Technical Fiat panda 1.2 Engine Ventilation Hose

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Technical Fiat panda 1.2 Engine Ventilation Hose

1 and 2 you have confirmed it's not the coil(well very unlikely)




I use this
IMG_20230908_120448.jpg


From a cheap set

IMG_20230908_120415.jpg

The rubber pipe doe not seal well


But it only takes 2 minuites no doubt a small garage would not charge much to test it for you
 
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I ordered one too. I'll check the pressure when it arrives. Thank you.

Well the real question. Is there a source video or image repository I can use? Because I couldn't find it either.
I'm still afraid to disassemble it myself.

I actually have all the teams and skills.
 
The sets I ordered have not arrived yet. I took out the spark plugs and put in new ones.


I have a faulty water hose. I'm waiting for the continuation of the episodes.

Apart from that, I have cleared iavc before. I guess he couldn't stand the cleaning and made a mess. I purchased iacv in 2 pieces.
Now the plastic has rotted.

Still waiting for the compression tester. What is the ideal value range for Panda?
 

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With a cheap tester the values aren't that consistent on values

What you are looking for is a difference between cylinders, which any tester will do

You have a misfire at low revs on cylinders 1 and 2

Last couple I have checked were somewhere just over 200 psi on a good cylinder with my gauge

And something like this with a bad head gasket

Cylinder 1 cylinder 2 cylinder 3 cylinder 4
..... 75............75........... 215............ 220

Can't remember the exact figures but the 75 psi is correct and the good were over 200

Your engine has a lower compression ratio so I guess the values will be slightly lower. You have two cylinder running fine, if the first two cylinder are within within a few percent you need to be looking elsewhere. If a lot lower you have found you problem
 
I have an idle problem in my car. No malfunction lamp is on. I'm checking the electrical installation.

I had to remove this hose while checking. It has cracked because it has hardened over the years.

Could this hose have something to do with the idle?


At this time, the fault light started to come on.

Is there anything that needs to be done to calibrate the throttle valves after removing the battery?

Working videos


Why are the dashboard symbols flashing? Does this not suggest an electrical issue?

If you want to isolate the cracked breather pipe from the idle issues you could just tape over it to temporarily block the leak and see if it makes a difference. However, as it is before the throttle body I don't expect it to have any effect.
 
Why are the dashboard symbols flashing? Does this not suggest an electrical issue?

The lights are mostly controlled via network

When the scanner tries to connect it interrupts the signal until it get refreshed

It's normal if scary with some scanners

If you want to isolate the cracked breather pipe from the idle issues you could just tape over it to temporarily block the leak and see if it makes a difference. However, as it is before the throttle body I don't expect it to have any effect.
Correct, they run fine disconnected
 
I replaced my burst radiator hose. Then, my vehicle worked smoothly for about 5 minutes without the malfunction light coming on. Idle and acceleration were normal.

Then I noticed that it stopped when I touched a few points. One of them is the brake hose. When I moved the hose going to the brake center, my car stalled. I took it apart and checked it. I noticed that the pipe clamp could not tighten. After tightening it well with the new clamp, this problem disappeared.




Later, I noticed that when I moved the cables going to the brain, it stopped. I arranged and checked all the cables going to the brain and fixed them in their correct places.



Now when I move the cables it doesn't stop.


In the last case, when the vehicle is cold, the automatic choke works and the sound of the vehicle is nice. (Error lamp is on)




After the vehicle warms up, idling gets worse.



I still can't connect to the ECU.

Next up is the cylinder compression test.
 

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My compression values look good. They are all close to each other and quite high. We did not find any problems here either.


 

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My compression values look good. They are all close to each other and quite high. We did not find any problems here either.



There great results 👍

After all the work done

Does is it still only run on cylinder 3 and 4 at idle
 
I don't know.

I will check the Evap blue hose and brake air hose again. I don't quite understand how to test this.

I will test the cylinder gasket for air bubbles. I also purchased a kit test. My cylinder gasket may still be worn.

Manifold;
When I place my hand over the air intake, a strong and persistent vacuum is created that causes my hand to turn red. So there is no vacuum leak.
(It's gotten better since I started tinkering)

Spark plug;
I replaced the spark plugs with new ones.

I made the following observation. When I first bought the car it had spark plug wires. I realized the order was wrong. And I changed them (the right way)

It was working fine despite the wrong order. There was no problem with the correct order either. Could this wrong order have been done consciously?
I have reasons not to trust my idling engine.

My last thought is to buy a new throttle set for £200.

Do you think the cylinder is not working like in the long video in my last messages?
 
Gasket combustion test kits are available. They change color when they see burnt gases in the water.
There is a Würth co2 test kit. Since it was a little expensive, I bought an equivalent product.

The further away from the yellow color, the more problems will occur in the seal.

According to the kit results, my gasket appears to be damaged. When I look carefully at the radiator tank, I see bubbles in the water.

When the car's water pipe burst, idle speed improved. I think it's a related topic.

I think my cylinder gasket needs to be replaced.

I applied to Fiat service, they give a 2 year warranty. When I compare it according to my country's economy, they give the same price as private services. So it's not very expensive.


If I disassemble it, I will replace and maintain all the parts, cables and many other parts I see while disassembling. If the service takes it apart, it will only replace the gasket and close it.


I'm a little afraid to disassemble it at home because the bolts may break or unexpected things may happen.

I have to make a decision.
 

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Right let's take a breath and start over

You need compression, fuel, spark

If you have close to 200 psi on every cylinder, you have compression, just checking you did press the button to reset the gauge to zero between each cylinder

Even if it's faulty, it's not the source of the rough idle

Your cambelt timing is correct othwise all cylinders would have been low

You have done the manifold leak test, and it's fine

So valves, timing, compression, and no massive vacuum leaks are known to be good


We don't know, if we still have the original problem or why we can't connect a scanner

Let's start again remove each spark plug one at a time and note which ones make the biggest difference

Which plugs leads were in the wrong order were 1 and 4 swapped over or 2 and 3
 
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I reset the pressure gauge, I didn't make any mistakes in this regard, there is no problem. I'm sure the compression test is correct.

If compression is high, is the cam belt timing absolutely correct?

Yes, manifold test results are great, no air leaks.

However, I still haven't fully tested the brake and evap hoses. However, if there is a problem here I think it will affect the manifold testing.

I made resistor and capacitor modifications to Elm 327. I haven't had a chance to try it yet. As you said, my priority right now is to try connecting to the car.
 

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I reset the pressure gauge, I didn't make any mistakes in this regard, there is no problem. I'm sure the compression test is correct.
Good compression, almost certainly not your problem
If compression is high, is the cam belt timing absolutely correct?
Correct, if the timing is out by 1 tooth all cylinders would be down on values
Yes, manifold test results are great, no air leaks.
Perfect
However, I still haven't fully tested the brake and evap hoses. However, if there is a problem here I think it will affect the manifold testing.
Correct
I made resistor and capacitor modifications to Elm 327. I haven't had a chance to try it yet. As you said, my priority right now is to try connecting to the car.
Would make thing easier
Depending on what the error
 
Use a terminal and test communication between the phone and adapter

Then check the communication between the adapter and the car


Screenshot_20230923_153053.jpg


This software works with my phone, elm327 and car

Click connect and pick your ELM327 from the list

Screenshot_20230923_164801.jpg


Then type these commands


Screenshot_20230923_165010.jpg



That's how my panda 2011 responses
 
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Finally I was able to connect to the ecu!
My mechanic friend, whom I met while walking my dog, came to help with his own OBD device. We were able to connect to the Launch x431 model device without any problems.

I have 1 main problem. Even though I cleared the error, the map sensor error continues.

In my own tests. It is slightly higher than the required resistance values according to the diagnostic scheme. Apart from this, there is a constant 5 volts in the cable. I didn't just measure the signal line in the cables.

Map values obtained from OBD are around 0.400 at idle. When I give gas it is around 0.200.

I will buy a map sensor.


Other than that the throttle always seems to be 0.3% open. I think the screw has been tampered with before. Because the screw is a little bit inside.

The idle speed was manually increased slightly (as a temporary solution in case of a possible malfunction).

The throttle always seems to be 0.3% open. I guess this is a mistake?

My current thought is that I will buy a throttle set and map sensor.
 
Take a step back,

What was the error code

You can throw parts at a problem, but it can get very expensive very quickly if you guess wrong a few times.

Originally

We have 3 plugs covered in carbon

And one that isn't

If one cylinder is misfiring then it will send a volume of unburnt air down to the O2 sensor which will cause the ECU to maximum the fuel trims making the other cylinders run very rich

IMG_20230926_105744.jpg

Now you have changed the plugs how do they look

Photograph them now in the correct order

Cylinder 1,2,3,4
 
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There are many error codes because I removed many sensors.

The only error that is not cleared is p0105.

I've never used the car. We can say that we used the spark plugs at idle for approximately 20 minutes in total. When I took it apart for compression testing everything was clear.

Is it normal for the throttle to be 0.3% open? This situation makes me think.

I think the spark plugs are darkened due to the wrong LPG setting. I have not used LPG since I bought the vehicle.
 

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I replaced the map sensor. There was no improvement in the vehicle.
I purchased a throttle set. Same brand original same code.

The car got worse when I installed a new throttle valve. It started to stop completely.

I reinstalled the old throttle.


I rechecked the spark plug ignitions and they all fired very well. The resistance of pipe cables is around 0.7k.

I tested each injector separately with the ODB testing machine, it sends fuel and cuts it off.

I have no idea where to look now.

Compression is already good.

But this all happened after the car overheated. The car was running smoothly until that day.

The vehicle makes exhaust noise while operating.
both at idle and when I give gas. Exhaust rumbles constantly. I think this means it can't burn fuel or burns it late.







In this case, I don't know whether to look for the problem in electronics or mechanics, I focused entirely on electronics.

Note, I have been trying to repair my car for about 1.5 months and I cannot drive it. It will probably continue like this for another month :)

Note 2 : There was a slight code difference in the map sensor I installed. The seller said it would be compatible.
 

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