I have been used to working on the early engines and just changed the slave cylinder on the newer Euro 6 one and found the fitment is different. I ordered the Luk one which all parts shops say is correct for a 2019 1.2 500, link here. Only to find I needed to cut the extended edge off to enable it to fit flush. the first picture is the new cylinder I ordered and the second picture is the original slave cylinder that came with the car - anyway hope this helps anyone else facing this issue as I couldn't find the original part anywhere !
General clutch slave cylinder differences fiat 500 1.2
- Thread starter s7gpt
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General clutch slave cylinder differences fiat 500 1.2
Sorry to disagree, but wiggle room in the bolts and sleeves.
The Panda Nut
Nutty about Pandas Infected by Panda virus and OPD
S4P have both types, The old type cost me £25 in March of this year.
Had another look at the photo. Think it's just the wrong part. Here's mine in 2008 1.4. Part number starts 551. Looks like yours is 552?
thanks for the comments, I did try a few places and all suggested the LUK part I purchased, anyway nothing a hacksaw couldn't sort to make it fit and car all good now. I also replaced the master at same time and was great to not have to bleed anything as both parts came pre filled.
Only had the car a few months and noticed the connector between master and slave had been "repaired" and was leaking so decided to replace all with new
Only had the car a few months and noticed the connector between master and slave had been "repaired" and was leaking so decided to replace all with new
My part number on the casting. The cylinders are the same. Tried reading your number but it's too dirty 
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.Can anyone help issues with fiat 500 2013 clutch. I had a new slave cylinder fitted 12 months ago. Recently car is revving but not accelerating and there is a noise coming from under the car. I am assuming l need a new clutch. Firstly l am in Wales how much would the average cost be in a one man independent garage. I have also read l would need to replace the gear box? Is this the case? My little car is fine otherwise. Any help
Appreciated
It could be the clutch, hard to be certain.
Does the car move at all?
To diagnose, I'd imagine gearbox will have to come off
If it's only a new clutch I think £400-£500 is about the going rate in UK
More if your car has dual mass flywheel
As long as there's no internal damage on the transmission, there's no need for a new gearbox
Make sure they check for play in the input shaft which is quite common
Does the car move at all?
To diagnose, I'd imagine gearbox will have to come off
If it's only a new clutch I think £400-£500 is about the going rate in UK
More if your car has dual mass flywheel
As long as there's no internal damage on the transmission, there's no need for a new gearbox
Make sure they check for play in the input shaft which is quite common
I would start by checking for signs of oil leaks, could be contaminated clutch if it's only slipping under load
Engine off, stick a finger in this inspection window on the top of the bell housing
It'll be filthy, dry dust all good, if it's wet and oily and smelly then input shaft bearing and seal have failed. Gearbox apart to fix.
Also check under the car for any signs of oil leaking from the bottom of the bell housing. If there's oil here and it doesn't smell then probably crankshaft main rear seal has failed
Mine had both!
In any case, it's gearbox off and new clutch at least
Engine off, stick a finger in this inspection window on the top of the bell housing
It'll be filthy, dry dust all good, if it's wet and oily and smelly then input shaft bearing and seal have failed. Gearbox apart to fix.
Also check under the car for any signs of oil leaking from the bottom of the bell housing. If there's oil here and it doesn't smell then probably crankshaft main rear seal has failed
Mine had both!
In any case, it's gearbox off and new clutch at least
Thanks. I will check for an oil leak under the car. However l checked all levels yesrday and all were full - oil, water- brake clutch etc. I am a 64 year old woman who is trying her best to see what is wrong before l head to the garage. How do l see the bit of the engine you suggest. I guess its to the right hand side of the engine. I did look yesterday but could not see oil or lubricant etc. All looks dry
Yes, that's right, on the right hand side of the engine. It might be buried under hoses and wiring.
Again, gear oil has a strong distinctive smell
It doesn't take much oil contamination to cause a clutch to slip under acceleration, so levels might still look ok with a failed crank main rear seal or gearbox input shaft seal.
Ask around for a good local independent mechanic, if you take it in they might give it a spin to confirm symptoms for beer money
Again, gear oil has a strong distinctive smell
It doesn't take much oil contamination to cause a clutch to slip under acceleration, so levels might still look ok with a failed crank main rear seal or gearbox input shaft seal.
Ask around for a good local independent mechanic, if you take it in they might give it a spin to confirm symptoms for beer money
Well, if the clutch is only slipping when you try to accelerate
As in you press the throttle, the engine revs rise but you don't go any faster
Then it does sound similar to symptoms I had
I put up with it for 6 months driving around it
Not that I'd recommend doing that. But it's not critically urgent. Unless you need to go up any hills
If it helps at all, these were the affected parts on my car
Here you can see the clutch plate shiny with oil, and the inside of the bell housing coated with oil
Failed crank main rear seal, on the engine behind the flywheel. It's not supposed to be oily there
And this is the failed gearbox input shaft bearing. The ball bearings are supposed to be held in a plastic cage, but if the gearbox oil level is low it overheats, the plastic melts and then the input shaft wobbles about letting gear oil into the bell housing. And you can hear the bearing rattling when you're in neutral
Fingers crossed yours is less problematic.
Parts are cheap but it does take a long time
Sorry I don't know when dual mass flywheels (DMF) came in, if yours has one that could add quite a bit to the cost
As in you press the throttle, the engine revs rise but you don't go any faster
Then it does sound similar to symptoms I had
I put up with it for 6 months driving around it
Not that I'd recommend doing that. But it's not critically urgent. Unless you need to go up any hills
If it helps at all, these were the affected parts on my car
Here you can see the clutch plate shiny with oil, and the inside of the bell housing coated with oil
Failed crank main rear seal, on the engine behind the flywheel. It's not supposed to be oily there
And this is the failed gearbox input shaft bearing. The ball bearings are supposed to be held in a plastic cage, but if the gearbox oil level is low it overheats, the plastic melts and then the input shaft wobbles about letting gear oil into the bell housing. And you can hear the bearing rattling when you're in neutral
Fingers crossed yours is less problematic.
Parts are cheap but it does take a long time
Sorry I don't know when dual mass flywheels (DMF) came in, if yours has one that could add quite a bit to the cost
Thank you so much for this. Yes its slipping on acceleration but there's also a noise from under neath. Sounds like something rattling or spinning! Can l ask how much your repair cost. Mine is a basic 500 2013 plate. I love my little car and maybe l should have addressed this sooner. I had the slave cylinder replaced just over a year ago and they said the clutch was fine then
It's not fine now. Not anymore.
Can you sense a smell of burned oil while driving?
I did mine myself... over three days
Many hours just cleaning things.
But I've seen prices on here vary from £400 to over £800 if DMF required
Nothing to blame yourself for, clutch isn't a routine service item, there's nothing to do until they fail.
Probably not related to the slave cylinder
If this is the first clutch change it's done well
Only difficulty might be if input shaft has play. I'm not sure how many garages would be interested in pulling the gearbox apart to replace the bearing.
They might prefer to just put it back or recommend replacement with a reconditioned box.
The noise could be anything, might not be related to the clutch at all.
Is it always there or only certain times, over bumps, on left or right turns, does it change with road speed or engine speed?
Many hours just cleaning things.But I've seen prices on here vary from £400 to over £800 if DMF required
Nothing to blame yourself for, clutch isn't a routine service item, there's nothing to do until they fail.
Probably not related to the slave cylinder
If this is the first clutch change it's done well
Only difficulty might be if input shaft has play. I'm not sure how many garages would be interested in pulling the gearbox apart to replace the bearing.
They might prefer to just put it back or recommend replacement with a reconditioned box.
The noise could be anything, might not be related to the clutch at all.
Is it always there or only certain times, over bumps, on left or right turns, does it change with road speed or engine speed?
