Technical dead stilo

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Technical dead stilo

Joined
Apr 11, 2006
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manchester
hi team sorry ive not been on for a while , its hard to get on the comp with the wife on it all the time , any way i have a problem i put a new 600 amp battery on last night , it then started ace , this mornin it started ace stopped for 5 mins , it started ace , left it at work for 9 hours came out tonight and it is dead got on dash beep beep asr fault , security fault loose connection . not a click normal dash lights were on , i took off the batt earth lead for 5 mins , reconnected it and still nowt but every warning light was on when the ign turned on , any ideas at all , thanks in advance , dave
sorry its a 1.6 52
 
hi team sorry ive not been on for a while , its hard to get on the comp with the wife on it all the time , any way i have a problem i put a new 600 amp battery on last night , it then started ace , this mornin it started ace stopped for 5 mins , it started ace , left it at work for 9 hours came out tonight and it is dead got on dash beep beep asr fault , security fault loose connection . not a click normal dash lights were on , i took off the batt earth lead for 5 mins , reconnected it and still nowt but every warning light was on when the ign turned on , any ideas at all , thanks in advance , dave

Where's Rroope when you need him :p
 
600amp? Whats it powering, a house?

Hmm, I reckon the battery is too high a capacity and isn't being charged well enough (a JTD only takes 450amps).

Either that, or there is a voltage drain (ala our 1.6). Get the battery tested. If you have no luck with the car, a 2min body computer reset should help - did with ours :).
 
the battery i took off was low on ampage and i kept gettin messages on the dash like coolant temp when the engine was cold , the new battery is an 075 600 amp 70 ah approx , the mechanic even put a battery pack on it and it was still dead
 
Ok, if the battery pack isn't helping, it could be a supply problem. Check all the wiring in the battery box - if some of it was hit/tugged when you changed the battery, this could cause it. The engine node wiring goes through here and this could be causing all your problems.
 
the battery i took off was low on ampage and i kept gettin messages on the dash like coolant temp when the engine was cold , the new battery is an 075 600 amp 70 ah approx , the mechanic even put a battery pack on it and it was still dead
So the battery is not dead (or near dead) but the Stilo just wont start :chin:

Sounds a tricky one. I'd just look for connections that might have got moved when the new battery was fitted. Does seem strange that it started fine the 1st three times though. Dealer job by the sound of it :(


EDIT: Doing that mind reading thing again Rich :D
 
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When you say "still dead", what do you mean? It is the electrical faults causing it not to start or is it voltage issues?
 
everything lit up like headlamps and the windows went up n down ok with just the battery on the car but when the key was turned there was not a click , after i disconnected the earth lead for 5 mins and reconnected it every light on the dash lit up permanently when the ign put on , its at an auto spark at the moment , keep ya all posted , thanks for all your help
 
its back at home now , the auto spark said it was a bad engine earth so he put a new earth lead on the engine and reset a list as long as ya arm of faults it recorded and its running again , thanks for all ya replys guys
 
Doesn't this problem sound exactly like that D4 connector fault?
I think, the brown one in the battery tray? Maybe something to keep in mind for the next time ;)

As for the 600 Amp battery, that refers to the cold-cranking-amps that it can deliver. It's not necessarily related to the capacity in Ah., e.g. a relatively small battery can have a high CCA if the resistance of the plates is low. Gel-cells have very high current capabilities also (those jump-starter packs).

There is absolutely no threat in having a battery with a higher CCA rating than necessary (I've never disagreed with Rroope before, so this is a first - hope he forgives me :)) Even if the capacity (Ah) is higher, that just means that from flat, the battery may take longer to charge (so, rroope is right there, except that the alternator should be more than capable of achieving this, and even if not, an overnight charge from a battery charger will get it ready).
 
Doesn't this problem sound exactly like that D4 connector fault?
I think, the brown one in the battery tray? Maybe something to keep in mind for the next time ;)

As for the 600 Amp battery, that refers to the cold-cranking-amps that it can deliver. It's not necessarily related to the capacity in Ah., e.g. a relatively small battery can have a high CCA if the resistance of the plates is low. Gel-cells have very high current capabilities also (those jump-starter packs).

There is absolutely no threat in having a battery with a higher CCA rating than necessary (I've never disagreed with Rroope before, so this is a first - hope he forgives me :)) Even if the capacity (Ah) is higher, that just means that from flat, the battery may take longer to charge (so, rroope is right there, except that the alternator should be more than capable of achieving this, and even if not, an overnight charge from a battery charger will get it ready).

No no it's cool, I just remembered something about higher-rated batteries and charging issues . . . I was severely hungover at a Yuasa/Halfords course at the time so wasn't paying attention :p
 
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