Technical Fiat Ducato motorhome 2007 x250 glow plug relay question

[Snowey1]

Hi all

My glow plug relay on my 2007 X250 Hymer doesn’t clic on and the glow plug light on the dash only illuminates only for a split second. The engine is near impossible to start now the colder weather is here and I need to get the Glow Plugs working. I’ve tested the plugs as per the forum here and they have a 1.7omh resistance (same as the new Bosch ones I bought just in case). My question is if I have faulty glow plugs will the ECU stop the relay working? I’ve checked Fuse F11 and that is ok , I’ve not checked the relay earth yet. I’ve taken the cover off the relay and pushed the contacts together and I can hear the the heater fan slowing down so current is being drawn by the plugs although it still doesn’t start straight away like it should. I did think to strip it down and just test the relay with the new glow plus just temporarily attached. Sorry forgot to say I have tried a new relay and no change. I know you’re all saying just put the new plugs in but as they’ve never been touched I’m expecting them all to shear off, and as it’s an A class access is nigh impossible.Any help would be gratefully received.

 

[the green vanper]

Hello,

Have you tried connecting and reading the errors with MultiEcuScan?

It should give you some hints where to start from.

 

[Snowey1]

No I haven’t I will look into today and see how to do it.

 

[jackwhoo]

If the electrical connector for glow plugs to glow relay has a wire for each individual glow plug , disconnect the connector from relay and test each glow plug individually. If the resistance for wash plug is correct then you don't have a faulty glow plug.

 

[jackwhoo]

What is the approximate air temperature when you are trying to start ?

 

[bugsymike]

Hi all

My glow plug relay on my 2007 X250 Hymer doesn’t clic on and the glow plug light on the dash only illuminates only for a split second. The engine is near impossible to start now the colder weather is here and I need to get the Glow Plugs working. I’ve tested the plugs as per the forum here and they have a 1.7omh resistance (same as the new Bosch ones I bought just in case). My question is if I have faulty glow plugs will the ECU stop the relay working? I’ve checked Fuse F11 and that is ok , I’ve not checked the relay earth yet. I’ve taken the cover off the relay and pushed the contacts together and I can hear the the heater fan slowing down so current is being drawn by the plugs although it still doesn’t start straight away like it should. I did think to strip it down and just test the relay with the new glow plus just temporarily attached. Sorry forgot to say I have tried a new relay and no change. I know you’re all saying just put the new plugs in but as they’ve never been touched I’m expecting them all to shear off, and as it’s an A class access is nigh impossible.Any help would be gratefully received.

If you have a good amp meter and can get to each heater plug wire it should show a drain of about 10 amps on each working heater plug.
I have tested for resistance in the past and thought OK , but still faulty.

It has to be a good amp meter with a range in excess of 20 amps approx (mine is an old garage Wilkson test set that goes to 60 amps) Remember it has to be in series with the injector, unless you have a clamp on type.
You can test against a new one as a guide.
One important detail , I don't know what engine you have , but some heater plug systems work at 4.4 volts etc. so if you connect to the vehicle battery direct you will kill them.
So check first, it should be written on the new ones.

 

[Snowey1]

Thank you for that suggestion yes I will get an ammeter and try that, I’m pretty sure they are 12volt glow plugs but will check, the motor is a 2.2 JTD at 120hp.

 

[Snowey1]

Hi Thank you for your input, yes I did remove the relay and try the resistance to each plug down the individual wires and came up with 1.7 ohms which was the same as the new plugs I have. But I have feeling it’s high as other threads say it should be around 1 ohm. I’m also not sure how accurate the test meter is.
The temperature when I tried to start it was about 8 degrees so not very cold but no way would it fire up, probably tried for 5 minutes then gradually 1 cylinder then another and I eventually got it going with clouds of smoke and soot, good job I put a new battery on a few months ago.

 

[bugsymike]

Thank you for that suggestion yes I will get an ammeter and try that, I’m pretty sure they are 12volt glow plugs but will check, the motor is a 2.2 JTD at 120hp.

Guessing that is the Ford Puma engine? I have a Fiat Scudo with the 2.0litre, but that is the Peugeot 16 valve one and the heater plugs were a sod to get to, having to remove all the EGR cooler stuff etc. down between the bulkhead and back of engine by guesswork and one of those endoscopy type cameras, once I got to them they came out easily. I have a couple of 2010 Doblos and they use the low voltage heater plugs. Strangely they came out a treat as well. So you never know your luck.
I think if they haven't been replaced before it is easier than if they have been overtightened in a previous life.

 

[jackwhoo]

I do not think the glow plugs are faulty

 

[jackwhoo]

This is a duplicate thread that now has
replies and different info on both threads.

 

[jackwhoo]

The 2.2 ford engine should start very promptly without glow plugs aroundc8 degrees centigrade.
I do not think the poor starting related glow plugs at all.

 

[jackwhoo]

Did the hard starting coincide with the fitting of a new fuel filter?

If vehicle fitted with an electric fuel pump inside the fuel tank is the pump working?

Air filter checked for blockage? And inlet air trunking (rodents can set up home in these things)

Using scan tool that shows live data look at fuel rail pressure when trying to start.