Technical Coolant change 319 4x4 0.9 TA Any tips.

[The Panda Nut]

I want to do this job but cant find a new bottom hose anywhere. Im assuming cut the bottom hose clip drain reconnect and refill, but are there any bleed points or dangers to avoid? Im not touching the QR coupling as they never workm after dismantling. Im beginning to think main dealer can do it but there are none withing 150 miles I would trust to look at the car let alone touch it.

 

[Panda IIs]

I want to do this job but cant find a new bottom hose anywhere. Im assuming cut the bottom hose clip drain reconnect and refill, but are there any bleed points or dangers to avoid? Im not touching the QR coupling as they never workm after dismantling. Im beginning to think main dealer can do it but there are none withing 150 miles I would trust to look at the car let alone touch it.

If you are thinking main dealer then why not go to the Fiat Workshop in Royston - give yourself a daytrip from Nooorfolk ?

 

[benmac]

Easiest way is to take the header tank cap off then turn the car upside down. It'll all come out then but you may need to give it a bit of a shake near the end to get the last drops out

 

[Peter Pick-Up]

Take the header tank cap of, open heaterknob inside, take lowest coolant hose of, (have a new inox clamp ready).
Reconnect hose with new inox clamp, fill header tank, dont put cap up yet, start engine, let idle for some time, untill thermostat opens, see the level drop in the tank, refill till mark, close cap, let engine cool for some hours, and check level, top up if nessesary, done.
Use pink Paraflu G12 and distilled water, mix in 50% dillution, before filling.

 

[varesecrazy]

I want to do this job but cant find a new bottom hose anywhere. Im assuming cut the bottom hose clip drain reconnect and refill, but are there any bleed points or dangers to avoid? Im not touching the QR coupling as they never workm after dismantling. Im beginning to think main dealer can do it but there are none withing 150 miles I would trust to look at the car let alone touch it.

I have donee plenty of FIRE motors (Head Gasket changes..)

Not done a TA, BUT I suspect the Rad bleeds are the same,
unsure if the Heater Hose still has the plastic bleed screw (been a constant since 1990 I'm sure..)

Ask the folks who have done the Waterpump
@TTR.?

 

[Peter Pick-Up]

Remember, Paraflu G12 is long life coolant, should last 10 years at least....

 

[The Panda Nut]

If you are thinking main dealer then why not go to the Fiat Workshop in Royston - give yourself a daytrip from Nooorfolk ?

No thats a really good idea, I will call them

 

[The Panda Nut]

I have donee plenty of FIRE motors (Head Gasket changes..)

Not done a TA, BUT I suspect the Rad bleeds are the same,
unsure if the Heater Hose still has the plastic bleed screw (been a constant since 1990 I'm sure..)

Ask the folks who have done the Waterpump
@TTR.?

All the hoses are different and all marked 4x4. But unclear if TA and diesel are the same. I doubt it. I believe the rad top hose may be 5 feet long..... Cant even see the bottom one. I cant see the rad top or if there is a bleed screw. I need to get the sump guard off and go under. Im thinking of no bleed points found cut the bottom hose clip off drain via that. Catch the old stuff and measure quantity. Apply top air pressure to clear the matrix, refill with new hose clamp on. Undo header tank and raise it to give more head. No bleed point sugests it should self bleed. My neat antifreeze has yhe protection at 33% so about -20C, but it needs changing it looks wrong., lost allcolour and with it having dropped to under 10% protection its done. Not yet 7, though I strongly suspect it was changed by the dealer about 4 years ago.

 

[Peter Pick-Up]

All the hoses are different and all marked 4x4. But unclear if TA and diesel are the same. I doubt it. I believe the rad top hose may be 5 feet long..... Cant even see the bottom one. I cant see the rad top or if there is a bleed screw. I need to get the sump guard off and go under. Im thinking of no bleed points found cut the bottom hose clip off drain via that. Catch the old stuff and measure quantity. Apply top air pressure to clear the matrix, refill with new hose clamp on. Undo header tank and raise it to give more head. No bleed point sugests it should self bleed. My neat antifreeze has yhe protection at 33% so about -20C, but it needs changing it looks wrong., lost allcolour and with it having dropped to under 10% protection its done. Not yet 7, though I strongly suspect it was changed by the dealer about 4 years ago.

Don't make it more complicated than it is.
It's realy an easy job...