Technical Gearstick vibration on Twinair

[system11]

Hi all, I have a problem which has developed on my 500 Twinair and it seems to be getting worse - excessive vibration felt through the gearstick. It's most often noticed when changing gear at high RPM and sometimes even causes a nasty sounding rattlre/clatter from the base of the gearstick. It's a high frequency buzz type of vibration, feels like one of those massage machines. I seem to be able to replicate it on the driveway with the car in neutral or with the clutch pedal held in once it goes in the 3000-4000 rpm range.

It had a new clutch at the start of the year, everything was fine until I noticed this last month.

 

[John202020]

Does your car have a dual mass flywheel? If yes, did you have it replaced with the clutch?

 

[system11]

I don't know if it does, just the clutch was replaced but that was January and the problem started about 3-4 weeks ago.

 

[jrkitching]

I don't know if it does

What's the year and engine horsepower? That should enable us to work it out.

 

[system11]

2014 Twinair Lounge - is there anywhere the engine power would be printed? I think it was the lower power one rather than the 105hp. I bought it from Copart years ago with the front end smashed in and rebuilt it - since then it's been pretty good aside from the clutch (which was starting to go when I bought it but still lasted 5 years roughly until it got worse).

 

[euroben]

This doesn’t help you but mine is doing exactly the same as you describe and I have also just had the clutch replaced. Do you happen to know if they used a Valeo clutch kit?

 

[system11]

I can ask them, I'll be seeing them next week for some bodywork on another car anyway. I'm thinking it's probably not the clutch itself because I can replicate it parked with the clutch held in and it makes zero difference between that and neutral. Is that the same for you?

 

[Tropicalmike]

If you have a 6 speed gearbox and the button on the dash says "sport" it is a 105 hp version. Also rear disc brakes. There may be label on the ECU that also says the HP. The 85 HP version has button on dashboard saying ECO and 5 speed gearbox.

 

[system11]

Definitely the 85 then, I didn't know the 105 had different brakes and an extra gear.

 

[z rider]

I would suspect the engine bearings, the rubber ones that hold the engine in situ. I would check or replace the little wishbone one at the rear of the engine as I think it's prone to wear.

 

[system11]

The MOT is due in a few weeks so I'm going to get the people who put the clutch in to check, they said it sounded like mounts. Is the wishbone one near the gearstick end? Front and back is a mystery with sideways engines.

 

[Tropicalmike]

Some refer to the after engine mounts as a "dog bone" due to their shape. So more or less below the gear stick.

 

[z rider]

Front and rear corresponds with the direction the car is driven, no matter if the engine is mounted longitudinal or sideways. And yes, it is the one thats shaped like a dog bone.

 

[system11]

It's definitely worst near the gearstick, these seem like cheap parts so I'll order one ahead of time.

This?

Rear Engine Stabiliser Bar 51954344

www.shop4parts.co.uk

 

[varesecrazy]

It's definitely worst near the gearstick, these seem like cheap parts so I'll order one ahead of time.

This?

Rear Engine Stabiliser Bar 51954344

www.shop4parts.co.uk

Yes, known as a DogBone

Shop4parts are great,

Decent quality parts at sensible prices

 

[Mistawonders]

It sounds like the Dual Mass Flywheel bearing has failed. Like they all do on TwinAir Euro 6 engines.
For me, I had to change the actual DMF, the clutch of course, but also the bell housing, as the clutch thrust bearing had machined its guide tube, which is, conveniently soldered on the bell housing assembly, and cannot be replaced independently.

Also had to replace the Right Side engine mount and the gearbox mount (dog bone).

Here’s a video explanation about this DMF on a TwinAir MiTo :

 

[jrkitching]

From everything I've seen posted on this forum, the working life of the DMF is about the same as that of the clutch.

It's a wear and tear part. Changing the clutch without also changing the DMF would seem to be false economy.

 

[system11]

They think it's the DMF, they didn't know it had one and would have replaced it with the clutch. This does unfortunately mean it has to be taken apart again.

 

[steveras57]

Theres a lot of extra expense involved here isnt there? Unless your doing all the work id have to question the value unless you plan to keep the car long term? otherwise could be by by time!.

 

[Mistawonders]

Theres a lot of extra expense involved here isnt there? Unless your doing all the work id have to question the value unless you plan to keep the car long term? otherwise could be by by time!.

The DMF+Clutch+Fork assembly cost me approximately 500€. If you’ve got a damaged bell housing, as I did, you need to add approximately 250 € more.
This is without the hourly cost in the garage.