Technical Fiat Panda 1.2 2009 Dynamic - Wheel noise

[petebarchetta]

Hi All, Owner of a 2009 (59) plate fiat panda. Recently it has developed a click / clack noise. initially i put it down to something being loose (obviously) took wheel off and nothing in wheel well looked out of place. Noise happens when wheel hits something in road, raised or dipped. Does exhibit with wheels under breaking, so that rules out brake pads, all suspension components look fine, nothing is loose.
Any ideas?

 

[portland_bill]

Most likely is the anti-roll bar link. Often the opposite side to where the noise is perceived. Cheap and easy to replace, always do both.

Possible, but less likely, strut top mounts, or bottom ball joint. Both need checking with weight of the car off them.

Otherwise, check all bolts for tightness, especially caliper mounting, and of course, wheelnuts.

 

[DaveMcT]

As above. Also check the drive shaft outer joints on full steering lock. They will click when worn especially on the inside of the turn where the angle is greatest.

The drop link bolts will almost certainly have to be cut. You will need an angle grinder and slitting disc. Take care to avoid cutting the anti roll bar or shock absorber brackets.

 

[petebarchetta]

Further investigation on the opposite side as advised above. All bolts again were tight, so no risk of wheel going on an adventure of its own
However found that the shock has decided to leak down the wheel assembly. So wondering if shock oil low makes opposite side “clack” noise due to ARB being stiff. Yet any bumps on passenger side (where shock leak is) emit no noise…..

 

[bugsymike]

Further investigation on the opposite side as advised above. All bolts again were tight, so no risk of wheel going on an adventure of its own
However found that the shock has decided to leak down the wheel assembly. So wondering if shock oil low makes opposite side “clack” noise due to ARB being stiff. Yet any bumps on passenger side (where shock leak is) emit no noise…..

Not common , but I have heard severely knackered shock absorbers make a slight knocking noise from the worn bush the strut slides down, where the leaking seal is. When jacked up with load off it may be possible to grab the shaft or the strut and pull and push to see it.

 

[koalar]

Is this the third thread started about the same problem

It would be better to keep everything in one thread

Then all the question answers asked would end up in the same place. Save everyone repeating the same thing over and over again and would be easier to see what has been said and what has been tried

The oil leak will be fairly new otherwise it would be a fail on the last MOT

Unless you have hit a massive hole and damaged the strut it’s unlikely to be the cause of any noise

To answer your question. No any noise from the strut will be on that side

Once the oil is lost the ride is uncomfortable for a passenger. The car becomes dangerous to drive

Needs changing regardless ASAP you will probably also have to cut the drop link off if it’s been on for a few winters

Sometimes works if you spay them with penetrating oil for a few days. Then tighten them slightly before undoing. I have just done both the struts and drop links within the last few months. Three came off one had to be hacksawed off

 

[irc]

By coincidence, last week I swapped out the dampers on a 2010 1.1. I can confirm that truly knackered dampers will happily make a clacking noise, along with a selection of other unusual noises, rather than the normal mechanical thump that a weak damper usually makes.
But... they were the worst pair I have ever seen on a Panda. (How nobody noticed the strange ride characteristics, noises or damper oil is a mystery to me.) One side had no rebound at all, and the other managed a weak rebound of about 10mm when compressed.
I occasionally come across one side which has leaked most of it's oil, but usually the other only has a mild weep at worst, and the majority of the noises come from lower arm rear bush and drop link wear. Strangely, these were all fine on this one.
I got the MOT on this car last year. Both dampers were fine, and it has only done about 6000 miles since, and they were a trusted brand (I don't use the really cheap brands as they can be more trouble than they are worth, and good quality ones are pretty cheap anyway)
I suspect in that time it never met a pothole it didn't get friendly with....

 

[koalar]

Mine would lock solid if you hit a speed hump too fast.

Not good not safe and painful

Definitely hit a bad pot hole at speed about a month previous

I doesn’t surprise me that same parts have different symptoms. This is why it’s best to diagnose the faults before ordering the parts

 

[koalar]

Just an example of why the scatter gun approach can get expensive

heat shield
Exhaust clamp
Exhaust banging
Airbox
Drop links
Struts
Top mounts
Lower arm
Subframe bolt
Inner outer ball joint
Brakes
Wheel nuts
Drive shafts
Engine mounts
Brake pipe protection tray
Broken springs and many more

Rattling I be looking at the drop links first. Both wheels have to be the same height to test

Thud I be looking at the lower arm and subframe bolts first

 

[DaveMcT]

Please can we get we get two of the three duplicate posts deleted.

 

[koalar]

Not the best videos









How-To Check Stabilizer Links - YouTube



Quickly Diagnose Steering & Suspension Clunking Vibrating Shaking Noise in your Car - Toyota - YouTube

It’s much easier to diagnose drop links if the wheels are the same heights