it's been a long term problem with the arcing ........

haha you had that problem too!!
i raided my socket sets to sort that one out!
it can be done, 1/4" socket , 1/4" wobble coupler 1/4" extension then that gets it past the carb!
 
I'm going to look at Gina's Colour to see if the later Injection pandas have this prob! I just took the carb offf. . . . . :mad:
 
that is the worst parking i have ever seen!
 

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Why do you want to switch to a carburettor? If the fuel injection works fine I would leave it. The car is a 93 so is on the limit of needing a CAT before 92 the only checked for two gases (top of memory hydrocarbons and CO) After 92 the list is large, including oxygen content. You will never pass the emissions with out a cat and a catalytic converter will only work will a fuel injection unit.
The catalytic-sed car has an ECU, which will complicate matters mostly I imagine fuel supply problems.
If you do fit a carburettor though be sure to remove the cat and Lambda sensor as the CAT especially will not take kindly to too much un-burnt fuel
 
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