Technical Ducato 11 JTD won't start

[Bartfarst]

Please can I request help with my Ducato 11 JTD.

I have recently purchased a 2005 write-off with a view to transferring the running gear to my old 2.0l Boxer campervan - a major job I know, but I think I can do it. Anyway, I've cleared-out all the broken bits of bumper, aircleaner and headlight and bent back the bodywork to the point where I'm pretty clear that there's no damage to the loom, ECU, rad, MAF etc. I've reset the cut-off inertia switch.

When I try to start the engine it nearly fires on first pull but thereafter there's no hint of it running. I've checked for fault codes via OBDII but there are none. However I loose connection on cranking - indicative of insufficient voltage? However cranking speed seems OK.

The in-tank lift pump runs for about 8 seconds on initial switch-on and, during this period, the external direction indicator lights come on steady - is this correct? I found evidence of some additional electronic equipment having been fitted behind the dash - perhaps a tracking device or additonal immobiliser - but this appears to have been removed/snipped-out. However I want to be sure that there's no residual 'black box' flashing the indicators and stopping the engine running. BTW the key seems to be recognised fine.

When running the lift pump makes a clicking type of noise rather than a buzz as I experience with my Xsara HDi with the same engine. Is that correct? I will try to measure the supply pressure tomorrow as I suspect it may be at fault - a trickle of fuel issues from it when running disconnected rather than a spurt as I'd expected.

Please could anyone comment on my observations or suggest a sequence of diagnosis, or point me to the most likely causes of non-starting?

Thanks,


Stuart

 

[corkman]

JTD is high pressure injection 1500bar - higher than the pressures used to cut concrete with a water jet so you really don't want to try cracking the injector pipes like in old style diesel. The system is self bleeding you just turn the key to the first position a few times until you hear no more bubbles in the tank.

The only way to manually check the pressure is to measure the voltage on the rail pressure sensor on the rail. The ecu will not start the engine unless the pressure reaches a certain pressure 200 or 300bar can't remember which. If you are loosing connection due to the voltage dropping the ecu is not lightly to start the engine give the battery a full charge and hook it up to another vehicle that running while you crank it.

 

[Bartfarst]

Thanks Corkman,

Just clarifying, the pressures I am intending to measure are on the lift side of the system, rather than the common rail. Please could anyone advise me on the sound made by a 'normal' lift pump and how long it will usually run on turning on the ignition?

I'm attaching a second battery today and will start checking voltages. Does anyone know which relay controls the lift pump please?

If the pump is at fault, please is it possible to save a bit by changing just the pump rather than the whole sender unit etc? Also can the pump itself be disassembed to check for damage/blockage or electrical faults on the armature or commutator?

Thanks, Stuart

 

[Bartfarst]

Sorted! All manner of strange behaviour was traced to a detached earth point in the area of the vehicle affected by crash damage. Now she starts and runs sweet.Thanks again, Stuart

 

[paddyponchero]

Sorted! All manner of strange behaviour was traced to a detached earth point in the area of the vehicle affected by crash damage. Now she starts and runs sweet.Thanks again, Stuart

Lucky nothing got fried! When the earth is gone power will go all sorts of ways to earth. Good luck with the project be sure to take some pictures.