General Fiat panda 2005 1.3 multijet

[Goudrons]

The oil pump is down there in that area.

It looks like it's part of the timing chain cover.
https://www.kongperformance.co.uk/products/fiat-op308fiat

https://srotas24.co.uk/car-parts/en...lo-ii-13-jtd-199a3000-euro-4-16750645656.html

The clutch is at the other end of the crank/engine.

I wonder if the oil pickup pipe has factured and it's sucking in air?

 

[Goudrons]

Is it the oil pump and would this have got damaged when the clutch was changed?

They might have dented the sump if they've propped the engine up under there when they've taken the gearbox off.

A dent might be causing the oil in the sump to run away from the pickup pipe.

 

[l33rsk]

They might have dented the sump if they've propped the engine up under there when they've taken the gearbox off.

A dent might be causing the oil in the sump to run away from the pickup pipe.

Ok I will rub my hand over the sump to see if I can feel any dents let you know. Thanks

 

[koalar]

this thread is becoming confusing.

last I remember the oil pressure switch was going instantly from 0 to 1 immediately when tested with a multi meter

is that still the case now the oil filter and hosing has been changed ?

if yes. Then the problem isnt the sump or pickup pipe or even anything to do with oil pressure

Does the light Flash ???

 

[l33rsk]

this thread is becoming confusing.

last I remember the oil pressure switch was going instantly from 0 to 1 immediately when tested with a multi meter

is that still the case now the oil filter and hosing has been changed ?

if yes. Then the problem isnt the sump or pickup pipe or even anything to do with oil pressure

Does the light Flash ???

Sorry about all of this.
No the oil light isn’t flashing never was.

I have now got a new oil pressure switch can you advise please what size socket I need so I can buy one to change it?

This is what’s happening, from cold start up or when the car has sat for a couple of hours.

Engine fires oil pressure light is on and there is no noise that I can here with me standing in front of the cars. . After about 5-10 seconds the oil light goes out at the exact same time as the noise starts still standing in front of the car. When the engine starts to warm up the noise disappears still standing in front of the car. When you get underneath the car and put a screwdriver on the lip of the sump on the left hand side you can still hear it faintly. Thanks

 

[koalar]

Sorry about all of this.
No the oil light isn’t flashing never was.

I have now got a new oil pressure switch can you advise please what size socket I need so I can buy one to change it?

This is what’s happening, from cold start up or when the car has sat for a couple of hours.

Engine fires oil pressure light is on and there is no noise that I can here with me standing in front of the cars. . After about 5-10 seconds the oil light goes out at the exact same time as the noise starts still standing in front of the car. When the engine starts to warm up the noise disappears still standing in front of the car. When you get underneath the car and put a screwdriver on the lip of the sump on the left hand side you can still hear it faintly. Thanks

size depends what the manufacture chooses it to be

21mm is fairly standard. But some manufactures choose a different size

 

[koalar]

pressure switch operates at less than 5 psi

The chain tensioner is hydraulic

without pressure the chain will rattle and is front left looking at the engine.

I am getting concerned we are no further forward yet.

I doubt changing the switch will make any difference

really needs the pressure switch swapping for a gauge

its hard to damage the sump changing a clutch. You can take the gearbox mount off and raise or lower the engine quite a bit by jacking under the sump. I normally lower the right hand side down several inches, makes dropping and replacing the gearbox easier

 

[koalar]

are you sure its not leaking around the housing

some of this oil look old

 

[l33rsk]

Since I’ve changed the oil can’t see any leaks and nothing on the floor are you showing that picture for illustration? Only I don’t recognise it?

Could this noise and light be an electrical fault? Damage to something or not put back properly when doing clutch replacement do you have to touch ecu at all. Just a thought.

Also could the noise be nothing to do with oil pressure light even though it starts as light goes out?

Do fuel filter housings make noise when bad?
Thanks

 

[koalar]

the photo is one one you posted earlier just cropped to focus on an old oil leak to the right of the oil filter


from the front on the left side is timing chain and oil pump

if oil pressure is low the chain will rattle. As the adjuster gets pushed back until the oil pressure builds and pushes the hydraulic tensioner back

safest is to put a pressure gauge in the place of the pressure switch and start the car from cold. I would ask an independent garage. it not going to take more than 10 minutes.

or buy one you always got in future.

 

[l33rsk]

the photo is one one you posted earlier just cropped to focus on an old oil leak to the right of the oil filter


from the front on the left side is timing chain and oil pump

if oil pressure is low the chain will rattle. As the adjuster gets pushed back until the oil pressure builds and pushes the hydraulic tensioner back

safest is to put a pressure gauge in the place of the pressure switch and start the car from cold. I would ask an independent garage. it not going to take more than 10 minutes.

or buy one you always got in future.

I did spill a lot of oil when I first took the filter out as I was just checking it to see which filter I needed. Saying that there was already old oil around that area because when I had the mot done they pointed it out.

I did go for a 14 mile trip in it today and the oil light didn’t come on at all. Only the original problem when I first started the car up.

 

[l33rsk]

Decided to buy an oil pressure tester can I have some advice on the thread size please and also what should the pressure be when 1st started from cold. Thanks

 

[koalar]

M14x1,5. oil pressure gauges normally comes with this as standard

I dont know the official PSI for the multijet I use 10 psi per every 1000 for most cars with a maximum of around 70.


There are s few exceptions such as the twinair.


this maybe of interest


http://www.bba-reman.com/forums/Topic121004.aspx

 

[koalar]

also

known issue

 

[l33rsk]

also

known issue

I now have had a garage look at my car and this is what’s been said.
There is a dent in the sump but they are saying that this wouldn’t cause my problem.

They are saying that the car needs a timing chain kit, tensioner and a new sump at a cost of around £700.

I asked about it being the oil pump and was told you might as well have that changed at the same time.

They also mentioned that they haven’t worked on a panda multijet before.

 

[koalar]

I now have had a garage look at my car and this is what’s been said.
There is a dent in the sump but they are saying that this wouldn’t cause my problem.

They are saying that the car needs a timing chain kit, tensioner and a new sump at a cost of around £700.

I asked about it being the oil pump and was told you might as well have that changed at the same time.

They also mentioned that they haven’t worked on a panda multijet before.

They tell you it doesn’t need a sump
Then charge for a sump

If they didn’t pressure test they are a bunch of cowboys

If they did what was the results

If the pressure rises slowly but reaches normal pressure I can’t see it being anything other than that posted on the bulletin. But that’s from sitting here behind a keyboard I might change my mind if the car was in font of me.

Fits what we can see and hear. Both with the oil light and timing chain rattle

 

[l33rsk]

They tell you it doesn’t need a sump
Then charge for a sump

If they didn’t pressure test they are a bunch of cowboys

If they did what was the results

If the pressure rises slowly but reaches normal pressure I can’t see it being anything other than that posted on the bulletin. But that’s from sitting here behind a keyboard I might change my mind if the car was in font of me.

Fits what we can see and hear. Both with the oil light and timing chain rattle

No they didn’t do a pressure test which personally I was expecting them to.

He said the chain is stretched and the tensioner is struggling to keep it taught.

But what we are saying is that the chain will rattle until the pressure build up and the tensioner will kick in so the chain isn’t stretched like the garage is saying.

Thinking about it now he didn’t really give me an answer about the oil pressure.

Can you remind me which part of the bulletin are you referring to please do you mean the oil cooler?



Thanks

 

[koalar]

No they didn’t do a pressure test which personally I was expecting them to.

He said the chain is stretched and the tensioner is struggling to keep it taught.

But what we are saying is that the chain will rattle until the pressure build up and the tensioner will kick in so the chain isn’t stretched like the garage is saying.

Thinking about it now he didn’t really give me an answer about the oil pressure.

Can you remind me which part of the bulletin are you referring to please do you mean the oil cooler?



Thanks

yes heat exchanger

if you right click on the image above and open in a new tab it fully readable. It the only way I have found view images properly with my touch screen any how


Should be easy to prove with a gauge.

 

[l33rsk]

yes heat exchanger

if you right click on the image above and open in a new tab it fully readable. It the only way I have found view images properly with my touch screen any how


Should be easy to prove with a gauge.

Ok it looks like I’m going to have to buy a gauge.

Does the heat exchanger leak then? Could you explain please how this could be the culprit.

If it is can I just get a new gasket kit or does it have to be the whole unit?

Thanks

 

[koalar]

Ok it looks like I’m going to have to buy a gauge.

Does the heat exchanger leak then? Could you explain please how this could be the culprit.

If it is can I just get a new gasket kit or does it have to be the whole unit?

Thanks

both

the gaskets loose there elasticity. Then leak oil to the outside or into the coolant

Also if air is drawn in then be more likely for the oil to drain down to the sump and will also take time for the oil to be purged of the introduced air


there's a one way valve. If this starts to leak all the oil in the filter and exchange will drain away. No pressure can be made until its been replenished

so the warning light stays on longer


The oil on the turbo pipes look to have been there for tens of thousands of miles. Are you sure you can't see a leak ?