Technical Coolant loss, how quickly is normal?

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Technical Coolant loss, how quickly is normal?

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Dec 19, 2023
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I have a Fiat 500 2011 312 Petrol model. This car had a number of coolant leaks at the beginning of the year and I ended up replacing the water pump/gasket, both hoses coming from/to the radiator, the thermostat, the pipe on the engine block and all the jubilee clips - so basically everything except the rad itself and the pipes going to the firewall, which I can't get a good view of. The system seems to hold pressure fine and no overheating or any other problems with the car, but it is losing coolant at a rate of about 0.2L per month which seems a bit high to me. I've had a good look and can't see any signs of leakage anywhere. Before I buy a leak/pressure test kit can anyone chime in with how often their coolant needs topping up?

Cheers!
 
It should not lose anything noticable over a year
That, although it can take up to a week for the 500 to properly stabilise.

After a week of checking daily and topping up to the max line if necessary, you shouldn't lose more than about an eggcupful in 12 months.

If you're losing 200ml/month, you have a minor leak. I'd advise you to find and fix this before it becomes a major leak. If you run the engine for any the length of time when seriously low on coolant, you'll likely do serious damage to it.

Favourite places for minor leaks are the metal pipe running across the front of the engine (it's prone to corrosion), the thermostat housing (especially version with the plastic spigot; these are best avoided), and any of the hose connections. You can add a UV dye to the coolant and use a blacklight to help identify any potential problems.
 
Our 09 car has had new rad and new heater matrix( are the carpets wet/strange smell in car ) thermostat, metal coolant pipe and water pump, if that helps?
When the car is totally cold use a bright torch and look at the base of the rad for "wetness" ideally also from front(no ac) are there any water patches under the front when dry however small?
 
When you say you replaced the thermostat did you put a new one on with a METAL pipe from the thermo to the heater matrix? only ask cause mine leaked from the plastic union where the pipe attaches to the hose(it had a micro crack in it that eventually fractured causing catastrophic coolant loss!) a thermo with a METAL connection eliminates this possibility!.
Also if the heater matrix springs a leek its virtually impossible to spot until eventually you realise the carpets wet all the time! if you smell it it has a kinda "sweet" odour to it! also a R P I T A to swap out !
good luck tracing it mate¬.
 
Finally got round to looking at this today as it'd gone from MAX to MIN in less than a week. Found all 4 jubilee clips were loose on the new hoses I'd fitted. The hoses were very rigid when new, I think possibly they've softened/compressed with time and that allowed the clips to work their way loose. Either that or the clips are bad. Tightened the bejesus out of them (though not to the point of cutting into the pipe) and no leakage now, we'll see if it holds with time.

And yeah it's the metal version of the thermostat. No signs of leakage in the cabin. :)
 
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Finally got round to looking at this today as it'd gone from MAX to MIN in less than a week. Found all 4 jubilee clips were loose on the new hoses I'd fitted. The hoses were very rigid when new, I think possibly they've softened/compressed with time and that allowed the clips to work their way loose. Either that or the clips are bad. Tightened the bejesus out of them (though not to the point of cutting into the pipe) and no leakage now, we'll see if it holds with time.

And yeah it's the metal version of the thermostat. No signs of leakage in the cabin. :)
heres hoping thats it then!.
 
.... I think possibly they've softened/compressed with time and that allowed the clips to work their way loose......
Yep, as an older, time served engineer, I always dip the end I'm about fit in a cup of boiling water for about a minute, hard shake to remove droplets and offer up to fit. Remembering to have jubilee clip on first (and in the right orientation to get a driver on it at a decent angle).

A. The heat allows to pipe to go on easier.
B. The jubilee clip can compress it without it feeling like you're about to strip the limited screw thread.

All part of the game.

Just saying.....😉
 
Okay fun times again, after a few months of being stable it has now sprung a leak, seemingly from someplace different but I can't find it. After filling to MAX it slowly drops to about 1cm below the MIN line over the course of about a week and then seems to stay there. So far I've replaced:

Coolant pipe and seal
Water pump
Thermostat
Rad > Coolant pipe hose
Rad > Thermostat hose

As well as all associated jubilee clips. I'm not seeing any signs of leaks from the radiator, or any of the aforementioned parts. I'm seeing no signs of oil in the coolant. There's no signs of dampness in the footwell. Pretty sure that only leaves heater hose 51831614 and heat exchanger hose 51787527? There are very small spots of dried coolant in the dualogic robot area but they might be old (this car has a long history of coolant leaks since before I started working on it...)
 
On my car, 2012 Twinair, it was the reservoir itself. Water level allways dropped well beyond min and then stabilised. Allthough I could not spot any damage on the old part the new one holds the level stable near the max level. Maybe the plastic weld seam at the top was the culprit.
 
On my car, 2012 Twinair, it was the reservoir itself. Water level allways dropped well beyond min and then stabilised. Allthough I could not spot any damage on the old part the new one holds the level stable near the max level. Maybe the plastic weld seam at the top was the culprit.
I replaced the tank on my own 2012 Twinnie in December 2017. The brass insert embedded in the spigot holding the hose from the turbo was apparently expanding and contracting and caused minute splits in the plastic surrounding it;
1738715478262.png

Since replacement the level has sat constantly at the mid-point between max and min. 🙃
 
Hi all, I bit the bullet and purchased a leak tester, the DAYUAN 28pcs set @ £50.95. Worked perfectly, it found 3 of the jubilee clips I recently fitted were loose/leaking very slightly (top radiator hose x2 and pipe > reservoir hose x1), and there is also a small leak from one of the old hoses at the point where it connects to the cabin. I've tightened them up and it holds pressure for now. Does anyone know where to get the OEM clips from, I assume the ones I bought were just **** as I really tightened them up when I first installed them? It doesn't look like it is from the hoses becoming compressed/overtightened...

I've seen a few people recommend Gates Powergrip heatshrink over the top but it doesn't look like you can get them in the UK for a reasonable price

E: OK it looks like jubilee clips are the wrong type and I need band clamps, will order some
 
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OEM clips can be reused with special tools, but I throw them out when removed. Good clips should work well.

gr J
Cheep Jubilee clips are rubbish and never tighten down or hold properly! causing frustration and further problems ! I always buy high quality stainless steel ones from a specialist online company ! work well and have the benifit of not looking like they have been under the sea for five years when you open the bonnet! 🤔 😁 (y)
 
Hi all, I bit the bullet and purchased a leak tester, the DAYUAN 28pcs set @ £50.95. Worked perfectly, it found 3 of the jubilee clips I recently fitted were loose/leaking very slightly (top radiator hose x2 and pipe > reservoir hose x1), and there is also a small leak from one of the old hoses at the point where it connects to the cabin. I've tightened them up and it holds pressure for now. Does anyone know where to get the OEM clips from, I assume the ones I bought were just **** as I really tightened them up when I first installed them? It doesn't look like it is from the hoses becoming compressed/overtightened...

I've seen a few people recommend Gates Powergrip heatshrink over the top but it doesn't look like you can get them in the UK for a reasonable price

E: OK it looks like jubilee clips are the wrong type and I need band clamps, will order some

If you have any silicone sealant (even household bath sealer .. it's the same stuff ) but not Hylomar or any sealant that does not harden... just as you get to the tightening point of the clip, stuff a pea sized dollop of silicone into the gap between the band going "in" and the worm drive. Then tighten it up and let the silicone sealant go off.

It's soft and flexible, so you'll be able to unscrew the clip if/when you need but the silicone will stick the worm drive to the band and stop it vibrating loose.
But... you know what I'm going to say... better quality clips (only by "Jubilee", "Norma" or "Ace" branded items.. regardless what the seller calls them) tend to be less prone to gong walkabout.


Ralf S.
 
Just a question (only quickly scanned through so might have missed it) but has the cap been replaced? Just an idea as you seem to be getting regular leaks which suggests to me a possibility the system is over pressurising. Caps are often overlooked but obviously have to release pressure as required. Just an idea 🙂
 
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