That's the thing I'm saying; it might be a perfect setting, but still not activating the pump fully...I tried a different pump and solved a similar issue.
General FIAT 500D CUTTING OUT THEN NOT RESTARTING AFTER 2 MILES
- Thread starter handy andy
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General FIAT 500D CUTTING OUT THEN NOT RESTARTING AFTER 2 MILES
Don't buy a new pump. Remove yours and look at the activating level and try to fathom out if its geometry gives good contact with the push-rod. Maybe just crank it carefully, with the carb flexible pipe delivering to a container. The fuel should absolutely gush out. anything less and I would be suspicious.
Great tip , thanks.
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I would check the fuel tank breather, a blocked breather is a classic cause of a car that will run fine for a while then die only to restart fine once its had 10 mins for the pressure to equalise in the fuel tank.
Yes , missed it off my done list but I did do it before swapping fuel line .
Thanks
I feel your pain as I went through exactly the same thing and I worked on it for over a year. It drives you absolutely crazy and I got to the stage that the car needed a priest to exorcise it rather than a mechanic. I suspect it was the reason why the previous owner sold the car. After checking and changing everything several times over I proved it was due to the coil overheating. I ran the car with two coils and when it died I could switch coils in a minute and the car would immediately start. Trouble was I did not know why. Fitting a 123 electronic ignition (cap type) solved the problem instantly as it also ran with a twin spark dry coil.
Just after that I ran a 650 engine and I fitted later Polish type ignition fitted with a Hall Effect (Accuspark) electronic ignition, no distributor cap and again a twin spark dry coil. I was running around town and shortish runs with absolutely no problems until one day I headed of to a classic car rally on a blistering hot day, had to queue for ages to get on the site and almost as soon as I did smoke was belching out of the engine cover. So much you could not see where it was coming from. Turned out I had burnt out the new coil. As I was scratching my head thinking what to do a guy drove into the site in a Fiat 500 so I went over to have a chat then saw he had the exact same ignition set up but his included a ballast resistor. Had to get recovery out but fixed it this time with the resistor.
Sounds complex
On the overheating thing I’ve never understood why the fiat doesn’t have sealing plates around the engine like the VW s do.
All that hot air from the exhaust just gets sucked back through the motor seems strange.
I really feel for you, but when you say “its such a simple little engine” I know its no help but when you have more cylinders & bigger & more sophisticated ancillaries things run smoother. From what I have found every piece of the engine in a 500 has to be set up correctly as there is very little margin of error. Keep going ! You will find the answer.
I’m having this problem. What faults codes is your car storing? I’ve had two new coil packs and leads, but the electrical garage can’t get to the bottom of it. Mines a panda by the way.
hodgy18
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Somebody told me (not sure if it was on here) that the coil pack was located on the left hand side of the engine away from all the heat originally.
I've always been tempted to relocate it, as I get the hot issues. However mine ran alot better when the tappets where adjusted correctly after identifying the engine as a 594 as oppose to 650 which the previous owner thought it was. Once adjusted it ran for longer. I think now, it's down to the coil getting hot. I did also replace the distributor cap with a new old stock one as the it was worn, which wouldn't helped matters.
I've always been tempted to relocate it, as I get the hot issues. However mine ran alot better when the tappets where adjusted correctly after identifying the engine as a 594 as oppose to 650 which the previous owner thought it was. Once adjusted it ran for longer. I think now, it's down to the coil getting hot. I did also replace the distributor cap with a new old stock one as the it was worn, which wouldn't helped matters.
I had similar issues in the past.
Here's my 2 pennyworth for what its worth.
If it is stalling when it gets hot then something is changing due to the heat.
I appreciate you say you have set the tappets. What settings did you use?
Have you checked you have used the correct feeler gauge? I made that mistake once.
The tappets seem to be the largest cause for this on the 500's.
Next is usually condenser. I know this has been mentioned previously but most definitely worth checking again.
I found old condensers to still work fine where new ones just seem to fail.
Possibly coil is getting too hot, but they usually do. If it is a D then it should be on the left and therefore not so hot. Unless it is breaking down.
Its unlikely to be anything else electrical as plugs/leads will make it misfire, points (if you have them) are mechanical.
The last suggestion for me is fuel. certain pumps have been known to fail when they get hot. Peter on here once told me the Italians were known to **** on the pump when it gets too hot to help cool it down. Believe that if you wish.
Air leak in the carb area again usually will result in running problems but not usually completely stop running.
Here's my 2 pennyworth for what its worth.
If it is stalling when it gets hot then something is changing due to the heat.
I appreciate you say you have set the tappets. What settings did you use?
Have you checked you have used the correct feeler gauge? I made that mistake once.
The tappets seem to be the largest cause for this on the 500's.
Next is usually condenser. I know this has been mentioned previously but most definitely worth checking again.
I found old condensers to still work fine where new ones just seem to fail.
Possibly coil is getting too hot, but they usually do. If it is a D then it should be on the left and therefore not so hot. Unless it is breaking down.
Its unlikely to be anything else electrical as plugs/leads will make it misfire, points (if you have them) are mechanical.
The last suggestion for me is fuel. certain pumps have been known to fail when they get hot. Peter on here once told me the Italians were known to **** on the pump when it gets too hot to help cool it down. Believe that if you wish.
Air leak in the carb area again usually will result in running problems but not usually completely stop running.
The Panda Nut
Nutty about Pandas Infected by Panda virus and OPD
It also sounds like it could even be blocked fuel line. Maybe try back blowing to the tank. My first thought was blocked fuel filter but you have changed that. 3 causes of this Ive had over many years.
coil / leads
conenser
fuel starvation
Check fuel tank filler cap venting too. And never trust new parts entirely.
coil / leads
conenser
fuel starvation
Check fuel tank filler cap venting too. And never trust new parts entirely.
the hobbler
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Have you tried driving the car with the fuel-tank filler cap OFF. This would prove one way or the other if it was venting corrrectly. If it is NOT venting, the vacuum caused by the pump pulling through fuel (or rather, trying to) would prevent the engine running.
