Technical Gear change cables

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Technical Gear change cables

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Oct 8, 2012
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Can anyone tell me if 169 gear change cables are the same as 312 ones?
I have recently acquired a 2013 diesel 4x4 with a gear change that's a little stiff across the gate indicating sticky cables.
 
There are a couple of earlier posts about this issue…. It may be the cables, but more likely a pivot on the outer top of the gearbox casing which corrodes where a rod passes through the gearbox casing. I’ll see if I can find them from a search. My previous 2013 MJ 4x4, and only recently my current 2018 MJ 4x4 has experienced this same issue. The solution is to lubricate that pivot, and better still to remove it and clean it first (although I can’t see how to get to it!)

Edit - see here and the posts preceding it https://www.fiatforum.com/panda-iii/479659-stiff-gear-lever-2.html?p=4599101
 
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I took the opportunity today to brave trying to reach the troublesome pivot that corrodes and leads to the gear lever becoming very stiff 'across' the gate. Mine's a 2018 diesel 4x4, so some things in the phots may be different on other models, but the gist will be the same.
Start by disconnecting the battery (negative first) and then remove the battery completely.

1638720385493.jpeg
Next (above), carefully disconnect the large plugs to the ECU and unclip various plastic clips holding cables to the sides of the battery support. Also remove the earth wire from the ECU (at the bodywork end). Remove the plastic drip tray from the bottom of the battery support (noting the long drain pipe that fpokes down from it) and remove the nut and two bolts holding the battery tray in place. Ease the tray up and remove (by rotating the cable and battery tray at 90 degrees to each other) the plastic clip that holds the bonnet release cable to the bottom of the tray. The ECU remains bolted to the side of the battery support and all comes out as one unit.

1638720424007.jpeg


With the battery support out of the way, the top of the gearbox is now more visible. The ends of the gear change cables can be seen (round plastic fittings that just clip onto ball and sockets) Unclip these (by carefully levering away with a blunt tool). Note - these are not lubricated, and should not be. They are made of teflon or similar. Greasing these would in time make them stiff as dirt would get into the grease. Similary, these ends of the inner cables where they pass through rubber seals to the outer part must not be lubricated.

1638720715417.jpeg

Unscrew the nut (17mm AF) on the end of the pivot rod (this rod is what corrodes and leads to the stiff gear change action). Carefully recover the nut and washer behind it. The rod should be able to be pushed out towards the back of the engine bay. Mine was so corroded I had to knock it through with a soft hammer. There's a small, loose metal part that fits between this rod and into the rubber cover on top of the gear control levers. This should stay in situ, but it comes loose, it just slots back in later.

1638720868851.jpeg
Out of the car, here's rod in question It has two bands of corrosion mixed with dirt on it (worse nearer the balljoint end, under my thumb). I cleaned this away with some fine wet-and-dry paper., ahead of lubricating it before putting things back together. This rod is supported in the 'tube' it came out from by a plastic sleeve at either end (which I didn't take out). So, be careful in your choice of lubricant so as not to affect the plastic. I used (and hope its OK!) some spray-on white lithium grease. Note for refitting: there's a flat section just beyond the tread which the (possibly loose) lever in the rubber cover (mentioned previously) fits back onto when reassembling.

Carefully reassemble in the classic reverse order. Don't forget to twist the battery tray to refit the bonnet release cable as it goes in, carefully refit the various plastic clips holding wires in place, and crucially, fit back the removed ECU earth wire before the battery goes back. Refit the ECU plugs, then replace the battery leads (positive first).

All is now OK. Before I started the lever in the car needed to be physically pushed from side to side and didn't spring back to the centre. but now... it springs effortlessly to the centre. (Tried to paste iPhone video in but wouldn't let me – wrong format :)


@dragonwagon

 
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I took the opportunity today to brave trying to reach the troublesome pivot that corrodes and leads to the gear lever becoming very stiff 'across' the gate. Mine's a 2018 diesel 4x4, so some things in the phots may be different on other models, but the gist will be the same.
Start by disconnecting the battery (negative first) and then remove the battery completely.

View attachment 391923Next (above), carefully disconnect the large plugs to the ECU and unclip various plastic clips holding cables to the sides of the battery support. Also remove the earth wire from the ECU (at the bodywork end). Remove the plastic drip tray from the bottom of the battery support (noting the long drain pipe that fpokes down from it) and remove the nut and two bolts holding the battery tray in place. Ease the tray up and remove (by rotating the cable and battery tray at 90 degrees to each other) the plastic clip that holds the bonnet release cable to the bottom of the tray. The ECU remains bolted to the side of the battery support and all comes out as one unit.

View attachment 391925

With the battery support out of the way, the top of the gearbox is now more visible. The ends of the gear change cables can be seen (round plastic fittings that just clip onto ball and sockets) Unclip these (by carefully levering away with a blunt tool). Note - these are not lubricated, and should not be. They are made of teflon or similar. Greasing these would in time make them stiff as dirt would get into the grease. Similary, these ends of the inner cables where they pass through rubber seals to the outer part must not be lubricated.

View attachment 391926
Unscrew the nut (17mm AF) on the end of the pivot rod (this rod is what corrodes and leads to the stiff gear change action). Carefully recover the nut and washer behind it. The rod should be able to be pushed out towards the back of the engine bay. Mine was so corroded I had to knock it through with a soft hammer. There's a small, loose metal part that fits between this rod and into the rubber cover on top of the gear control levers. This should stay in situ, but it comes loose, it just slots back in later.

View attachment 391927Out of the car, here's rod in question It has two bands of corrosion mixed with dirt on it (worse nearer the balljoint end, under my thumb). I cleaned this away with some fine wet-and-dry paper., ahead of lubricating it before putting things back together. This rod is supported in the 'tube' it came out from by a plastic sleeve at either end (which I didn't take out). So, be careful in your choice of lubricant so as not to affect the plastic. I used (and hope its OK!) some spray-on white lithium grease. Note for refitting: there's a flat section just beyond the tread which the (possibly loose) lever in the rubber cover (mentioned previously) fits back onto when reassembling.

Carefully reassemble in the classic reverse order. Don't forget to twist the battery tray to refit the bonnet release cable as it goes in, carefully refit the various plastic clips holding wires in place, and crucially, fit back the removed ECU earth wire before the battery goes back. Refit the ECU plugs, then replace the battery leads (positive first).

All is now OK. Before I started the lever in the car needed to be physically pushed from side to side and didn't spring back to the centre. but now... it springs effortlessly to the centre. (Tried to paste iPhone video in but wouldn't let me – wrong format :)


@dragonwagon

Great post - many thanks!
 
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Odd I know I've seen lithium grease listed before to be avoiding for plastic
Unless it's a brand thing depending on the solvent mixed in to the grease
I just agree with you, I would avoid using lithium grease.

Silicone grease has more temperature resistance, adhesion properties and waterproofing properties. both grease attract dust and dirt. if there is a silicon option that does not attract dirt and dust probably would be better. personal opinion, avoid using spray grease, formulations of spray has many solvents that must evaporate before application, if you spay a grease or lube and close the part the grease or lube wont work properly because of the solvent still there.
 
Either way, never grease the cables at the gearbox end. That will just attract dirt and make things worse. The ball joints on the cable ends are Teflon or similar

What does need just a smear of grease, after dismantling as described in my guide, is the metal rod that sits in a metal sleeve on top of the gearbox, using a lubricant that is happy to get wet. As I say in my post above, silicone grease would have been perfect. The grease I did use nearly two years ago has worked without a recurrence of the issue, so also seems to be 'fine'
 
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This was on my list of jobs and finally did it on the weekend. Took my time and all went well. My lever also had to be tapped out with a hammer and an aluminium drift. Emery cloth and silicon grease to clean and lubricate and now it is so much nicer to drive. Great write up!
 
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