Technical Dead Panda

[davidof]

The wife has twice found her Panda completely dead - central locking not working, no power only for it to come back to life a few seconds later. Of course the clock etc has to be reset.

We changed the battery about 3 months ago and the voltage looks ok (12.8V).

It is a 69 HP, 1.2 Panda with a petrol engine.

Anyone got any ideas? There is no engine warning light but I'm going to try an ECE scan now.

 

[RalphM]

Sounds like a bad connection or earth,
Mine was doing similar but it did id as I turned the key to ign
a new ign switch cured it, if it's the same type as mine you can
change the switch part without messing with the key or steering
lock part they are about £15 on evil bay.

 

[davidof]

Bad earth is a good idea maybe something with the ECU or ECU connectors.

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

It might be worth checking that the quick-release earth connector on the battery is fully clicked into place. It's designed so you can detach the negative lead quickly to do work on the car and is a push-to-cick fit connector (the lead clicks onto the bracket that stays fixed to the earth/negative post of the battery)

 

[davidof]

I will double check the battery connectors, good idea.

The side lights and internal lights flicker a bit when the engine is running but are completely stable when just on the battery. Which made me thing voltage regulator.

I would take it to Fiat - I'm based in France and there are few staff in any of the garages at the moment due to (Covid, Brexit , Furlough - delete as appropriate) with delays to get appointments measured in weeks.

 

[RalphM]

If it is dead what brings it back? or does it just mysteriously come back to life?
the flickering again could be a bad connection or maybe the alternator diodes
are failing this could flatten the battery but why would it come back to life,
What volts are you getting with it running.

 

[Leroypanda]

Dont discount a duff battery even though its new

 

[murphyv310]

Hi.
Try and check the battery volts when the fault is apparent assuming you get the chance.

 

[varesecrazy]

Hi.
Try and check the battery volts when the fault is apparent assuming you get the chance.

A plug.in £5 ciggylighter digital display could be useful there

 

[murphyv310]

A plug.in £5 ciggylighter digital display could be useful there

Hi.
True, but when the fault is apparent it would be good to see what actual voltage is on the battery terminals, the socket only becomes live when the ignition is switched on. If voltage was OK on the battery and the car is dead it points to bad connections or earthing. This would eliminate or condemn the battery.

 

[KPat]

Hi.
True, but when the fault is apparent it would be good to see what actual voltage is on the battery terminals, the socket only becomes live when the ignition is switched on. If voltage was OK on the battery and the car is dead it points to bad connections or earthing. This would eliminate or condemn the battery.

Or turn on the interior light which does not go by the ignition switch. If that light is affected then I would be looking at battery and connections.

 

[murphyv310]

Or turn on the interior light which does not go by the ignition switch. If that light is affected then I would be looking at battery and connections.

Again perfectly true, but a voltmeter will tie down the issue far easier than the interior light or anything else downstream of the battery. Check at source then move futher down.
Had many instances of no mains at the switch on a TV, fuse is in the plug OK only to find a break in the mains cable. Had a similar issue way back in my 1960 beetle. No lights and dead ignition. 6.3v on the battery nothing up front at all. Turned out to be the main lead from the battery had parted company on the starter at the solenoid (pre engaged starter) fault finding is far quicker with a suitable meter.

 

[The Panda Nut]

I agree with Murph here. It could be worth changing the plip battery too.

This sound like a main supply issue. I had a similar issue with a Uno many years ago and it was the starter motor internal fault, The replacement was just the same which confused things. I have also had faulty new batteries! That was however intermittent starting.
The Panda starter is low down and rather open to water if driven through floods.

I suggest
Check Battery ask for a short circuit drop test.
Then check battery leads and quick release.
Then starter and alternator connections.
Check the main earth lead connections
Starter and alternator connections
If you have flickering lights still recheck the battery and charge voltage while the engine is running and the alternator output.

Flickering lights and central locking trouble could be separate issues, hence suggest change the key battery. I have had a pile of these key batteries that were no good from several places recently. Get a Duracell one from a high turnover outlet like Tesco!

If you have or can get access to a MES ECU scan then any charge rate and voltage issues will be easy to see.

 

[davidof]

Hi,

I've been away for a few days.

Before I went I unplugged and cleaned the ICU connectors with contact cleaner.

Car started first time on return.

The "dead car" has happened 3 times in the last month - the central locking is off and you have to open the car by key. The car is completely dead then a few seconds later, like a zombie, it springs back into life.

Battery volts are around 13 with the ignition off around 14.5/14.8 with the engine running.

Does anyone have a good recommendation for an OBD scanner for Android that works well with FIAT? I've tried the free ones but all are a bit lacking but the free ones I've tried all said no faults logged.

I will recheck some of the points above tomorrow. The flickering is quite subtle so I wonder if it is just normal with the alternator running. I don't remember noticing it before but it is the wife's car so I don't keep an eye on these things.