Panda Fiat Panda 100HP - Electroclash grey

[koalar]

Looks really well looked after, cool

 

[redandwhite]

Large update incoming, full service and cambelt kit with waterpump. This will be split into 3 parts

part 1 - oil & filter
part 2 - cambelt
part 3 - spark plugs, air filter, pollen filter,wiper blades

#1 - oil & filter
jacked up and engine run up to temperature
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

genuine filter and 5w40 fully synthetic
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

ready for the drain
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honda civic oil filter tool coming in handy in the tight space
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old vs new
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torquing up
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cleaned up an oil weep on the left hand side of the sump - something to keep an eye on
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2.5L of oil measured out and going in
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[redandwhite]

part 2 - cambelt

jacked up, drivers side roadwheel removed
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

plastic cover to be removed
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

which exposes the crank pulley / aux belt setup
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

taking the tension off the aux belt tensioner to allow the belt to be removed
by Montana BI, on Flickr

aux belt off
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

cheap ebay impact wrench did the trick on the crank pulley bolts
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pulley removed
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unbolt lower cambelt cover
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carefully jack up the sump which will help with the next part - engine mount removal
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

in the engine bay, remove the 3 bolts holding the air filter box on
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

unclip a pipe running across the top of the air box and it will be free!
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

which exposed some bodgery on one of the coilpacks (will come back to that later)
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

remove coolant bottle bolt
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at this point i opted to remove the lower hose as i would be draining/flushing the coolant anyway
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

coolant collected in a very useful house box
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coolant bottle moved out of the way
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the engine mount is now exposed
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

 

[redandwhite]

remove these 3 bolts to the engine block
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then these on the chassis
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

with the bolts removed, lift it off
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

now you need to remove the bolts holding the mount to the engine in order to get to the cambelt, there are 6 in total - you can see a few of them here
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

lift the engine to give easier access
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space is tight but perfectly manageable
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

breaking a lower one free
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for the bottom one nearest the bulkhead i opted to go from the bottom
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all 6 bolts out but still struggling to remove, so took the upper cambelt cover off
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exposing the belt
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the task - i was glad to see tippex here, backing up what i saw in the service history
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i rotated the crank to get the crank locking tool in place (it was a £30 amazon jobbie)
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however could only get 2/3 bolts in place which was enough to stop things moving but not ideal
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view from the top with the crank locking tool in place
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i removed the previous tippex markings...
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[redandwhite]

...and made new ones to keep the cam pulley orientated
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removing the tensioner
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belt coming off, no turning back now!
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old dayco belt, no sign of cracking on the inside face (this was last changed in 2016)
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new SKF one
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quick check it 'looks' right
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waterpump removal
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Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

pump removed
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lots of sealent left behind, face all cleaned up ready for the new one
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old versus new
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new waterpump and tensioner back in
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along with the new cambelt
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setting the tensioner
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Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

crank locking tool removed and engine rotated 2 full revolutions
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lower cambelt cover back on
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I also planned to change the aux belt and tensioner whilst here. old vs new belt
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new belt on and running true
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

 

[redandwhite]

I had an issue with the aux belt tensioner, having previously replaced one on a Mito using my standard allen keys, there is less room in the Panda so a set of stubby allen keys will be ordered to tackle the tensioner at a later date.

At this stage, i needed to leave the coolant to set before i could refill and check all was ok with the cambelt change, so left it for the afternoon and came back later (in the dark)

struggled to remove the quick release hose from the bottom of the radiator, so focused on the clip
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

hose removed and the residual coolant from the radiator drained, at this point 7 hours had elapsed, so refilled with water (not coolant)
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

filled to the max ready for the first start
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

all good
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the engine was then run up to temp and then coolant drained (twice) to flush any old coolant out - it was later refilled with the Prestone all in one once i was happy there were no leaks from either the waterpump or bottom hose

All in all it was a success, the main bottlenecks were on the removal of the engine mount & cleaning the face of the block which were a time sap - all in all took me 5 hours.

 

[redandwhite]

part 3 - spark plugs, air filter, pollen filter,wiper blades

air filter change
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

unfortunately i had been supplied with an incorrect replacement, however the one in there looked like new, so that went back in!
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spark plug change next
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all clips removed (including the cable tie bodgery)
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plugs removed
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my plug didnt have the rubber insert to allow easy removal so made my own out of blue tack (take out when tightening)
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

old vs new - old plugs had this 'burn' ring around the ceramic - replaced with like for like (NGK DPR7E-N-10)
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

torqued up
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at this point took the oppourtunity to protect the exposed wiring (not pretty but effective)
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

time to reproduce the cable tie bodgery seen earlier
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factory fresh!
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also took the oppourtunity to protect some exposed wire at the cam cover side
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

new bosch wipers on the front
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

and a insert on the rear
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

 

[redandwhite]

I had a rear knock, examining the rear shock top mounts it was clear why with the perished bush
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

with the Panda jacked up (wheels still on) i set about replacing the rear shocks

a bit of plus gas to help things along
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end of life!
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i needed some replacements sharpish, so went to GSF (i know, a Panda is italian) and got some Amtec ones for £37 a pair which with a 12 month guarantee suited me
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

both rear dampers replaced and torqued up
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

 

[DaveMcT]

The cam lock tool screws into the front of the cam carrier. To fit you set the tool with the flats vertical and screw the knurled ring into place. Turn the engine until the lock clicks into place. If the cam belt is removed you just turned the cam. Lock the crank as shown above.

Loosen the cam wheel using a back-holding tool to prevent torque going into the cam. Now the belt can be fitted and tensioned. I used the kit supplied pin wrench and a mirror to set the belt tension. Now torque up the cam wheel - again using the holding tool.

Remove the locks and CAREFULLY turn the engine TWO full turns. If all goes smoothly you can box it up. Yay!

 

[DaveMcT]

My cam belt cover was broken where someone had butchered the front M6 bolt. I faffed about making new brackets from aluminium and all is fine. I later discovered that Shop 4 Parts have new covers for under £14. D'Oh.

I also had a sheared off M10 stud on the engine mount. Probably the same ape who smashed the cam belt cover. I fitted the top part and drilled out the broken bolt with a 10mm drill. This type cuts well and is long enough to go deep.

DeWalt DT5422 Extreme DIN 338 10mm 133mm Length Cobalt Metal HSS-Co Drill Bit | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for DeWalt DT5422 Extreme DIN 338 10mm 133mm Length Cobalt Metal HSS-Co Drill Bit at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.

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I then opened it to M12 tapping size and tapped to M12. The car now has two studs and one bolt on the engine mount.

 

[ben]

@redandwhite I've converted the first post for you so it works in Members Motors

 

[DaveMcT]

The ignition coils will have brittle connectors and the wiring loom tray will also be brittle. You have some options -
(a) Hold it all neat and tidy with zip ties and be happy.
(b) Replace the male connectors with new and make a new ignition loom using high temperature (silicone insulated) wires. Use woven sleeves to avoid chafing.
(c) Replace the entire loom and support tray with new from Fiat.

(a) Risks a wiring fault but it's unlikely to stop the engine, though will be annoying.
(b) Requires some work, but will be the most reliable as Fiat wires are always crusty due to engine heat.
(c) Get your mortgage advisor on speed dial.

The support tray could be remade from aluminium sheet but it's not really needed with sleeves over the wires.
Wiring sleeves - eBay item 231407619751
Heat resistant wire - eBay item 124849723611

 

[redandwhite]

A few jobs completed on the Panda today.

When i did the cambelt, i failed on the aux belt tensioner as i didnt have a stubby 6mm allen.

The swap was straighforward
old vs new
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

fitted
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Next job, i had a slight blow around the downpipe to centre pipe gasket, the plan was to replace the gasket and re-seal (i had previously slapped some high temp on as a temporary fix)
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

I thought i would have a struggle with the old looking nuts, however refreshingly, no issues encountered - so the area was cleaned up and high temp silicone applied
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

I took the oppourtunity to also clean up and re-seal the flexi join
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all done
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Last job as front discs, pads have recently been replaced all round but with the MOT on the horizon i took the oppourtunity to replace the lipped front discs
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

the mammoth G-clamp made the piston push back childs play - this was very welcome as i didnt this during a hailstorm
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all done
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr