General Fiat croma 2007 low rpm

[A8I]

Hello everyone. I have a Fiat croma, diesel, manual, 150 hp, 2007. I changed the EGR, the collector sensor, collector cleaning, particular filter cleaning and it is still blocked. I have put injectors cleaner also. Driving in low gear it simply gets blocked, when i put it in Neutral and go to +3500 rpm it unclogs, then at traffic lights it gets blocked again. Lately it can even move from parking, even when the gas pedal is full presed it would go just a bit over 1000 rpm.The computer does not show any kind of error. Any ideas anyone? Thank you in advance

 

[s130]

When you had your oil changed was the Oil Reset done? This is different to the normal Service Reset and not something that you can check on the car's Service menu.

If the Oil Reset has not been done then the engine ECU will think the engine still has old oil and as the regeneration process creates lots of heat and stress on the engine oil (and engine) then the car will *not* do an automatic regeneration. You can't force regen either until the Oil Rest has been done.

 

[A8I]

When you had your oil changed was the Oil Reset done? This is different to the normal Service Reset and not something that you can check on the car's Service menu.

If the Oil Reset has not been done then the engine ECU will think the engine still has old oil and as the regeneration process creates lots of heat and stress on the engine oil (and engine) then the car will *not* do an automatic regeneration. You can't force regen either until the Oil Rest has been done.

Thank you for your response. No it is not done. I will try this. Today i tried to start the engine and it failed with the first try. With some difficulties it started with the second try, a long one. The gas pedal wont accelerate when in neutral. Even this time the car had some added vibrances than it went in a near normal function. Also i changed the battery 2 months before but i dont know if this has to do in this case.

 

[s130]

Thank you for your response. No it is not done. I will try this. Today i tried to start the engine and it failed with the first try. With some difficulties it started with the second try, a long one. The gas pedal wont accelerate when in neutral. Even this time the car had some added vibrances than it went in a near normal function. Also i changed the battery 2 months before but i dont know if this has to do in this case.

You will need diagnostic kit to reset the oil change. It can not be done from the car's menus but you probably already know this from the Service Reset if that was done.

 

[A8I]

You will need diagnostic kit to reset the oil change. It can not be done from the car's menus but you probably already know this from the Service Reset if that was done.

I will try this first and let know. Thanks in advance

 

[A8I]

I will try this first and let know. Thanks in advance

The mechanic said the engine was not in phase, it slipped. That was the cause that it wouldn't go above 1000 rpm. He is now testing for any other damage that may have been happened.

 

[A8I]

The mechanic said the engine was not in phase, it slipped. That was the cause that it wouldn't go above 1000 rpm. He is now testing for any other damage that may have been happened.

This didnt resolve totally the problem. I have changed this metallic hose but now the car wont go over 90 km/h with 2000 rpm in 5th gear. In 3rd gear it wont go over 2750rpm at 70 km/h.
Any new idea?

 

[jmi]

I had similar problems last winter. My 1.9jtdm Croma was simply out of power. Barely got 3000-3500rpm when gear was neutral. 0 to 80km/h was something like 5 minutes. And no any codes in ECU.

After some diagnostics found out that turbo was gone.

Check is "quite easy". Remove air intake pipes from turbo. Check is there any oil in air compression side, should have none. And also check how turbo turbine feels. It should rotate freely with slight slack in it.

 

[A8I]

I had similar problems last winter. My 1.9jtdm Croma was simply out of power. Barely got 3000-3500rpm when gear was neutral. 0 to 80km/h was something like 5 minutes. And no any codes in ECU.

After some diagnostics found out that turbo was gone.

Check is "quite easy". Remove air intake pipes from turbo. Check is there any oil in air compression side, should have none. And also check how turbo turbine feels. It should rotate freely with slight slack in it.

After all repairs, it was DPF filter clogged, again. The first mechanic didnt put the sealing of EGR in correct way so it looses air. Then it broke a metallic hose of EGR. During this time the DPF was clogged and it wont went over 90 km/h. Now that all the systems are fine, the turbo has started to whistle, a sign that is near breaking. In this moment the car can go near 130 km/h with some difficulties. Lets hope the turbo will last some time because this car has pissed me very bad.
Thanks for your comment.

 

[jmi]

It also might be that DPF simply is end of it's life. Or if turbo is leaking oil to exchaust it is clogged because of oil, like i had...

For EGR. Best thing to do, is to disable it. It can be done by programming ECU or getting third party black box what is connected between MAF and EGR connector.

Also to check if there is any help disabling EGR, remove connector from MAF. This puts all settings to factory defaults and closes EGR valve. For me this helped a lot how engine performed. And was reason to get EGR disabled. Of course disconnecting MAF causes check engine light to come on. But after reconnecting MAF it will go away.

 

[A8I]

It also might be that DPF simply is end of it's life. Or if turbo is leaking oil to exchaust it is clogged because of oil, like i had...

For EGR. Best thing to do, is to disable it. It can be done by programming ECU or getting third party black box what is connected between MAF and EGR connector.

Also to check if there is any help disabling EGR, remove connector from MAF. This puts all settings to factory defaults and closes EGR valve. For me this helped a lot how engine performed. And was reason to get EGR disabled. Of course disconnecting MAF causes check engine light to come on. But after reconnecting MAF it will go away.

After changing the turbo, finally, it is in perfect form.