Technical Couple of questions from new 100hp owner

[DaveMcT]

Hopefully the new slave cylinder will solve any allow pedal return issues. But if the clutch starts to drag (not releasing properly, it's probably the master cylinder seals sucking in air. If bleeding fluid improves it for a while then you'll knows the master giving trouble. New master will sort that.

 

[GaryJ79]

Yeah mate, as I said don't want to get too cocky as it improved a lot when I did a flush with the old old one and also it just took a few fairly light twist too pretty much disintegrated and now it just feels much sharper and smoother.

Took a second test spin of the day on a B road and got to say that loads of times I just loved how taking the corner felt with a bit of acceleration but taking a peak at the speedo and realising your only doing 35-40! Never had a car feel so deceptively quick. All with the very simple but effective SPORT button lol, Fun wee bugger!

Also another wee technical question for the wise ones. Any one know of any common floor/rust issues I should check for and would it be worth coating the floor in something to keep rust away. Any recommendations welcome?

 

[DaveMcT]

Spray the undersides and inside all box sections with something like Lanoguard. Use a cheap endoscope camera to look inside the inaccessible places.

 

[koalar]

Also another wee technical question for the wise ones. Any one know of any common floor/rust issues I should check for and would it be worth coating the floor in something to keep rust away. Any recommendations welcome?

Sills

About 4 inches from the rear wheel arch

Right at the very bottom

Very, common to rust through, high percentage of 06 and earlier have had at least the near side platted.

Few of the brackets, exhaust, brake, hand brake corrode off, occasionally but no great problems


Worth clearing out the mud trap being the front wheel arch plastic liner.

But generally they are pretty solid if they haven't been in an accident.

 

[irc]

Check the Boot floor. Water ingress around the rear end can lead to a perpetually damp spare wheel well, which will eventually break out in scabby rust.

Also, the rear suspension "turrets", where the bump stops fit. These can rust at the very bottom, causing the bump stop to fall out.
Seen this on cars with virtually no other rust. Best fix is to use a repair section cut from a scrap Panda, although it can be fabricated by hand.

On 100HPs and Sportings the sill covers can hide the extent of the problem until it is pretty nasty. Unfortunately taking the covers off usually requires new clips to re-fit, so people tend not to bother.

As above, they are normally fine unless they have been in an accident. Pattern wings are the biggest culprit, but any original panel which has been repaired in the past needs careful checking. Especially rear wheel arches.

 

[DaveMcT]

ALL WELDED REPAIRS will need the inside treating with a water dispersing wax. The new Lanoguard sounds good. Waxoyl has the name but its very hard to spray and it dries out leaving little to no protection.

Get a cheap endoscope camera that works with a smartphone and take look inside.

The mud trap at the front can lead to rust creeping down into the box section underneath. It's well worth pulling off the struts and get in there to properly clean and treat damaged paint or sealant. To see inside the box sections you'll need to remove the front bumper.

A scraper on a stick and a good spray of ACF-50 followed by wax will deal with anything that's started to go. The plastic bumper has to come off for access but when that's off, you'll be able to catch anything that might lead to trouble. Replace the clip nuts and screws with stainless. Use a dab of anti-seize to avoid the threads galling.

Back bumper also hides trouble especially at the back edge of the outer wheel-arch and the steel lower crossbar. It's bolted on the same as the front so easy to remove/refit.