Grande Punto Power Steering Column Replacement

Steering noise, vibration or judder & occasional loss of power steering. Diagnosis from a dealer is that the power steering column needs replacing. Quoted £600 from the dealer to fix it. :eek: Read on.

Tools


Allen keys or bits (3mm and 5mm)
Long skinny screwdrivers x 2
T45 Torx bit
Flat blade screwdriver or punch and small hammer
13mm socket plus ratchet and swivel
An exchange re-manufactured power steering column that matches exactly the part you have on your car. In my case Fiat Part 55701323 (6 wire).
Inspection lamp
Small mirror
Patience and time (about 4 – 5 hours including dithering)


Preparation

Get the car into a position where you can work with the driver’s door wide open.
Make sure the steering wheel is straight.
Disconnect the battery and have a cuppa or wait an hour (this is to be safe when removing the air bag).


Remove Steering Wheel

On the boss of the steering wheel there is a small depression or dimple visible on either side. Using a skinny screwdriver push through the plastic and up inside the boss. There are two spring clips that you are attempting to depress that will allow removal of the horn switch and air bag assembly from the centre of the steering wheel. You will need to depress both springs at the same time whilst easing the centre of the steering wheel away from the boss. I was able to use my knees to push the spring clips whilst using both hands to ease the air bag assembly out.


DSCF3149 (Copy).JPG

Very gently reveal the fine red/black wires that need to be unplugged from the air bag. Then you can you can remove the yellow sheathed wires which plug into the back of the air bag.

DSCF3106 (Copy).JPG

DSCF3109 (Copy).JPG

It’s worth noting the position and routing of these wires for re-assembly.
Now disconnect the black sheathed wires from the connector at the top of the steering wheel boss.


DSCF3111 (Copy).JPG

Using a T45 torx bit with extension and ratchet remove the centre bolt. Once this bolt is out slide the steering wheel towards you and feed the wires through the slot in the picture.

Remove Steering Column Shroud

The lower part of the steering column shroud is located by seven 3mm hex screws. Once removed gently ease the lower part away. It’s located on plastic clips, so gently does it. It is worth at this stage also removing the lower panel above the pedals. This in also on for or five plastic clips and comes away relatively easily. I also removed a black heater duct which is a single screw to remove.

DSCF3113 (Copy).JPG

The upper shroud is attached by two 3mm hex screws below the stalks. Once removed unclip the stalk cover on the left hand side and pull back the gaiter. The shroud can then be removed over the right hand stalk.

Removing the Stalk Unit

Looking behind the stalk unit on the left hand side a single 5mm hex bolt is visible. Slacken this until the stalk unit can be slid off the column.


DSCF3115 (Copy).JPG

I left the collar and bolt in place ready to refit.

DSCF3117 (Copy).JPG

Ignition Security Bolts

On the left hand side are two headless bolts holding the ignition switch in place with a U shaped collar.

DSCF3118 (Copy).JPG

Using a flat blade screwdriver or punch with a small hammer gently tap the edge of the bolt head until it begins to rotate. I found this was relatively easy. Then I simply spun them out by hand. I marked the collar top and bottom to ease re-assembly.

Do not disconnect any of the electrical wiring. I found the wiring was long enough to simply drape the spaghetti on the gear lever out of the way.


Removal of the Upper Steering Column


The upper part of the steering column slides to provide reach adjustment. It is located on two 13mm bolts on either side. Remove these and pull the column down and off the studs. Then pull towards yourself. This part is on splines and will only fit one way.

DSCF3123 (Copy).JPG

The Prize

You can now see clearly the power steer motor unit. However it is difficult to see how it is fixed in place. Note the unit pivots on mounting to the rear. Working from underneath you can feel two 13mm bolts on either side. Using a socket and ratchet you can remove these bolts. Once these bolts are removed be careful as the unit is quite heavy and is surrounded by various bits of plastic.

DSCF3124 (Copy).JPG

Disconnect the two plugs on the base of the steering column to the left. The third connector is part of the unit and does not need disconnecting.
There is one more 13 mm bolt to go. This connects the column shaft to the steering rack. I chose to disconnect it at the rear of the steering column. Wriggle the now loose steering column down and twist up to the right. Reach around the back behind the centre shaft and you will feel a spigot and nut which is facing to the left. A mirror would be helpful to see exactly what you are dealing with. You can get a socket on to this using a swivel ratchet. I wouldn’t say this was easy but you only need to break it loose and spin the bolt out by hand. Once done slide the universal joint off the spigot and manoeuvre the column motor unit out.

I used a bit of wire to tire the steering joint and shaft in position for re-fitting.

DSCF3125 (Copy).JPG

Identifying Your Part

Although the more athletic may be able to get the part number off the base of steering column motor unit whilst in situ, it is a lot easier with the part out of the car.

DSCF3121 (Copy).JPG

In my case it was FIAT part number 55701323. I believe there are a number of variations so it is important to get the correct part for your Punto. A quick search on Ebay revealed three suppliers of a re-manufactured part for about £230. You can get your part reconditioned for £150 but will obviously have to wait whilst it is done.

Summary


[FONT=&quot]Remember the steering wheel, column shaft and steering shaft leading to the rack will only fit together one way.

Be careful with the wires in particular those in the steering wheel. Be especially careful and gentle with plastic fittings.

FIAT plastic is especially brittle.



DSCF3126 (Copy).JPG [/FONT]

Re-assembly is the reverse of removal.

Hope this helps.:)
 

Adie Mcc

New member
Joined
Sep 7, 2013
Messages
8
Just replaced my power steering column after reading this thread hundred's of time's to get myself confident of doing it. It went well enough but I did have a few problems. The jubilee clip which holds the indicator stalks on wouldn't tighten up enough so I just got a replacement from the local car parts shop only 69p which done the job nicely and after putting everything back together the car key wouldn't go into the ignition hole so I undone the plastic shroud and loosened the headless bolts abit on the ignition and it was ok. Another problem was the drivers window started playing up and not opening but after messing with the wires round the column making sure they wasn't been stretched in any way the window was ok.
I'd rate it 4 stars myself just because I didn't have all the tools and had to try and plod on with what I had.
 

grandechap

New member
Joined
Dec 4, 2013
Messages
11
Troy,

A really helpful post, thank you. I did this on my 56 plate GP following your guidance and it's worked out fine. It's especially helpful to know how many nuts and screws and what clips where.

Thought I would just add a few observations that other's may find useful:

- Probably the most difficult bit was the very first bit, getting the horn/airbag out of the steering wheel. It's a real knack to unclip the springs by pushing a screwdriver in and away towards the dash. Of course, once it's off and you see how it works it would be a doddle to do again;

- At first I thought Troy miscounted the 7 X 3mm hex head screws till I found the two that Guiseppe's hidden behind the column adjustment locking lever;

- I'd suggest the TORX on the steering wheel centre boss is a T50, not a 45 as Troy says;

- I removed the drivers seat to make space to work. I recommend this being worth the effort, particularly the latter stages as it's nice to lie on your back with your legs on the back seat and head under the steering column;

- I found an easier way to get the steering lock bolts undone was to gently grip the threads with a molegrip, after a half turn they're just finger tight;

- I replaced those steering lock bolts with a couple of new M8 bolts, each with an extra nut run right up to the top so it has a double depth head, otherwise you can't get a socket onto it to tighten it up;

- I really struggled with the very last 13mm bolt that secures the lower column onto the back of the PS unit - until I realised you obviously need to turn the steering wheel to get the bolt pointing upwards to get at it. As the wheel and upper column extension will only fit on one way there is no need to have the steering dead centre, you'll need to turn it as necessary to reveal that 13mm bolt;

- My unit was also the 55701323 (6-wire) same as Troy's one. I had already obtained a remanufactured unit from Western Power Steering for £218 inc VAT and carriage BOTH WAYS. Dunno about the other providers, but these guys were quick and the part seems just fine to me. Having it in your hands to look at before you start the job is helpful as you know where all the bolt holes etc. are - and also how heavy it is.

Not sure about Aide's comment about it being a 4-star job - I had all the right tools and I would rate it a hardish 3-star. 4 hours work inclusive of tea breaks.

Hope that helps
 
Last edited:

doggonedave

New member
Joined
Oct 25, 2014
Messages
1
Brilliant instructions and I just completed the refit today and all is good. I managed to get a new power steering motor from a former Fiat Dealer at a discount. My old part number was 55701323 and the new part number was 51927084. The new part number replaces the old one. There are only two electrical connections on the new one which fit the existing wiring loom of the car. As for the third connection on the old motor, you will notice that this connection is wired into the motor itself so I assume that the new motor has been modified with the sensor inside. Thanks again for the great post.
 
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david777

New member
Joined
Sep 8, 2013
Messages
11
This is a great post. Thanks. :) Having replaced my EPS unit, I would say removing the black heater duct is essential. You definitely have to move the steering wheel to get at that last bolt. The air bag unit clips right at the beginning are the hardest thing. If I can work out how to do it I will upload a couple of images with my air bag unit out and up side down to show clips and showing the approx position for the screw driver through the hole in the steering wheel side. If all else fails, I would suggest gently using a large drill to open a hole about 10mm so you can see the clip. Afterwards you can use a plastic plug or something to fill this hole.
 

andybm3

New member
Joined
Jun 12, 2014
Messages
2
Steering noise, vibration or judder & occasional loss of power steering. Diagnosis from a dealer is that the power steering column needs replacing. Quoted £600 from the dealer to fix it. :eek: Read on.

Tools

Allen keys or bits (3mm and 5mm)
Long skinny screwdrivers x 2
T45 Torx bit
Flat blade screwdriver or punch and small hammer
13mm socket plus ratchet and swivel
An exchange re-manufactured power steering column that matches exactly the part you have on your car. In my case Fiat Part 55701323 (6 wire).
Inspection lamp
Small mirror
Patience and time (about 4 – 5 hours including dithering)

Preparation

Get the car into a position where you can work with the driver’s door wide open.
Make sure the steering wheel is straight.
Disconnect the battery and have a cuppa or wait an hour (this is to be safe when removing the air bag).

Remove Steering Wheel

On the boss of the steering wheel there is a small depression or dimple visible on either side. Using a skinny screwdriver push through the plastic and up inside the boss. There are two spring clips that you are attempting to depress that will allow removal of the horn switch and air bag assembly from the centre of the steering wheel. You will need to depress both springs at the same time whilst easing the centre of the steering wheel away from the boss. I was able to use my knees to push the spring clips whilst using both hands to ease the air bag assembly out.


View attachment 131258

Very gently reveal the fine red/black wires that need to be unplugged from the air bag. Then you can you can remove the yellow sheathed wires which plug into the back of the air bag.

View attachment 131259

View attachment 131261

It’s worth noting the position and routing of these wires for re-assembly.
Now disconnect the black sheathed wires from the connector at the top of the steering wheel boss.

View attachment 131262

Using a T45 torx bit with extension and ratchet remove the centre bolt. Once this bolt is out slide the steering wheel towards you and feed the wires through the slot in the picture.

Remove Steering Column Shroud

The lower part of the steering column shroud is located by seven 3mm hex screws. Once removed gently ease the lower part away. It’s located on plastic clips, so gently does it. It is worth at this stage also removing the lower panel above the pedals. This in also on for or five plastic clips and comes away relatively easily. I also removed a black heater duct which is a single screw to remove.

View attachment 131263

The upper shroud is attached by two 3mm hex screws below the stalks. Once removed unclip the stalk cover on the left hand side and pull back the gaiter. The shroud can then be removed over the right hand stalk.

Removing the Stalk Unit

Looking behind the stalk unit on the left hand side a single 5mm hex bolt is visible. Slacken this until the stalk unit can be slid off the column.


View attachment 131264

I left the collar and bolt in place ready to refit.

View attachment 131265

Ignition Security Bolts

On the left hand side are two headless bolts holding the ignition switch in place with a U shaped collar.

View attachment 131266

Using a flat blade screwdriver or punch with a small hammer gently tap the edge of the bolt head until it begins to rotate. I found this was relatively easy. Then I simply spun them out by hand. I marked the collar top and bottom to ease re-assembly.

Do not disconnect any of the electrical wiring. I found the wiring was long enough to simply drape the spaghetti on the gear lever out of the way.

Removal of the Upper Steering Column

The upper part of the steering column slides to provide reach adjustment. It is located on two 13mm bolts on either side. Remove these and pull the column down and off the studs. Then pull towards yourself. This part is on splines and will only fit one way.

View attachment 131267

The Prize

You can now see clearly the power steer motor unit. However it is difficult to see how it is fixed in place. Note the unit pivots on mounting to the rear. Working from underneath you can feel two 13mm bolts on either side. Using a socket and ratchet you can remove these bolts. Once these bolts are removed be careful as the unit is quite heavy and is surrounded by various bits of plastic.

View attachment 131268

Disconnect the two plugs on the base of the steering column to the left. The third connector is part of the unit and does not need disconnecting.
There is one more 13 mm bolt to go. This connects the column shaft to the steering rack. I chose to disconnect it at the rear of the steering column. Wriggle the now loose steering column down and twist up to the right. Reach around the back behind the centre shaft and you will feel a spigot and nut which is facing to the left. A mirror would be helpful to see exactly what you are dealing with. You can get a socket on to this using a swivel ratchet. I wouldn’t say this was easy but you only need to break it loose and spin the bolt out by hand. Once done slide the universal joint off the spigot and manoeuvre the column motor unit out.

I used a bit of wire to tire the steering joint and shaft in position for re-fitting.

View attachment 131269

Identifying Your Part

Although the more athletic may be able to get the part number off the base of steering column motor unit whilst in situ, it is a lot easier with the part out of the car.

View attachment 131272

In my case it was FIAT part number 55701323. I believe there are a number of variations so it is important to get the correct part for your Punto. A quick search on Ebay revealed three suppliers of a re-manufactured part for about £230. You can get your part reconditioned for £150 but will obviously have to wait whilst it is done.

Summary

[FONT=&quot]Remember the steering wheel, column shaft and steering shaft leading to the rack will only fit together one way.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[FONT=&quot]Be careful with the wires in particular those in the steering wheel. Be especially careful and gentle with plastic fittings.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]FIAT plastic is especially brittle.[/FONT]


[/FONT][FONT=&quot] View attachment 131270 [/FONT]

Re-assembly is the reverse of removal.

Hope this helps.:)






Hi, this is a good post but there are a lot of things in the post that you don't have to do. the whole steering wheel , controls and ignition key will all come off as one so don't bother splitting it all down.


1. remove the plastic cover below the steering column by removing the 3mm alen key screws


2. remove the plastic trim panel and fuse cover , these are just held on with clips and need a firm pull to get them off.


3. this will expose the steering column assembly and you will see two 13mm nuts when you look upwards and there are two 13mm bolts that are quite hard to see which are horizontal left and right.


4. if you look below the pedals you will see a torx bolt on the end of the steering column shaft . remove this , you may have to turn the wheel to get the socket on but don't worry it will only fit back one way. take the bolt out and straighten the wheel back to the central position.
I also removed the black plastic heater duct which is held in with just 1 torx screw. this was a bitch to put back but only because its tight against the pedal assembly.


5. the whole steering wheel and controls will just telescope off the column and the wire will be long enough to lay it in the footwell while you remove the column motor assembly which is the faulty part. just pull it down off the top studs and forwards to pull it off the bottom spline of the steering column.


if you buy a replacement reconditioned unit it will come all set up ready to fit and will not need any programming. mine really only needed the torque sensor sorting out but by the time you've paid £100 for one had to strip the unit down and the get someone to calibrate it I thought £210 inc delivery and a lifetime guarantee was the best option for me.








it took me about 1 and 1/2 hours to sort it out but have in done it once I honestly think I could do it in about 45 minutes.
 

andybm3

New member
Joined
Jun 12, 2014
Messages
2
Hi, this is a good post but there are a lot of things in the post that you don't have to do. the whole steering wheel , controls and ignition key will all come off as one so don't bother splitting it all down.


1. remove the plastic cover below the steering column by removing the 3mm alen key screws


2. remove the plastic trim panel and fuse cover , these are just held on with clips and need a firm pull to get them off.


3. this will expose the steering column assembly and you will see two 13mm nuts when you look upwards and there are two 13mm bolts that are quite hard to see which are horizontal left and right.


4. if you look below the pedals you will see a torx bolt on the end of the steering column shaft . remove this , you may have to turn the wheel to get the socket on but don't worry it will only fit back one way. take the bolt out and straighten the wheel back to the central position.
I also removed the black plastic heater duct which is held in with just 1 torx screw. this was a bitch to put back but only because its tight against the pedal assembly.


5. the whole steering wheel and controls will just telescope off the column and the wire will be long enough to lay it in the footwell while you remove the column motor assembly which is the faulty part. just pull it down off the top studs and forwards to pull it off the bottom spline of the steering column.


if you buy a replacement reconditioned unit it will come all set up ready to fit and will not need any programming. mine really only needed the torque sensor sorting out but by the time you've paid £100 for one had to strip the unit down and the get someone to calibrate it I thought £210 inc delivery and a lifetime guarantee was the best option for me.








it took me about 1 and 1/2 hours to sort it out but have in done it once I honestly think I could do it in about 45 minutes.




forgot to mention there are three blocks of wires to the steering column , two of these need to be pulled out . it's pretty obvious which ones they are
and the third one is part of the assembly.


any one needs any one to one help email [email protected]. cheers Andy
 

PaulGPPunto8v

New member
Joined
Jul 21, 2015
Messages
10
forgot to mention there are three blocks of wires to the steering column , two of these need to be pulled out . it's pretty obvious which ones they are
and the third one is part of the assembly.


any one needs any one to one help email [email protected]. cheers Andy


I have all the assembly loose, but how do you disconnect the blue and yellow connector? I have tried pushing, pulling squeezing how do you do it please.


Thanks
 

4ndyMac

New member
Joined
Aug 23, 2015
Messages
8
I have all the assembly loose, but how do you disconnect the blue and yellow connector? I have tried pushing, pulling squeezing how do you do it please.


Thanks

Get a small flat blade screwdriver under the yellow middle bit and lever it outwards. It's basically a little lock. Pushed in is locked and pulled out a bit is unlocked. Had me confused for a few minutes :)
 
Last edited:

4ndyMac

New member
Joined
Aug 23, 2015
Messages
8
Have to say thanks to the guys above for the excellent guides. I'm a car novice but an electrician by trade so, being of an engineering background, thought I'd give this a go.

56 plate Grande Punto 1.2 8V Dynamic Delphi PS unit serial 55701323

I used andyBM3's method.

Disconnected both battery terms
Removed plastic covers under column with 3mm Allen key 6 in total if I remember right (2 sneaky ones under the adjustment handle)
Remove diagnostic port cover and large cover under steering column (just pull)
Disconnect the two wire connectors from power steering unit
Undo and pull out the torx bolt at the end of the steering shaft (universal joint right down at floor level to the left of clutch pedal

Then undo the Two bolts you can see Under the wheel pointing up towards the windscreen..

That's basically it. Pull the column towards you as you would when adjusting the steering wheel reach.

The two horizontal bolts that hold the power steering unit in should be the last two

The wiring loom (as andybm3 mentioned) was long enough to plonk the whole wheel and column on the front passenger seat and the power steering unit will come out with a bit of waggling and the obligatory smattering of foul language..



I was pretty nervous about doing this but after two hours I was out driving it again. Most of the difficulty was buggering about removing plastics etc..

Finally, I got my unit from acspowersteering and they were brilliant. Unit came pre coded off my old serial number, arrived next day and worked perfectly with no calibration needed. Also they included a UPS shipping label to return my old unit. Outstanding service..£218 inc vat, delivery and return shipping.

I'm not a car nut so may not post here much but just wanted to thank you guys for your help and guidance. My garage quote was £729 inc parts, labour and VAT so thanks to you lot I saved £511 today.

Cheers folks

Andy
 
Last edited:
Joined
Sep 9, 2008
Messages
93
Location
Ashford, Kent
Excellent guide. Used AndyBM's method too except we never disconnected the steering column base at all. The unit was mated to the top of the column in situ. It was fiddly but my father in law managed it.
Bought the unit from Western Power Steering - brilliant service as it came next day very well packed looking almost new.
 

Avocet

New member
Joined
Apr 4, 2015
Messages
317
I've just done this job on my daughter's car. I'd like to make a couple of points as a result:

1. Thanks ever so much for putting up the original post. I'm not sure I'd have been brave enough to tackle the job without it!

2. I wish I'd read further down this thread to find out it can be done without removing the airbag unit!

3. Removing the airbag unit was the longest and hardest part of the job. If anyone else is trying it:

(a) A flat-bladed screwdriver is best, with a tip about 5-6mm wide.

(b) Keep the tip orientated parallel to the steering column (or at 90 degrees to the steering wheel rim if that makes more sense)? David 777's photos show it well. You're feeling for a bit of round wire, about coathanger sized, that runs parallel to the steeing wheel rim, so if the screwdriver tip is at 90 degrees to that, you stand the best chance of hitting it.

(c) you're looking to push the screwdriver into the plastic of the steering wheel by about 25mm (or an inch). More than that, and you've gone past the wire (which is very easy to do).

(d) The springs don't require much force to bend them out of the way (push inwards towards the steering column).

(e) you might have to angle the tip of the screwdriver towards the engine a little (i.e. the screwdriver handle back towards you in the driver's seat).

(f) pulling gently on the steering wheel boss at the same time is necessary.
 

ashleyim

New member
Joined
Jan 10, 2016
Messages
13
Hi,

Thanks for such an awesome, detailed post.

I'm in need of replacing my EPS motor/pump unit and I have the same DWG as you, and several other posters here.

Is anyone aware of the alternative DWG numbers that are suitable replacements? I'm struggling to find a 55701323 DWG with the same serial number. Someone eluded to the fact that there's a new serial number that replaced this?

If anyone can help it would be really appreciated.

It's a Fiat Grande Punto 1.3 D Multijet.

Thanks!
 

chaosengine

New member
Joined
Feb 4, 2017
Messages
25
Hi there,
I will need to do this soon to my car. Just had MES hooked up and got c1002 code from steering.

Can someone please help find some tools that I'll need. I do not have a socket set etc.
Any links to some cheapish tools would be really helpful thank you I've found a socket set at halfords that may do? http://www.halfords.com/workshop-to...nced-modular-tray-set-31-piece-socket-set-3-8
£25. Doesn't have a swivel tho?


Allen keys or bits (3mm and 5mm)
Long skinny screwdrivers x 2
T45 Torx bit
Flat blade screwdriver or punch and small hammer
13mm socket plus ratchet and swivel


Thanks guys
 

bell100

New member
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Messages
1
I need to do one but it on the Evo. Would it be pretty much the same?

Thanks
 

Colonel Bogey

New member
Joined
Mar 2, 2019
Messages
3
I have just completed a PS motor and ECU change on a 2006 Grande Punto.
I just wanted to thank all who posted here for this invaluable thread.

I bought the said Punto about 6 weeks ago and was devastated when Fiat told me the horrible vibration it suddenly started making every time it turned right was down to faulty sensors in the steering column PS motor and it would all have to be replaced at a cost of £1400.....


After picking myself up off the floor I decided to see if I could find parts any cheaper which led me to this forum and specifically this post. I read and re-read the thread and decided to see if my (very) local fiat scrapyard might possibly have a replacement motor. A very helpful chap at DS motors in wickford Essex said "yes he had a motor and it would be £65. "


Long story shortened....after toing and froing to the local car spares shop for the tools I didn't have ( I am in no way a mechanic - actually a Mac operaor in the print trade and much more at home with computers). I got stuck in using the all in one lump method suggested by andyBM3's.

Once all the plastics are removed it is literally 5 bolts to undo.
2 that hold steering wheel and control stalks to steering column.

2 that hold the PS motor in place
1 that attaches steering column to steering rack.


I found it a bit fiddly getting the bolts back in that secure the PS motor
And the electrical clip with the yellow release latch foxed me for a while, you have to prize the top bit of the yellow button up with a flat head screwdriver and then squeeze the remaining yellow bit to release it.

I was also worried that a scrap PS motor would need calibrating in some way but it is working perfectly and feels so much better.

All in all it took me about 4 hours to do and I wouldn't have considered trying it without this post. So that is £1335 pounds saved thanks to you guys.:slayer:
 

Colonel Bogey

New member
Joined
Mar 2, 2019
Messages
3
Good Guide, OK, but, why whole unit swap?

Most common problem is the sensor itself in Grande (in Punto2 was sensor + some relays).


It can be replaced way more cheaper than entire, complete power steering unit.
Downside is the calibration procedure (tricky).

The link you provided points to sensors that cost £100-150 and how do you know you got the right one? Then you have to strip the motor down and rebuild it. For us non-mechanics thats a daunting prospect. Then its got to be calibrated. Do you need a special tool for that?

Don't think andyBM3's method can be beaten for ease and economy.


I replaced my faulty PS motor with a scrap one for £65 and it is working perfectly and will hopefully continue to do so. I have also just received an offer of £25 from one of the reconditioning companies for my faulty motor.

So £40 to do a repair that Fiat wanted to charge me £1400 for. Just keeps getting better.:)
 

Murkovics

New member
Joined
Feb 28, 2017
Messages
23
This lost helped me too but fornmy case it was a bit different...

On my 2009 bravo tjet 150 the steering wheel is not the shown above one it is the one that you have to put the screwdriver straight up from the hole.

Now i did not know that so eager me poking around said holes for a good 2 hours...

Now after this i lost my **** grabbed my knife and literally cut the side of that goddam wheel... Than i seen what the takeoff method is and took me 2 minutes... But my new wheel i have refurbished needs differnt airbag so now im waiting for that....

I could bloody scream as i wanted to refurb the old wheel too and sell it. Cant do it now.
 
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