Technical Engine keeps stalling when you take your foot of the accelerator .

[Cov66]

Hi, looking for some advice on my fiat Panda 1ltre 2009
My engine keeps stalling when you take the foot off the accelerator, it started a couple of days ago.
I stopped off to get something, started the car and the engine started to over rev, I turned it off and battery became flat, got it jump started and everytime I now take my foot off the accelerator it stalls, have replaced the battery and is still doing it?

 

[koalar]

Are you sure the new battery is okay

It is classic symptoms of a faulty battery

Here's mine from a long while again (2017)

1.1 cold start idle problem | FIAT Panda (Mk3)

Girlfriends active has started to play up. Its difficult to start. If you take your foot off the throttle it stalls. If you hold the throttle down for a minute then it will drive fine. Multiecuscan says the desired idle is 1400 RPM but it starts at 750 RPM and lowers to 700 and stops...

www.fiatforum.com

Do you have a multimeter or test light

When it's running is the engine more not as smooth as normal, slight vibration felt, is the a slight pop pop sound from the exhaust, does it feel down on power at low revs

Any odd noises knocking noise, under accelerator, when the engine is cold

 

[Cov66]

Thanks for the reply.
Yes I do have muilti meter.
I believe it was not a powerful.
If i remember there may have been a slight rattle.
But not with the car at present time.

 

[koalar]

I suspect a misfire on two cylinders is causing the stalling

Let's eliminate the battery as it's quick

If you have another car running and jump leads connected, Does the car idle properly until the jump leads are removed

Also here some basic first checks

First measure the battery resting voltage, should be around 12.5V give or take 0.2V after the stood for a couple hour or more

If the cars just been driven switch the ignition and the headlights on for a couple of minutes, then switch off and then measure

Engine running should be 14.1V across the battery terminals

From the battery negative to the engine block, while cranking should be under 200mV


I suspect if you listen to the exhaust instead of prprprprprprprprprprprprprprprprprprprprprprprpr

You will hear

Prprpr. Prprpr. Prprpr. Prprpr. Prprpr.

In which case start by finding which cylinders aren't firing properly

Remove one HT lead at a time and start the car

The ones that make little or no difference are the one no contributing much to the running

Slightly different layout as mine is a later 1.2
And I am only showing the car runs on 2 or 3 cylinders

You need to

Remove cylinder 1 lead start car, stop car put lead back
Remove cylinder 2 lead start car, stop car put lead back
Remove cylinder 3 lead start car, stop car put lead back
Remove cylinder 4 lead start car, stop car put lead back

And report back

 

[Cov66]

Thanks, I'll will try that when I get back home.
I did check the battery and was around 14vdc and slightly drop down when I turn on the headlamp.
I'll try the leads to see if that the problem then. Thanks again.